This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Word reaches me that a certain Female American Bouldering Superstar spent all of Sunday top-roping White Wand, only to fail to lead it.
Tee hee.
Evidently V10 can’t be that hard, then. I mean, my dog’s done White Wand. Forepaws around the arete, a bit of a scrabble, and up. About D2.
By contrast, I met a couple of Americans on Cloggy on Saturday who’d just done Great Wall, second day of their road trip. I thought that was pretty stout. North-facing, slightly damp, slightly green, slightly runout UK routes are a bit of an away fixture when you’re used to Indian Creek. I don’t think they were punters, mind. They had some positively disturbing things to say about hard aid climbing – see the leapfrogging-copperheads thread.
And I have to preserve one line. Part of our team was a lesbian couple, and at some point in the pub one of the Americans told the well-known story about Jim Collins soloing the Naked Edge because his girlfriend had left him.
Lesbian A was clearly impressed. “Wow”, she said, and looked thoughtful. “She must have been ama-a-azing.”
Tee hee.
Evidently V10 can’t be that hard, then. I mean, my dog’s done White Wand. Forepaws around the arete, a bit of a scrabble, and up. About D2.
By contrast, I met a couple of Americans on Cloggy on Saturday who’d just done Great Wall, second day of their road trip. I thought that was pretty stout. North-facing, slightly damp, slightly green, slightly runout UK routes are a bit of an away fixture when you’re used to Indian Creek. I don’t think they were punters, mind. They had some positively disturbing things to say about hard aid climbing – see the leapfrogging-copperheads thread.
And I have to preserve one line. Part of our team was a lesbian couple, and at some point in the pub one of the Americans told the well-known story about Jim Collins soloing the Naked Edge because his girlfriend had left him.
Lesbian A was clearly impressed. “Wow”, she said, and looked thoughtful. “She must have been ama-a-azing.”
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
lol!
I can well believe the White wand story. On a personal note, it may have given me the courage I needed to get a top-rope out for the thing
I left a note about torture on the BEAST thread....
lol!
I can well believe the White wand story. On a personal note, it may have given me the courage I needed to get a top-rope out for the thing
I left a note about torture on the BEAST thread....
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
Wow. Were they alright without draught cranberry juice?
> By contrast, I met a couple of Americans on Cloggy on Saturday who’d just done Great Wall, second day of their road trip.
Wow. Were they alright without draught cranberry juice?
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
LOL @ Miss R.
I thought grit was supposed to count as mere highballs to them??
LOL @ Miss R.
I thought grit was supposed to count as mere highballs to them??
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
Headpointing is as much if not more about convinicing yourself you are not going to fall off as doing the moves...obviously not an experienced headpointer.
I too have been impressed with visiting Americans in the peak. Friendly attitude and no-nonsense typified by the guy who onsighted Goliath becasue it looked like a nice offwidth. Most brits avoid routes like that and even if strong enough often layback it.
Headpointing is as much if not more about convinicing yourself you are not going to fall off as doing the moves...obviously not an experienced headpointer.
I too have been impressed with visiting Americans in the peak. Friendly attitude and no-nonsense typified by the guy who onsighted Goliath becasue it looked like a nice offwidth. Most brits avoid routes like that and even if strong enough often layback it.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
Probably true. I was around that area on Sunday and a group of people (including a very competent-looking female climber) were all top-roping it for a while, I didn't notice any of them leading it.
And, sorry to highjack your thread, but:
I was rather distressed to see that (what appeared to be) the same group of people went on to top-rope the Archangel.
Actually, the distressing thing is not that they were trying to top-rope it but that one of their number repeatedly failed and slithered down the arete in a way calculated to remove texture.
Shouldn't these people know better?
Probably true. I was around that area on Sunday and a group of people (including a very competent-looking female climber) were all top-roping it for a while, I didn't notice any of them leading it.
And, sorry to highjack your thread, but:
I was rather distressed to see that (what appeared to be) the same group of people went on to top-rope the Archangel.
Actually, the distressing thing is not that they were trying to top-rope it but that one of their number repeatedly failed and slithered down the arete in a way calculated to remove texture.
Shouldn't these people know better?
In reply to Wan:
We where there aswell, most of the time around Breadline
We where there aswell, most of the time around Breadline
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
Midgets, you scumbag, I thought we had a date. How am I going to get my gear back now?
Mind you, at least I now have the tactical advantage. If I flash it, be sure you’ll hear about it. If I don’t, well, never mind, perhaps I’ll flash it next time….….
Tobyfk, not only were they OK without draught cranberry juice, but they even said that they thought the British grading system was superior to their own. Extraordinary.
Fiend: I think they thought so too. Doesn’t look like this particular crowd could walk the walk.
Offwidth: ‘obviously not an experienced headpointer’. Hah!!!
Wan: How pathetic. This lady’s a global superstar in the minds of some and she can’t even climb f*cking E3. If that’s the best they can do I wish they’d just piss off back home and stick to polishing up Midnight Lightning.
Midgets, you scumbag, I thought we had a date. How am I going to get my gear back now?
Mind you, at least I now have the tactical advantage. If I flash it, be sure you’ll hear about it. If I don’t, well, never mind, perhaps I’ll flash it next time….….
Tobyfk, not only were they OK without draught cranberry juice, but they even said that they thought the British grading system was superior to their own. Extraordinary.
Fiend: I think they thought so too. Doesn’t look like this particular crowd could walk the walk.
Offwidth: ‘obviously not an experienced headpointer’. Hah!!!
Wan: How pathetic. This lady’s a global superstar in the minds of some and she can’t even climb f*cking E3. If that’s the best they can do I wish they’d just piss off back home and stick to polishing up Midnight Lightning.
In reply to Adam Lincoln: Were you at Burbage South on Saturday? Having a go on Braille Trail?
In reply to Adam Lincoln: You didn't wander down to the Tank boulder, do a traverse in trainers, then head back to the crag did you?
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
So what's your point? Are you suggesting that she's really a bit crap cos she didn't solo White Wand? Or that she can't really climb V10, or White Wand is harder than V10? Or that it's a good idea to laugh at people who don't solo a route after top-roping it? Or that people who can solo White Wand are somehow superior to dedicated boulderers who haven't? Or that people who climb Great Wall are great and people who top-rope routes are pathetic?
The only conclusion I've come to from your post is that you're a bit of an idiot.
So what's your point? Are you suggesting that she's really a bit crap cos she didn't solo White Wand? Or that she can't really climb V10, or White Wand is harder than V10? Or that it's a good idea to laugh at people who don't solo a route after top-roping it? Or that people who can solo White Wand are somehow superior to dedicated boulderers who haven't? Or that people who climb Great Wall are great and people who top-rope routes are pathetic?
The only conclusion I've come to from your post is that you're a bit of an idiot.
In reply to Naomi:
Yep! That was me... Sorry was that you, didnt say hello, sorry... Didnt recognise you...
Yep! That was me... Sorry was that you, didnt say hello, sorry... Didnt recognise you...
In reply to JonC:
Yup, and its suprising how big the holds are on it! Need to spend another day on it i reckon...
Yup, and its suprising how big the holds are on it! Need to spend another day on it i reckon...
In reply to Adam Lincoln: Thought you looked familiar - will speak next time. Didn't like to just say "errrrr are you Adam?" in case you thought I was some kind of wierdo stalker. Cos I'm not, honest....... fa la la la la
In reply to jp: Not that John needs the input of MLearned friend to defend him but I'd say the only person who comes accross as a dunce is, well work it out for yourself.
In reply to jp:
Yes.
Different. She evidently finds even doing it at E3 or so harder than at any rate some V10s.
>Or that it's a good idea to laugh at people who don't solo a route after top-roping it?
Definitely. Jeez, man! You never taken the piss in your time?
>Or that people who can solo White Wand are somehow superior to dedicated boulderers who haven't?
