UKC

ummmm, so can anybody explain how the European/british way of rating climbs works? What would, say, a 5.10 climb translate into with your system?
Thanks much!
Meg

In reply to Meg DS: See this:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/databases/crags/comptable.html

In reply to Carnage:
wow, what a quick reply. Sweet, thanks! I'm printing it up right now....

In reply to Meg DS:

or this for a printable PDF version and some explanation text - http://www.rockfax.com/publications/grades.html

In reply to Meg DS:

Hey Meg remember one thing when you say 5.10 in most grading systems including your own 5.10 covers about two or three grades. Always annoyed me about climbing in the US when people said they "climbed 5.11" it could mean 11a, 11b, 11c, 11d

In reply to Meg DS:

here are some more

as a standard reference 5.10c is E2 5c is Aust 21


http://www.users.bigpond.com/rowonga/climbinggrades.htm

http://www.sydneyrockies.org.au/gradecharts.htm

In reply to nz Cragrat:
But a 5.9 1960s offwidth can seem like E3 to many Brits.

In reply to John Alcock: I would have thought E4 myself and not just to Brits but then one could also grade it VS (Yorkshire) and be about right!!

In reply to nz Cragrat:

The official US - UK grade conversion chart:

5.9 (sport route) ............................... VS 5a
5.9 (finger or hand crack) ............... HVS 5a
5.9 (fist crack) ................................... E1 5b
5.9 (Yosemite face climb) .............. E2 5b
5.9 (Tuolomne slab) ....................... E3 5b
5.9 (offwidth) ..................................... E3 5c
5.9 (desert sandstone chimney)... E4 5c
5.9 (Canadian alpine 5.9 A2) ......... Anything you like

In reply to duncan:

Oh how right you are..

"The Terror, The Terror"

In reply to duncan:

About right. Can you do one for 5.10 then?

In reply to nz Cragrat:

ohhhhhhhh nooooo

The thought of having to do another desert sandstone 5.10 chimney or off-width has made my palms go all sweaty....

In reply to ChrisJD: talking of which, have you tried the kor-ingalls on castleton tower in utah? serious fun! the chimney is two-moves-up-one-down due to it's walls being smooth and shiny calcite...hilarious!
cheers!

In reply to Meg DS: and as if there weren't enough already...
http://www.mec.ca/Main/content_text.jsp?CONTENT%3C%3Ecnt_id=570517&FOLD...

In reply to martin k:

That very chimney is one of the things that brings the sweaty palms back......

That spinning bolt.....

How deep can a man get into a chimney....!

Great memories

In reply to Meg DS:

The MEC website has a couple of major discrepancies eg HVS is around 5.9 (not Yosemite) but 18/19 in Oz grades compared to 15 which is Easy VS (not Yorkshire) - it is so so hard to get them all right it seems. The old one in Fyffes Handbook of Mountaineering seems pretty good on the whole.

In reply to duncan:


Didn't Will Gadd originally grade one of his multipitch M10s - 5.9 A2? So it might work out at about Scottish X,10!