UKC

Looking to do a Fr 8a int he Peak but not sure which one to have a go at? I've heard Sissy could be good? Any others?
Cheers, Mike

In reply to wolverine:

The Sissy IMHO is a tricky one for 8a.

Depends what your good at. If your more a boulderer then Hot Fun Closing at Rubicon is a good one. As is Out Of My Tree and Rattle And Hump.

In reply to wolverine:


Aargh...nearly drove me insane!

Mick

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

In Brine at the Tor is a good one if you're into slightly longer routes.

Free Monster at water cum Jolly cornice is meant to be good and stays shady in the summer months, and dry in the rain, altho its prob still a bit wet now.

Powerplant at the Cornice is also meant to be brilliant and its apparently drier more often than a lot of other stuff down there.

In reply to Mick Ward:

Haha, maybe that route falls into the category of one that is good to have done, rather than to do!

In reply to wolverine: Thormen's Moth, Dovedale area. Amazing if it's dry

In reply to wolverine:
My strengths are crimping up steep (not too steep) walls. Would prefer something shorter.
Any others?
Cheers, Mike

In reply to wolverine:

Let the Tribe Increase at Rubicon is pretty cruxy (V8 boulder problem on crux) - you have to lock a crimp nearly down to your waist but its only 3/4 bolts long. The rest of it is really good (the route used to be 7c+ before a hold fell off the crux).

The Dangerous Brothers also at Rubicon is only 3 bolts long and also, not surprisingly, has some tough crimping.

In reply to wolverine:
Sissy sounds like a good bet.
Unleashing for something abit longer/crimpier.

In reply to wolverine:

Salar - Short (ie: two moves), and crimpy.

However, it's painful and a bit shit really.

I've had a play on HFC and found that to be good. R&H's good if you can do the moves... I got shutdown by the move from the jug, so any beta for that is appreciated!

In reply to MattDTC:

Sissy isn't a great first 8a unless you want a bit of a fight. The moves are hard, its tricky to clip one bolt, and is generally not easy. Certainly no chance of it being downgrade so would fit into the good first HARD 8a camp.

In reply to Oli:

Yes, I'd agree its not the greatest route around, although worth doing all the same. Its also IMHO 7c+ rather than 8a, just to be a bit controversial ;0)

In reply to teddy:
- Sissy is good, but tough for 8a.
- Let the Tribe increase has one very filthy move, which IMO spoils rest of route
- Hot Fun Closing, good one, bouldery start then crimpy bulge with mega rest between
- In Brine, relatively short hard section so doesn't feel that long really as 70% of route is easy
- Freemonster, the best route of the lot but not your prefered style....
- Powerplant, good route, but same as above

In reply to north country boy:
Bodybuilder looks good. Anyone done it care to comment?

In reply to mrjonathanr:

I haven't done it but its only had 2 ascents AFAIK - Mark and Steve Mac. Its also quite a tough 8a+ rather than 8a. I had a brief play on the crux moves 2 years ago and they seemed very hard. Plus you have to do a French 7b to get to the Body Machine rest before the crux.

In reply to wolverine: Unleashing the wild Physique? Cheedale. Crimpy, not too steep and a great finishing sequence.

In reply to robert mirfin:

Good call.

In reply to robert mirfin: Mr Mirf! ...

Good call...

All well?

In reply to robert mirfin:


The whole cave was bone dry when I went for a look about a month ago, not a damp patch anywhere

In reply to teddy:
Cheers Ted.

In reply to wolverine:

What have you done so far that you've found ok? I suppose it'd be easier to make recommendations then otherwise you'll just end up with a list of top 8a's in the Peak as opposed to good 'first' 8a's for you. Where you live is also important, as if you're going to seige it then travelling two hours a session to get to Thor's Cave (although I have to agree that Thormen's should be high on your tick list, my favourite british sport route by a considerable margin only to find it wet is going to be a little disheartening!

I think the Sissy is hard, reasonably polished and you may often find other parties on it. On the plus side, the climbing is quite good and you won't struggle to get tons of beta on it.