Different. While pointing to the fact that the I'm-a-global-superstar market rather overrates those who can't.
Well, I certainly think people who are prepared to go abroad and sample the best of the local climbing in the local style, at a lower garde if necessary, deserve respect, yes.
and people who top-rope routes are pathetic?
It's pathetic to toprope White Wand. Correct.
Read it again slowly. You can't expect to take ideas like piss-taking in all at once.
> (In reply to johncoxmysteriously)
>
> So what's your point? Are you suggesting that she's really a bit crap cos she didn't solo White Wand?
>
> So what's your point? Are you suggesting that she's really a bit crap cos she didn't solo White Wand?
Yes.
> Or that she can't really climb V10, or White Wand is harder than V10?
Different. She evidently finds even doing it at E3 or so harder than at any rate some V10s.
>Or that it's a good idea to laugh at people who don't solo a route after top-roping it?
Definitely. Jeez, man! You never taken the piss in your time?
>Or that people who can solo White Wand are somehow superior to dedicated boulderers who haven't?
Different. While pointing to the fact that the I'm-a-global-superstar market rather overrates those who can't.
> Or that people who climb Great Wall are great
Well, I certainly think people who are prepared to go abroad and sample the best of the local climbing in the local style, at a lower garde if necessary, deserve respect, yes.
and people who top-rope routes are pathetic?
It's pathetic to toprope White Wand. Correct.
>
> The only conclusion I've come to from your post is that you're a bit of an idiot.
> The only conclusion I've come to from your post is that you're a bit of an idiot.
Read it again slowly. You can't expect to take ideas like piss-taking in all at once.
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
Good luck. Very impressive route from the bottom - and that's where I'm staying (of course).
Good luck. Very impressive route from the bottom - and that's where I'm staying (of course).
In reply to Offwidth:
I think climbing in trainers polishes the rock quicker than rock shoes. It's very normal on moves in trainers to get some foot slippage on moves, the way you use them tends to mean you smear features rather than get a toe into them, and finally the grips on them pull little bits of rock off. I think climbing in trainers or normal shoes is a bad thing especially on single pitch routes.
I think climbing in trainers polishes the rock quicker than rock shoes. It's very normal on moves in trainers to get some foot slippage on moves, the way you use them tends to mean you smear features rather than get a toe into them, and finally the grips on them pull little bits of rock off. I think climbing in trainers or normal shoes is a bad thing especially on single pitch routes.
In reply to Adam Lincoln: Now ure talking...
Amazed.. that was mz rands was it on white wand. Shes a bit ugly close up int she.
If id have known it was her whilst boulderin with her n her fella, I think I could have thought of something better to say than, "what a bollocks, fukcin shit problem, muther fcukin, sweaty crap... oooouch" as I come flyin of the storm.
Then only two minutes later to watch her fella walk up it.
She did must say look a bit shakey on white wand, she needs a bit of English psycho, this route is a like my fella, beat the bastard into submission... thing going. I reckon she be right then.
Amazed.. that was mz rands was it on white wand. Shes a bit ugly close up int she.
If id have known it was her whilst boulderin with her n her fella, I think I could have thought of something better to say than, "what a bollocks, fukcin shit problem, muther fcukin, sweaty crap... oooouch" as I come flyin of the storm.
Then only two minutes later to watch her fella walk up it.
She did must say look a bit shakey on white wand, she needs a bit of English psycho, this route is a like my fella, beat the bastard into submission... thing going. I reckon she be right then.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
I thought the whole fun of piss taking was to do it in front of the person you're having a go at and entering into some banter, not to start slagging them off to all and sundry when they're not around to defend themselves. You're original post came across as mealy mouthed carping. I though we were past the time when we stopped this jingoistic crap of looking down on johnny foreginer just because they don't climb on grit. Reading what you've written you just seem a little smug that this route has put this jumped up foregin girl in her place, on another day she might have onsighted it without breaking sweat.
>>She evidently finds even doing it at E3 or so harder than at any rate some V10s.
And you're evidence for that is......? Ever had a bad day?
I thought the whole fun of piss taking was to do it in front of the person you're having a go at and entering into some banter, not to start slagging them off to all and sundry when they're not around to defend themselves. You're original post came across as mealy mouthed carping. I though we were past the time when we stopped this jingoistic crap of looking down on johnny foreginer just because they don't climb on grit. Reading what you've written you just seem a little smug that this route has put this jumped up foregin girl in her place, on another day she might have onsighted it without breaking sweat.
>>She evidently finds even doing it at E3 or so harder than at any rate some V10s.
And you're evidence for that is......? Ever had a bad day?
In reply to Tyler: see me latir about your grammer, you're indeed, D-.
Anyway bloody septics, one moment font is crawling with the blighters next thing they're in blighty.
If we hadn't sent over german mercanaries they'd still be a bloody colony,
harumph, splutter *foams at mouth*
Anyway bloody septics, one moment font is crawling with the blighters next thing they're in blighty.
If we hadn't sent over german mercanaries they'd still be a bloody colony,
harumph, splutter *foams at mouth*
In reply to L Applat:
Yes, noticed that as soon as I hit submit but didn't think anyone would be pedantic enough to make a big deal of it, especially not someone notorious for committing more literary crimes than Jeffery Archer. Anyway if you can be bothered re-read with:
"I though we had stopped this jingoistic crap" or "I though we were past the time when wehad stopped this jingoistic crap"
Yes, noticed that as soon as I hit submit but didn't think anyone would be pedantic enough to make a big deal of it, especially not someone notorious for committing more literary crimes than Jeffery Archer. Anyway if you can be bothered re-read with:
"I though we had stopped this jingoistic crap" or "I though we were past the time when wehad stopped this jingoistic crap"
In reply to Tyler:
I'm with you on this one mate don't judge others by your own rules and if you feel you need to then keep that to your self..... All climbers whatever style and competence have just as much right to enjoy themselves how they see fit on the rocks as do any other climbers. What business is this of yours anyway John ? If the internation community decide some ones a shit hot climber is that their problem ? I think not. You should only take risks your happy with.
I'm with you on this one mate don't judge others by your own rules and if you feel you need to then keep that to your self..... All climbers whatever style and competence have just as much right to enjoy themselves how they see fit on the rocks as do any other climbers. What business is this of yours anyway John ? If the internation community decide some ones a shit hot climber is that their problem ? I think not. You should only take risks your happy with.
In reply to Tyler:
>not to start slagging them off to all and sundry when they're not around to defend themselves<
Believe me, if I had the opportunity to take the piss out of this lady face-to-face I would. And in any event I think you will probably find that some of her publicists at least read this forum.
>just because they don't climb on grit
You are failing to distinguish between 'don't climb on grit' and 'do climb on grit, import their own techniques for beating into submission routes which the locals include in an evening's soloing round, and STILL fail'. If you can't see the humour in the latter, then there's no hope.
>on another day she might have onsighted it without breaking sweat.
Since her first move was to set up a top-rope, I don't quite see how she'd have managed that. Or are you suggesting that on another day she would have approached it differently?
>not to start slagging them off to all and sundry when they're not around to defend themselves<
Believe me, if I had the opportunity to take the piss out of this lady face-to-face I would. And in any event I think you will probably find that some of her publicists at least read this forum.
>just because they don't climb on grit
You are failing to distinguish between 'don't climb on grit' and 'do climb on grit, import their own techniques for beating into submission routes which the locals include in an evening's soloing round, and STILL fail'. If you can't see the humour in the latter, then there's no hope.
>on another day she might have onsighted it without breaking sweat.
Since her first move was to set up a top-rope, I don't quite see how she'd have managed that. Or are you suggesting that on another day she would have approached it differently?
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
Hey John
Were the two Americans named Brad and Mark? If so, their smooth performance on Great Wall was probably helped by the spending a bunch of time in Eldorado Canyon, which is the closest thing to UK style climbing over here.
