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Elbowed Out at Masson Lees

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 PaulTanton 10 Jun 2020

This looks like a death route. A big lump of rock has fallen out of it. 
maybe the bolts should be removed? 

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 Mowglee 10 Jun 2020
In reply to PaulTanton:

Elbowed Out (6b)

Looks like there was a big chunk (100kg-ish) came out yesterday and also another coffe-table sized block about a month ago. Another line which should never have been bolted. I may tape up the first couple of bolts next time I'm there - or take a battery powered grinder if there's a consensus. The penultimate bolt is placed in a massive loose (looking) block. It's lucky that the two recent rockfalls didn't kill the belayer; next time may not be so lucky.

Post edited at 09:15
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In reply to Mowglee:

Do it. 

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 flaneur 10 Jun 2020
In reply to PaulTanton:

I'd suggest discussing (polite version) this with the developer but, if it is who I think it is, he has other considerations right now. It sounds like debolting is in everyone's interest.

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 PaulTanton 10 Jun 2020
In reply to flaneur:
maybe the exceptionally dry weather this spring has caused the mud to losses it’s grip on the rubble in the crack. So the route is now in a different state to when it was first done.

I put the post on to make people aware of the dangerous state of the rock. 
 

cant wait for the Welsh lockdown to be released and the Red Wall ban to come off so we can get on some good rock 😀😀😀

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In reply to Mowglee:

>  I may tape up the first couple of bolts next time I'm there - or take a battery powered grinder if there's a consensus.

Do the former. The latter isn't doing a proper de-bolting job.

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 Callum Smith 10 Jun 2020
In reply to Mowglee:

Could you just take the hangers off?

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 Mowglee 10 Jun 2020
In reply to Toerag:

Fair enough, that's much easier! I'll write a note to stick on there until someone with the right kit can sort it.

In reply to Caullum Smith:

They're glue-ins.

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 Ian Milward 17 Jun 2020
In reply to PaulTanton:

Word had reached Gary about the state of this route so on his behalf I've been down it today and removed approx. two and a half fridges' worth of rock that could be loosened by pulling on it. (Yeah, I know!) The remaining line is probably no less stable than when first climbed but as will be glaringly apparent from a look up the route, it isn't an inviting prospect and is now very dirty at the bottom. The staples are still in. I've added a similar comment to the Rockfax description; currently with the crag moderator. The skull and crossbones I've scrawled at the bottom might help inform aspirant thrill seekers.

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 PaulTanton 28 Jun 2020
In reply to Ian Milward:

hi Ian. I was there last Wednesday eve. Seen all the crap that’s come out of the route. Yep, it still looks pretty dangerous 

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 C Witter 29 Jun 2020
In reply to PaulTanton:

How does such an obviously awful route have so many logs? It looks like a sand castle.

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In reply to C Witter:

Im afraid I was misguided enough to lead this in 2010 but only to get clips out of the adjacent Hilti Sound System which I'd failed on. It was pretty dreadful then. 

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