Im psyched to hear their roadtrip started so well
Thanks for the news
Andy
Hey John
Were the two Americans named Brad and Mark? If so, their smooth performance on Great Wall was probably helped by the spending a bunch of time in Eldorado Canyon, which is the closest thing to UK style climbing over here.
Im psyched to hear their roadtrip started so well
Thanks for the news
Andy
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
So really this is just another anti-top-roping thread. What's your problem? Were you traumatised by a top-roping incident when you were young? And why do you feel the need to reinforce your self-esteem by ridiculing others? I can only assume you've got some deep-rooted insecurities.
So really this is just another anti-top-roping thread. What's your problem? Were you traumatised by a top-roping incident when you were young? And why do you feel the need to reinforce your self-esteem by ridiculing others? I can only assume you've got some deep-rooted insecurities.
In reply to jp:
>I can only assume you've got some deep-rooted insecurities.
Name me an interesting person who doesn't. You don't count.
>I can only assume you've got some deep-rooted insecurities.
Name me an interesting person who doesn't. You don't count.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
lol yeah I'd go along with that one John.....
> (In reply to jp)
>
> >I can only assume you've got some deep-rooted insecurities.
>
> Name me an interesting person who doesn't. You don't count.
>
> >I can only assume you've got some deep-rooted insecurities.
>
> Name me an interesting person who doesn't. You don't count.
lol yeah I'd go along with that one John.....
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
so you think you are interesting? really???
so you think you are interesting? really???
In reply to user profile:
I can tell you sumting for nuffing your user profile certainly isn't.....................
Sometimes I wonder how many differing user profiles individual RT users actaully have.
I can tell you sumting for nuffing your user profile certainly isn't.....................
Sometimes I wonder how many differing user profiles individual RT users actaully have.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
Woah there, guys. I wasn't saying that the Lady in question was the one failing on Archangel, just that it appeared to be the same party.
I just thought that if they climb as hard as has been suggested they ought to have been big enough to give up after a few goes and stop polishing the route. Off-hand, I can't think off any routes that you could say it was more important not to polish, given almost the whole climb has no real footholds.
Woah there, guys. I wasn't saying that the Lady in question was the one failing on Archangel, just that it appeared to be the same party.
I just thought that if they climb as hard as has been suggested they ought to have been big enough to give up after a few goes and stop polishing the route. Off-hand, I can't think off any routes that you could say it was more important not to polish, given almost the whole climb has no real footholds.
In reply to the lot of you:
Excellent stuff!
There hasn't been a good old "that's you that is" and "I know you are, but what am I?" style thread for a while now. It's nice to see its return.
Excellent stuff!
There hasn't been a good old "that's you that is" and "I know you are, but what am I?" style thread for a while now. It's nice to see its return.
In reply to Wan:
I agree with this point however that on any route if you take more than a few falls whatever style of ascent you should stop and find a problem of the same type but easier and come back to it, this includes boudler problems. Repeatedly falling must damage the rock pretty fast.
I agree with this point however that on any route if you take more than a few falls whatever style of ascent you should stop and find a problem of the same type but easier and come back to it, this includes boudler problems. Repeatedly falling must damage the rock pretty fast.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
Warning: totally off topic. Don't read.
Don't worry John, we still have a date. I want to come and laugh.
> (In reply to johncoxmysteriously)
>
> Midgets, you scumbag, I thought we had a date. How am I going to get my gear back now?
>
>
> Midgets, you scumbag, I thought we had a date. How am I going to get my gear back now?
>
Warning: totally off topic. Don't read.
Don't worry John, we still have a date. I want to come and laugh.
In reply to Woker:
So what's the limit? Some problems take me a couple of attempts - is that ok? How about if a problem takes me 20 attempts? I've tried some problems 20 times in a day, for several days and still not done them- is that ok? Then again I've done some easy problems 30 or 40 times in total - is that too many? Should I never climb these problems again, having used up my quota?
There are no rules in climbing, do what you want and don't tell others what to do (excluding deliberate vandalism).
> this includes boulder problems
So what's the limit? Some problems take me a couple of attempts - is that ok? How about if a problem takes me 20 attempts? I've tried some problems 20 times in a day, for several days and still not done them- is that ok? Then again I've done some easy problems 30 or 40 times in total - is that too many? Should I never climb these problems again, having used up my quota?
There are no rules in climbing, do what you want and don't tell others what to do (excluding deliberate vandalism).
In reply to jp:
deliberate vandalism as against accidental vandalism
deliberate vandalism as against accidental vandalism
In reply to jp:
Sorry I meant I think you should, not you should, obviously this is your decision, I thought people would take that forgranted, do you normally do what others tell you then ?
Sorry I meant I think you should, not you should, obviously this is your decision, I thought people would take that forgranted, do you normally do what others tell you then ?
In reply to jp:
Now replying to your actual post without the piss take. Well if it's already a polished night mare and no one seems to like the problem much anyonme I suppose polishing it more don't matter. As for trying clasic problems lots of times, I think you'll prolly find you improve quicker by seeking out lots of climbs close to that climb but a bit easier, so you practise similar moves staying on the rock than practising how to fall off. As for ethics boudlering prolly damages the rock faster than any other type of climbing done by people who climb regulalrly, when properly set up, as I've argued in the past, and I do own a bouldering mat by the way, so am a 'boulderer'. It's your consience not mine and is ultimately your choice.
Now replying to your actual post without the piss take. Well if it's already a polished night mare and no one seems to like the problem much anyonme I suppose polishing it more don't matter. As for trying clasic problems lots of times, I think you'll prolly find you improve quicker by seeking out lots of climbs close to that climb but a bit easier, so you practise similar moves staying on the rock than practising how to fall off. As for ethics boudlering prolly damages the rock faster than any other type of climbing done by people who climb regulalrly, when properly set up, as I've argued in the past, and I do own a bouldering mat by the way, so am a 'boulderer'. It's your consience not mine and is ultimately your choice.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
>>If you can't see the humour in the latter, then there's no hope.
agreed, nothing better than a bit of schadenfreud (sp! you know what I mean) but I just think a wry smile and a chuckle with your mates might be a bit more chartiable. what i really object to is the implication that all foregners are wusses and can't climb just because they can't be tossed fiddling with wires and shuffling around on easy trad climbs.
>>If you can't see the humour in the latter, then there's no hope.
agreed, nothing better than a bit of schadenfreud (sp! you know what I mean) but I just think a wry smile and a chuckle with your mates might be a bit more chartiable. what i really object to is the implication that all foregners are wusses and can't climb just because they can't be tossed fiddling with wires and shuffling around on easy trad climbs.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously: 'Part of our team was a lesbian couple' - may I be permitted a brief 'I told you so'?
In reply to Woker:
Isn't the climber in question a professional climber? If so, she makes a living out of climbing by selling her ability as a climber and her personality. Just as David Beckham does for football to a much bigger market for far more money. If pro climber falls short, then we have a pop, as we would at any brand that is supposed to be something to aspire to/admire/want, but is found to be flawed in some way. They’re not being paid to climb just because they deserve it. If you’re a 'personality', you’ve got to expect criticism, along with the admiration.
> (In reply to Tyler)
> All climbers whatever style and competence have just as much right to enjoy themselves how they see fit on the rocks as do any other climbers. What business is this of yours anyway John ? If the internation community decide some ones a shit hot climber is that their problem ? I think not.
> All climbers whatever style and competence have just as much right to enjoy themselves how they see fit on the rocks as do any other climbers. What business is this of yours anyway John ? If the internation community decide some ones a shit hot climber is that their problem ? I think not.
Isn't the climber in question a professional climber? If so, she makes a living out of climbing by selling her ability as a climber and her personality. Just as David Beckham does for football to a much bigger market for far more money. If pro climber falls short, then we have a pop, as we would at any brand that is supposed to be something to aspire to/admire/want, but is found to be flawed in some way. They’re not being paid to climb just because they deserve it. If you’re a 'personality', you’ve got to expect criticism, along with the admiration.
In reply to Andy Donson:
The very same.
They told us that you had said "trust no-one" with regards to beta about routes, so of course we felt we had to sandbag them mercilessly. Anyhow, Positron would only be 5.10a if it was straight off the ground wouldn't it?
The very same.
They told us that you had said "trust no-one" with regards to beta about routes, so of course we felt we had to sandbag them mercilessly. Anyhow, Positron would only be 5.10a if it was straight off the ground wouldn't it?
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
John...she's got a bad finger at the moment.
I look forward to your ascent of Plain High Drifter V11, Soul Slinger V9 and countless other technical high-balls done without top rope practice.....with many spine-crushing falls taken.
Oh and PS.....Lisa did Midnight Lightning without top rope practice....the first female ascent not to use a a top rope.
Mick
John...she's got a bad finger at the moment.
I look forward to your ascent of Plain High Drifter V11, Soul Slinger V9 and countless other technical high-balls done without top rope practice.....with many spine-crushing falls taken.
Oh and PS.....Lisa did Midnight Lightning without top rope practice....the first female ascent not to use a a top rope.
Mick
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
I think combining the new information revealed in Andy and Duncan's posts we can guess that 'praise E grades and they'll love you for it' may have been another piece of cultural beta passed on to these Boulderites ....
> Tobyfk, not only were they OK without draught cranberry juice, but they even said that they thought the British grading system was superior to their own. Extraordinary.
I think combining the new information revealed in Andy and Duncan's posts we can guess that 'praise E grades and they'll love you for it' may have been another piece of cultural beta passed on to these Boulderites ....
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:
I think there should be a Rocktalk whipround to fund a Cox visit to Bishop. Must be more than a few people who'd part with a few quid to have John eat humble pie!
I think there should be a Rocktalk whipround to fund a Cox visit to Bishop. Must be more than a few people who'd part with a few quid to have John eat humble pie!
In reply to tobyfk:
Ironically, you have been out boozing with one of these so called cranberry crazed yanks. Where does the whole cranberry thing come from anyway? I shall have to add it to my list of US stereotypes.
So, did you get a job?
> I think combining the new information revealed in Andy and Duncan's posts we can guess that 'praise E grades and they'll love you for it' may have been another piece of cultural beta passed on to these Boulderites ....
Ironically, you have been out boozing with one of these so called cranberry crazed yanks. Where does the whole cranberry thing come from anyway? I shall have to add it to my list of US stereotypes.
So, did you get a job?
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA and tobyfk: As Sron said, its nice to see a hero struggle occasionally, and I dont think they mind the occasional ribbing if they try something above their current ability (not the word current) and dont succeed.
And I will happily eat fat chunks of humble pie if you pay for me too.
And I will happily eat fat chunks of humble pie if you pay for me too.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
Watch the "High Life" video for Ms Rands doing plenty of very scary highballs before you step up so quick to slag her off.
Watch the "High Life" video for Ms Rands doing plenty of very scary highballs before you step up so quick to slag her off.
In reply to Andy D:
About 75% of the way through this thread. Don't read it too close to bedtime or you'll wake up slumped on your keyboard ....
http://www.rockfax.com/rocktalk/t.php?t=24508
That would be Brad, right?
Very tactless to ask about jobs.
About 75% of the way through this thread. Don't read it too close to bedtime or you'll wake up slumped on your keyboard ....
http://www.rockfax.com/rocktalk/t.php?t=24508
That would be Brad, right?
Very tactless to ask about jobs.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
This is a fairly typical attitude. Good rock climber seen having an off-day (or injury day), Medoicre climber takes the piss....
par for the course really.....
M
> Word reaches me that a certain Female American Bouldering Superstar spent all of Sunday top-roping White Wand, only to fail to lead it. .....Tee hee.
This is a fairly typical attitude. Good rock climber seen having an off-day (or injury day), Medoicre climber takes the piss....
par for the course really.....
M
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:
If said good rock climber was having such an off day (so off that said V11 climber couldn't climb....uhhh WTF does E5 6a translate to? V3? V3 or so...), why was said good rock climber chucking a rope down something??
If said good rock climber was having such an off day (so off that said V11 climber couldn't climb....uhhh WTF does E5 6a translate to? V3? V3 or so...), why was said good rock climber chucking a rope down something??
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:
Of course you never speculate on nor discuss other climbers' behaviour do you mister Rockfax USA...
Of course you never speculate on nor discuss other climbers' behaviour do you mister Rockfax USA...
In reply to Fiend:
Oh I never said that Fiend, I just said it was "non of my business why "said good rock climber chucking a rope down something?"
.....excuse my short-hand response ......
M
Oh I never said that Fiend, I just said it was "non of my business why "said good rock climber chucking a rope down something?"
.....excuse my short-hand response ......
M
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:
>John...she's got a bad finger at the moment.
A bad FINGER. Oh, I see. That'll be why the poor love can't manage V3.
Tyler, didn't I tell you her publicists would be on to it?
And Mick, I hesitate to correct you, but did Lynn Hill not eventually do Midnight Lightning without a top-rope?
Come on, Mick. It would take a heart of stone not to laugh when a celebrity climber with a reputation for hard highballs, stoked tirelessly by yourself and your colleagues, comes over here, does her best to drag down to her level a classic midgrade testpiece regularly onsighted since 1977 or so even by mediocre climbers (how you flatter me!), and finds that actually her level is just that little bit lower. Surely you agree?
We'd sure as hell have heard about if she'd have managed to engineer an ascent, maybe even with a staged photo on this very site. So you'll just have to excuse those of us who don't think much of that side of things if we laugh up our sleeves when she doesn't.
As for groups scrabbling on Archangel, well. It's not OK if you're on an SPA course, and it ain't even OK if your mate's famous.
>John...she's got a bad finger at the moment.
A bad FINGER. Oh, I see. That'll be why the poor love can't manage V3.
Tyler, didn't I tell you her publicists would be on to it?
And Mick, I hesitate to correct you, but did Lynn Hill not eventually do Midnight Lightning without a top-rope?
Come on, Mick. It would take a heart of stone not to laugh when a celebrity climber with a reputation for hard highballs, stoked tirelessly by yourself and your colleagues, comes over here, does her best to drag down to her level a classic midgrade testpiece regularly onsighted since 1977 or so even by mediocre climbers (how you flatter me!), and finds that actually her level is just that little bit lower. Surely you agree?
We'd sure as hell have heard about if she'd have managed to engineer an ascent, maybe even with a staged photo on this very site. So you'll just have to excuse those of us who don't think much of that side of things if we laugh up our sleeves when she doesn't.
As for groups scrabbling on Archangel, well. It's not OK if you're on an SPA course, and it ain't even OK if your mate's famous.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
You're making yourself look really foolish now. Name some V10's that you've done, then you can critisize - otherwise just shut up.
You're making yourself look really foolish now. Name some V10's that you've done, then you can critisize - otherwise just shut up.
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:
>This is a fairly typical attitude. Good rock climber seen >having an off-day (or injury day), Medoicre climber takes >the piss....
>par for the course really.....
Obviously. Be a sad day when THAT stops, don't you think?
Mind you, if you're injured, would you spend time (a) trying to do something that turns out to be too hard for you, or getting in some mileage on routes you can do? Tough call.
In reply to tobyfk:
I have to admit that Brad seemed relatively indifferent to the absence of cranberry juice. In fact his disgust on discovering that the South Stack caff didn't serve beer was palpable. ("What kinda establishment IS this?")
>This is a fairly typical attitude. Good rock climber seen >having an off-day (or injury day), Medoicre climber takes >the piss....
>par for the course really.....
Obviously. Be a sad day when THAT stops, don't you think?
Mind you, if you're injured, would you spend time (a) trying to do something that turns out to be too hard for you, or getting in some mileage on routes you can do? Tough call.
In reply to tobyfk:
I have to admit that Brad seemed relatively indifferent to the absence of cranberry juice. In fact his disgust on discovering that the South Stack caff didn't serve beer was palpable. ("What kinda establishment IS this?")
In reply to Tyler:
>what i really object to is the implication that all foregners are wusses and can't climb just because they can't be tossed fiddling with wires and shuffling around on easy trad climbs.
Did I really say that? Can you really get wires into White Wand? (where? where?)
>what i really object to is the implication that all foregners are wusses and can't climb just because they can't be tossed fiddling with wires and shuffling around on easy trad climbs.
Did I really say that? Can you really get wires into White Wand? (where? where?)
In reply to jp:
Why is that only someone who has done V10 be the only one qualified to comment? That really is a foolish proposition.
> (In reply to johncoxmysteriously)
> Name some V10's that you've done, then you can critisize - otherwise just shut up.
Why is that only someone who has done V10 be the only one qualified to comment? That really is a foolish proposition.
In reply to jp:
>Name some V10's that you've done
None. Climbing V10 doesn't mean you can do White Wand, and doing White Wand doesn't mean my dog can climb V10. As I believe I said, they're different.
Anyway, you seem to be criticising me. No doubt that's OK because doubtless you climb harder than me. But I assume I can rely upon your support next time someone who climbs even less well than me has a go at me, yes?
>Name some V10's that you've done
None. Climbing V10 doesn't mean you can do White Wand, and doing White Wand doesn't mean my dog can climb V10. As I believe I said, they're different.
Anyway, you seem to be criticising me. No doubt that's OK because doubtless you climb harder than me. But I assume I can rely upon your support next time someone who climbs even less well than me has a go at me, yes?
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
Poor love? You condescending tart John Cox.
Apparantly the bad finger is the reason why she isn't competing in the World Cups. I hope it gets better.
Yes of course...after top roping it. Lisa didn't top rope it.
There are no staged photos of LR on this site.
M
> (In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA)
>
> >John...she's got a bad finger at the moment.
>
> A bad FINGER. Oh, I see. That'll be why the poor love can't manage V3.
>
> >John...she's got a bad finger at the moment.
>
> A bad FINGER. Oh, I see. That'll be why the poor love can't manage V3.
Poor love? You condescending tart John Cox.
Apparantly the bad finger is the reason why she isn't competing in the World Cups. I hope it gets better.
> And Mick, I hesitate to correct you, but did Lynn Hill not eventually do Midnight Lightning without a top-rope?
Yes of course...after top roping it. Lisa didn't top rope it.
> even with a staged photo on this very site.
There are no staged photos of LR on this site.
M
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
I'm not criticising you - I'm just saying that we should let people get on with their climbing and not laugh at them or judge them. You're not doing that - you're laughing at someone for top-roping a route and failing. That's not very nice. Also I feel you should have some respect for people's achievements - the person in question is one of the best female boulderers ever, and failing on White Wand doesn't change that.
Live and let live.
I'm not criticising you - I'm just saying that we should let people get on with their climbing and not laugh at them or judge them. You're not doing that - you're laughing at someone for top-roping a route and failing. That's not very nice. Also I feel you should have some respect for people's achievements - the person in question is one of the best female boulderers ever, and failing on White Wand doesn't change that.
Live and let live.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
Very sad.
I was just pointing out your predictable reaction and how that situation is common. I wasn't attching any value to it either way.
You keep on laughing John at good climbers having a bad day.....and we'll keep on laughing at you for.......
M
> (In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA)
>
> >This is a fairly typical attitude. Good rock climber seen >having an off-day (or injury day), Medoicre climber takes >the piss....
>
> >par for the course really.....
>
> Obviously. Be a sad day when THAT stops, don't you think?
>
> >This is a fairly typical attitude. Good rock climber seen >having an off-day (or injury day), Medoicre climber takes >the piss....
>
> >par for the course really.....
>
> Obviously. Be a sad day when THAT stops, don't you think?
Very sad.
I was just pointing out your predictable reaction and how that situation is common. I wasn't attching any value to it either way.
You keep on laughing John at good climbers having a bad day.....and we'll keep on laughing at you for.......
M
In reply to jp:
Er, no JP. It's you that is looking foolish.
You don't need to be tha hardest climber in the world to have an opinion, especially on ethics. Otherwise we would all have to change our name, eat pies and drive a Rascale.
Do you fufill your own criterion for posting on the subject?
If not, perhaps you would like to stick to your guns by remaining silent.
Er, no JP. It's you that is looking foolish.
You don't need to be tha hardest climber in the world to have an opinion, especially on ethics. Otherwise we would all have to change our name, eat pies and drive a Rascale.
Do you fufill your own criterion for posting on the subject?
If not, perhaps you would like to stick to your guns by remaining silent.
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:
.......laughing at good climbers having a bad day...
regards,
Mick
> (In reply to johncoxmysteriously)
> You keep on laughing John at good climbers having a bad day.....and we'll keep on laughing at you for.......
.......laughing at good climbers having a bad day...
regards,
Mick
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:
>Yes of course...after top roping it. Lisa didn't top rope it.
Quite. But LR did not make the first female ascent without the use of a top-rope. Lynn Hill did that. You meant to say without pre-practice, or something like that. You know how important it is not to be seen shamelessly puffing your mate's achievements at the expense of others, don't you?
>There are no staged photos of LR on this site.
I didn't say there were. I said that perhaps there would have been one if she'd succeeded.
>Yes of course...after top roping it. Lisa didn't top rope it.
Quite. But LR did not make the first female ascent without the use of a top-rope. Lynn Hill did that. You meant to say without pre-practice, or something like that. You know how important it is not to be seen shamelessly puffing your mate's achievements at the expense of others, don't you?
>There are no staged photos of LR on this site.
I didn't say there were. I said that perhaps there would have been one if she'd succeeded.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
Do you really think that someone who's climbed numerous V10's needs to stage a photo of some poxy E3, and then needs the publicity of UKClimbing? You're massively over estimating the importance of White Wand and of this website.
> I said that perhaps there would have been one if she'd succeeded.
Do you really think that someone who's climbed numerous V10's needs to stage a photo of some poxy E3, and then needs the publicity of UKClimbing? You're massively over estimating the importance of White Wand and of this website.
In reply to jp:
>Also I feel you should have some respect for people's achievements - the person in question is one of the best female boulderers ever, and failing on White Wand doesn't change that.
You don't get it, do you? Of course she is. And of course it doesn't. But if she were the average tosser who top-ropes WW and doesn't lead it, then it wouldn't be funny, would it? Laughing at her IS one way of respecting her achievements.
In the same way, anyone with any sense laughed their knob off at Tim E and Airlie A's TV appearances. But put a video of me flailing on some VS on TV, and you'll find it doesn't sell.
[and if we're going to talk about respect, how about respecting the route?]
>Live and let live.
Are you for real? You a vicar or something?
>Also I feel you should have some respect for people's achievements - the person in question is one of the best female boulderers ever, and failing on White Wand doesn't change that.
You don't get it, do you? Of course she is. And of course it doesn't. But if she were the average tosser who top-ropes WW and doesn't lead it, then it wouldn't be funny, would it? Laughing at her IS one way of respecting her achievements.
In the same way, anyone with any sense laughed their knob off at Tim E and Airlie A's TV appearances. But put a video of me flailing on some VS on TV, and you'll find it doesn't sell.
[and if we're going to talk about respect, how about respecting the route?]
>Live and let live.
Are you for real? You a vicar or something?
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
I've just read this entire thread and at the risk of being shot down in flames, the point i got from it is as follows:
There are some bloody scary highballs in Bishop (i know this because i've been there and stood underneath some of them) and for someone who's got a stack of very hard, very high boulder problems in her resume, to top-rope something not nearly as high or as hard here and then not manage to do it is a bit crap, rest day/injured finger or not.
Fire away boys.
I've just read this entire thread and at the risk of being shot down in flames, the point i got from it is as follows:
There are some bloody scary highballs in Bishop (i know this because i've been there and stood underneath some of them) and for someone who's got a stack of very hard, very high boulder problems in her resume, to top-rope something not nearly as high or as hard here and then not manage to do it is a bit crap, rest day/injured finger or not.
Fire away boys.
In reply to jp:
JP, I don't know what she NEEDS. But I do know that this website regularly carries stories of her exploits, and I'm guessing would have carried pictures of this. If I were her sponsor I'd expect a little item with a picture of my kit, and I expect I'd get it too.
In any event, White Wand is E5, not E3, and it is not 'some poxy' E5 but a very fine route. If there is one serious point which I intended to make with this thread, it is that the skills required to climb V10 are not the same as those required to climb White Wand, and by that I don't mean bl**dy well headpointing it. As you said yourself, although obviously you didn't mean it, neither deserves more respect than the other.
JP, I don't know what she NEEDS. But I do know that this website regularly carries stories of her exploits, and I'm guessing would have carried pictures of this. If I were her sponsor I'd expect a little item with a picture of my kit, and I expect I'd get it too.
In any event, White Wand is E5, not E3, and it is not 'some poxy' E5 but a very fine route. If there is one serious point which I intended to make with this thread, it is that the skills required to climb V10 are not the same as those required to climb White Wand, and by that I don't mean bl**dy well headpointing it. As you said yourself, although obviously you didn't mean it, neither deserves more respect than the other.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
John,
Most the reports of Lisa exploits that have been reported on here have been reported by me. Why? Because some people are interested in what a top female boulderer gets up to. I'm not her publicist by any means, although she does live around the corner.
As regards "the skills required to climb V10 are not the same as those required to climb White Wand"
I agree. Similarly V10 ability might not get you up a 6b sport climb as I've witnessed frequently. Good point sir.
You're still laughing though aren't you, you lil' devil?
M
John,
Most the reports of Lisa exploits that have been reported on here have been reported by me. Why? Because some people are interested in what a top female boulderer gets up to. I'm not her publicist by any means, although she does live around the corner.
As regards "the skills required to climb V10 are not the same as those required to climb White Wand"
I agree. Similarly V10 ability might not get you up a 6b sport climb as I've witnessed frequently. Good point sir.
You're still laughing though aren't you, you lil' devil?
M
In reply to Matt Wilson:
Bishop High-Ball Boulder Problem = Gritstone Headpoint Route.....
tee-hee.....only kidding...
M
>
> There are some bloody scary highballs in Bishop (i know this because i've been there and stood underneath some of them)
> There are some bloody scary highballs in Bishop (i know this because i've been there and stood underneath some of them)
Bishop High-Ball Boulder Problem = Gritstone Headpoint Route.....
tee-hee.....only kidding...
M
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA: I would like to hear Lisa's honest thoughts on the subject. Is there any chance you will supply them Mick?
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
John, read your post and thought it a perfectly legitimate and interesting piece of general climbing gossip appropriate for Rock Talk.
I was about to support you, however it's just a pity that you blew it.
"Yup, and its suprising how big the holds are on it! Need to spend another day on it i reckon..."
"It's pathetic to toprope White Wand. Correct."
One rule for the elite and another rule for the rest?
Is that how it is? Perhaps a touch hypocritical?
Mark
John, read your post and thought it a perfectly legitimate and interesting piece of general climbing gossip appropriate for Rock Talk.
I was about to support you, however it's just a pity that you blew it.
"Yup, and its suprising how big the holds are on it! Need to spend another day on it i reckon..."
"It's pathetic to toprope White Wand. Correct."
One rule for the elite and another rule for the rest?
Is that how it is? Perhaps a touch hypocritical?
Mark
In reply to johncoxmysteriously and all the rest of the bitches:
what a bloody disgraceful thread. John, I had respect for you, why the nasty sidelong comments? woker, you are as bad in some ways, all the rest of you joining in when you think there is a bit of a rumble going on.
Let things drop, anyone can have an off day. If you do not believe it look at ALL your postings, someone else will and throw them back in your face.
Group hug everyone.
what a bloody disgraceful thread. John, I had respect for you, why the nasty sidelong comments? woker, you are as bad in some ways, all the rest of you joining in when you think there is a bit of a rumble going on.
Let things drop, anyone can have an off day. If you do not believe it look at ALL your postings, someone else will and throw them back in your face.
Group hug everyone.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously: Are you sure about the beer in South Stack cafe?
Last time I was in there (about a week ago) they were selling bottles of beer. I did consider it as a hair of the dog solution for my fuzzy head, but opted for the usual tea and cake 'upper'.
By the way, carry on winding everyone up. This forum is barely worth reading, unless there is a good argument going on. What we need are more stereotypes, more sweeping generalisations and less respect for people's feelings.
Cheers, Simon.
Last time I was in there (about a week ago) they were selling bottles of beer. I did consider it as a hair of the dog solution for my fuzzy head, but opted for the usual tea and cake 'upper'.
By the way, carry on winding everyone up. This forum is barely worth reading, unless there is a good argument going on. What we need are more stereotypes, more sweeping generalisations and less respect for people's feelings.
Cheers, Simon.
In reply to Simon Panton:
Why of course Simone....both John and myself fully understand that.....and many others....and yourself of course....a lot better than printing a load of bollox....
But amongst the dross there is some real insights into the values of climbers....if only we could persuade Ken Wilson that that is true....perhaps he wouldnn't be so arrogant and he might actually listen to what RT is saying....
M
> This forum is barely worth reading, unless there is a good argument going on.
Why of course Simone....both John and myself fully understand that.....and many others....and yourself of course....a lot better than printing a load of bollox....
But amongst the dross there is some real insights into the values of climbers....if only we could persuade Ken Wilson that that is true....perhaps he wouldnn't be so arrogant and he might actually listen to what RT is saying....
M
In reply to johncoxmysteriously: Come on everybody, can't you see what John is saying. I expect he has the utmost respect for Ms Rands as any self respecting climber would, there is no doubt that she is very strong, but it is funny for us mortals when such 'celebs' flail on routes which we have done. I am with you here John and I am sure you meant no harm by gossiping about it, this is exactly the sort of climbing chit chat that we need here instead of 'what is your favourite womble' threads.
Ha ha...see I laughed, and I still repsect Lisa Rands!
Anywy, enough of that, tell us more about the lesbians!
Ha ha...see I laughed, and I still repsect Lisa Rands!
Anywy, enough of that, tell us more about the lesbians!
In reply to Nj:
but that's what makes this such an unexpectedly entertaining thread. Mr Cox's original post was in the grand tradition of UK climbing - where you take the piss mercilessly, yet with no bad intentions meant.
Given RT's strange hatred of Americans, it was to be expected that there would be no cavilling, yet, remarkably, cavillers there were, and Mr Cox was left having to defend what was really just a piss take. Hilarity ensued.
> (In reply to johncoxmysteriously) Come on everybody...
but that's what makes this such an unexpectedly entertaining thread. Mr Cox's original post was in the grand tradition of UK climbing - where you take the piss mercilessly, yet with no bad intentions meant.
Given RT's strange hatred of Americans, it was to be expected that there would be no cavilling, yet, remarkably, cavillers there were, and Mr Cox was left having to defend what was really just a piss take. Hilarity ensued.
As someone completely unqualified to comment on this matter (other than by the mere fact that I climb and am a human being), I read John's post and thought it was rather amusing. Yes, it is funny to laugh at so-called elite climbers having a bad day or even being shown to have weaknesses. On the other hand, I didn't relaise that John was quite so human as to get into this type of debate - it has shown quite a different side to the man...
In reply to JonC:
While we're at it.
Why didn't John Cox get such a hard time for (repeatedly) taking the piss out of Adam Lincoln for failing on Roof Route (and Sentinel Crack, and....tee hee)?
That seems like an exactly parallel case to this one, except in this case a girl is involved. Are we all patronising, sexist bastards? Just stoking the fire.
postscript: for those calling on john to respect lisa, it's not about respect. I have buckets of respect for lisa, and still find this funny. I'd have found it funny if I'd have been the subject (and I am in exactly the same boat as lisa. white wand beat me too).
While we're at it.
Why didn't John Cox get such a hard time for (repeatedly) taking the piss out of Adam Lincoln for failing on Roof Route (and Sentinel Crack, and....tee hee)?
That seems like an exactly parallel case to this one, except in this case a girl is involved. Are we all patronising, sexist bastards? Just stoking the fire.
postscript: for those calling on john to respect lisa, it's not about respect. I have buckets of respect for lisa, and still find this funny. I'd have found it funny if I'd have been the subject (and I am in exactly the same boat as lisa. white wand beat me too).
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
I had a feeling you'd fall into this trap.
So, E3 or E5? You seem to be a little confused.
I had a feeling you'd fall into this trap.
> This lady’s a global superstar in the minds of some and she can’t even climb f*cking E3
> She evidently finds even doing it at E3 or so harder than at any rate some V10s.
> In any event, White Wand is E5, not E3
So, E3 or E5? You seem to be a little confused.
In reply to tobyfk:
I think there should be a Rocktalk whipround to fund a Cox visit to Bishop. Must be more than a few people who'd part with a few quid to have John eat humble pie!
- put me down for a fiver.
John, remember to take your top-rope!
bob
I think there should be a Rocktalk whipround to fund a Cox visit to Bishop. Must be more than a few people who'd part with a few quid to have John eat humble pie!
- put me down for a fiver.
John, remember to take your top-rope!
bob
In reply to bob smith:
I heard John bought a nice 30 metre cut off for rigging up his top ropes quickly and easily...
I heard John bought a nice 30 metre cut off for rigging up his top ropes quickly and easily...
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
About time too. I mean, what with a broken ankle to recover from and all.... little lamb, all precious and soft!
Has he got a hundred metre one too, for all those Cloggy VS's he's been out doing?
bob
About time too. I mean, what with a broken ankle to recover from and all.... little lamb, all precious and soft!
Has he got a hundred metre one too, for all those Cloggy VS's he's been out doing?
bob
In reply to bob smith: I can lend him mine
In reply to Mark Stevenson:
>I was about to support you, however it's just a pity that >you blew it.
>"Yup, and its suprising how big the holds are on it! Need to spend another day on it i reckon..."
>"It's pathetic to toprope White Wand. Correct."
>One rule for the elite and another rule for the rest?
>Is that how it is? Perhaps a touch hypocritical?
Mark, I think you're mistaking me for Adam Lincoln. We are in fact two different people. With two very different views about Parthian Shot. When I looked at it, from the safety of the neighbouring HVS, I thought it was surprising how steep it was and how far apart the holds were, and I resolved never to spend any days on it at all.
>I was about to support you, however it's just a pity that >you blew it.
>"Yup, and its suprising how big the holds are on it! Need to spend another day on it i reckon..."
>"It's pathetic to toprope White Wand. Correct."
>One rule for the elite and another rule for the rest?
>Is that how it is? Perhaps a touch hypocritical?
Mark, I think you're mistaking me for Adam Lincoln. We are in fact two different people. With two very different views about Parthian Shot. When I looked at it, from the safety of the neighbouring HVS, I thought it was surprising how steep it was and how far apart the holds were, and I resolved never to spend any days on it at all.
In reply to Anonymous:
I am not confused at all.
Of your quotes:-
My first remark was about Archangel, not White Wand. Archangel is E3 and to fly the Atlantic in order to top-rope it is frankly beneath any criticism I might make.
My second remark was making the point that any E3 leader can headpoint White Wand if they are willing to stoop so low and thus to headpoint it represents about that level of achievement.
My third remark was describing the actual grade of a genuine ascent of White Wand. You can bet that's the one we'd have heard quoted in the event of success.
I am not confused at all.
Of your quotes:-
My first remark was about Archangel, not White Wand. Archangel is E3 and to fly the Atlantic in order to top-rope it is frankly beneath any criticism I might make.
My second remark was making the point that any E3 leader can headpoint White Wand if they are willing to stoop so low and thus to headpoint it represents about that level of achievement.
My third remark was describing the actual grade of a genuine ascent of White Wand. You can bet that's the one we'd have heard quoted in the event of success.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously: John, a number of times you have mentioned the amazing climbing prowess of your dog. Do you really have a dog? And if so if I take it for walks can it show me how to climb White Wand - or is his/her sequence only for those with claws?
In reply to TobyA:
My dogs a better climber than Jons. She has climbed all of the routes on the great slab at froggatt on-sight. Mind you she is getting a bit old now and struggled on Flying Butress Direct at the weekend. Although to be fair she has always prefered slabs.
Tra-la-laa
My dogs a better climber than Jons. She has climbed all of the routes on the great slab at froggatt on-sight. Mind you she is getting a bit old now and struggled on Flying Butress Direct at the weekend. Although to be fair she has always prefered slabs.
Tra-la-laa
In reply to Nj: I seem to remember similar knights in shining armour coming to the defence of Airlie A when people recall the 'jamming incident' (piss taking which she takes in the spirit intended and lets her record speak for itself in my experience) - and just as funny as watching Tim Emmett struggle on Separate Reality - good climbers, nationally recognised, paid by sponsors cos they're better than the rest of us, struggling on something that is relatively easy by their standards.
Of course it's funny, you daft sods. And I find it a bit depressing if the cult of the superstar has removed these people so far from the rest of us that people really believe that they are above piss taking - Mick mentioned Crags the other day - an incident like that would have been reported gleefully and laughed about in the spirit intended - what do we get here? "You're not allowed to laugh at people unless you can climb harder than them".
Thanks goodness Bob's crap nowadays.
Of course it's funny, you daft sods. And I find it a bit depressing if the cult of the superstar has removed these people so far from the rest of us that people really believe that they are above piss taking - Mick mentioned Crags the other day - an incident like that would have been reported gleefully and laughed about in the spirit intended - what do we get here? "You're not allowed to laugh at people unless you can climb harder than them".
Thanks goodness Bob's crap nowadays.
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
You big bunch of girls!
John only made a sarcastic comment, not a dig, not dissing top roping(much), tounge in cheek bit of humour, lighthearted fun. Goes on at the crag all the time...
Chill dudes and go send some problems or do some Rowts(said in american acent)
You big bunch of girls!
John only made a sarcastic comment, not a dig, not dissing top roping(much), tounge in cheek bit of humour, lighthearted fun. Goes on at the crag all the time...
Chill dudes and go send some problems or do some Rowts(said in american acent)
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
like Routs?? make sure you have the correct beyda.
> Rowts(said in american acent)
like Routs?? make sure you have the correct beyda.
In reply to daveP:
Soz duuuude... May have to give that up and do some rapping mannnn
Soz duuuude... May have to give that up and do some rapping mannnn
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:I'm sorry to say John that I agree with the majority of the people on this thread. Taking the piss of our superstars of climbing, or anyone for that matter, is to be frowned upon. It has no place in Britains soceity today and definately no place in the climbing community. We have to consider our wider media image and begin to present ourselves in a more serious and studious light.
I know you'll agree with me when you think about it over a cup of Ovaltine. Please have your sense of humour removed as soon as possible, I'm sure there are many people on this thread that can recommend a good hospital. Maybe at the same time you could have a stick inserted up your rectum, as many of our fellow posters have had. I hear it's a wonderful complement to the removal of your humour.
And now for something completely different........
I know you'll agree with me when you think about it over a cup of Ovaltine. Please have your sense of humour removed as soon as possible, I'm sure there are many people on this thread that can recommend a good hospital. Maybe at the same time you could have a stick inserted up your rectum, as many of our fellow posters have had. I hear it's a wonderful complement to the removal of your humour.
And now for something completely different........
In reply to Jonathan T: pointed sticks eh, getting all highhh and mighty are we, too good for fresh fruit are you, welll, i'm just doing my job, right then, how to defend yourself against a man armed with a bannana!
In reply to L applat: Done Bananas
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA: I would like to hear Lisa's honest thoughts on the subject. Is there any chance you will supply them Mick?
In reply to Chris Fryer:
I doubt it Chris.
M
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:
Aw, c’mon, Mick. We pay these folks’ wages -and yours, indeed - through sponsorship and buying their videos. Surely you’d agree that the public deserves a more rounded picture of their successes and failures?
You never know. She might surprise us. She might say, ‘It’s a fantastic, bold route, but it was a bit too hard for me on the day. Respect to John Cox’s dog’. Or, ‘I wish I hadn’t top-roped it, then I could go back and do it properly when I’m up to it’.
Or, of course, she might go all Mary Decker on us and say, ‘It’s only a pissy little boulder problem, not worth getting hurt for, and I would have done it easily but my finger was hurting.’.
David Beckham has to face the media when he screws up. Why not our climbing kings and queens?
Tricky, isn’t it? What would Max Clifford suggest?
J
In reply to Chris Fryer:
I doubt it Chris.
M
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:
Aw, c’mon, Mick. We pay these folks’ wages -and yours, indeed - through sponsorship and buying their videos. Surely you’d agree that the public deserves a more rounded picture of their successes and failures?
You never know. She might surprise us. She might say, ‘It’s a fantastic, bold route, but it was a bit too hard for me on the day. Respect to John Cox’s dog’. Or, ‘I wish I hadn’t top-roped it, then I could go back and do it properly when I’m up to it’.
Or, of course, she might go all Mary Decker on us and say, ‘It’s only a pissy little boulder problem, not worth getting hurt for, and I would have done it easily but my finger was hurting.’.
David Beckham has to face the media when he screws up. Why not our climbing kings and queens?
Tricky, isn’t it? What would Max Clifford suggest?
J
In reply to johncoxmysteriously: Mr Cliffor would probably suggest that you raped Johnathon Aitken while having octuplets and engaging in an aldulterous coke & booze frenzy with two page three girls and a premier league footballer.
Anyway, what are you doing at work?
More to the point, what am I doing here? Are you up for soem climbing at the Roaches Sunday? Perhaps a repeat of the extenstion to 'A Modest proposal'?
Anyway, what are you doing at work?
More to the point, what am I doing here? Are you up for soem climbing at the Roaches Sunday? Perhaps a repeat of the extenstion to 'A Modest proposal'?
In reply to Jonathan T:
Goddam, missed this thread..
>>Taking the piss of our superstars of climbing, or anyone for that matter, is to be frowned upon.<<
No it's not! Feck, go back and read the first post again. It contains the phrase 'tee hee'. we're not exactly talking about wholesale character assassination here are we?
Who wouldn't smirk if they saw Nigel Mansell stall a Ford Fiesta at traffic lights? s the same kinda thing, put yr sharp stick away
Goddam, missed this thread..
>>Taking the piss of our superstars of climbing, or anyone for that matter, is to be frowned upon.<<
No it's not! Feck, go back and read the first post again. It contains the phrase 'tee hee'. we're not exactly talking about wholesale character assassination here are we?
Who wouldn't smirk if they saw Nigel Mansell stall a Ford Fiesta at traffic lights? s the same kinda thing, put yr sharp stick away
In reply to Nikkus:
And what's wrong with Ford Fiesta's? Now if he stalled a micra, that would be funny.
> Who wouldn't smirk if they saw Nigel Mansell stall a Ford Fiesta at traffic lights? s the same kinda thing, put yr sharp stick away
And what's wrong with Ford Fiesta's? Now if he stalled a micra, that would be funny.
In reply to Nikkus:
Try reading Jonathan T's post again, he was taking the p*ss.
Fact is, we like to see 'heroes' flail. Who did exactly the same as Coxy when it came to a certain Yokshire cover star's flailure on Astroman? But if it's a girl, everyone gets upset because they need more support what with climbing being male dominated and all. It's a bit patronising really.
Try reading Jonathan T's post again, he was taking the p*ss.
Fact is, we like to see 'heroes' flail. Who did exactly the same as Coxy when it came to a certain Yokshire cover star's flailure on Astroman? But if it's a girl, everyone gets upset because they need more support what with climbing being male dominated and all. It's a bit patronising really.
In reply to Sron:
It's the same with any celebrity...
Us plebs love to see them fall from grace.
It might have something to do with jealosy.
Mick
It's the same with any celebrity...
Us plebs love to see them fall from grace.
It might have something to do with jealosy.
Mick
In reply to Sron:
doh, guess that's what happens when i try to skim read a whole thread
doh, guess that's what happens when i try to skim read a whole thread
In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:
And what's wrong with that Mick?
Most of us struggle desperately with climbing, whether it's VS or E4, we thrash and fail and curse and all the time in the knowledge that someone can do it so much better, someone soloed it onsight or does laps as a warm-up route.
In the meantime the magazines are full of rock stars, heroes and heroines at the cutting edge, who not only climb so bloody well that our struggles barely qualify as hillwalking in comparison, but they get sponsorship, column inches, flashy photographs, round the world bouldering expeditions, an elite circle of friends etc etc to boot.
Is it any wonder we're f*cking jealous??
So it's a good thing for those stars to be brought down to earth occasionally, to remind us that although they're bloody good, they're also as fallible as we are, sometimes. Like Kevin Thaw and his broken heel, about f*cking time too, bold grit should be f*cking dangerous, but usually what we see is people either cruising it or hurling themselves off E8 with scratches of E9 with no apparent ill-effects, while most of us can - and sometimes have - hurt ourselves at 1/10th that grade...
Regards,
F.
And what's wrong with that Mick?
Most of us struggle desperately with climbing, whether it's VS or E4, we thrash and fail and curse and all the time in the knowledge that someone can do it so much better, someone soloed it onsight or does laps as a warm-up route.
In the meantime the magazines are full of rock stars, heroes and heroines at the cutting edge, who not only climb so bloody well that our struggles barely qualify as hillwalking in comparison, but they get sponsorship, column inches, flashy photographs, round the world bouldering expeditions, an elite circle of friends etc etc to boot.
Is it any wonder we're f*cking jealous??
So it's a good thing for those stars to be brought down to earth occasionally, to remind us that although they're bloody good, they're also as fallible as we are, sometimes. Like Kevin Thaw and his broken heel, about f*cking time too, bold grit should be f*cking dangerous, but usually what we see is people either cruising it or hurling themselves off E8 with scratches of E9 with no apparent ill-effects, while most of us can - and sometimes have - hurt ourselves at 1/10th that grade...
Regards,
F.
In reply to Fiend:
Absolutely nothing.
Mick
> (In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA)
>
> And what's wrong with that Mick?
>
> And what's wrong with that Mick?
Absolutely nothing.
Mick
In reply to jp:
jp whoever you are...you have been expressing my complete feelings perfectly. couldn't agree with you more. the other named individuals in the thread do NOT bother to talk to people who climb the lower grades, i know from personal experience, they are a clique!!! they are arrogant people who are not climbers as such but just obssessed rude "personalities" to put it bluntly! all talk talk talk..a top notch insipirational female climber who tries hard is as good as me trying a HVS lead!!! everyone is the same as long as they treat the rock and envirnoment carefully and enjoy themselves..the spirit of climbs is as important as the grade!
you summed up these climbing threads i have read for the first time today in ages!!!!
oh yes will stay anonymous cuz that is what i am in most people's eyes whenever i meet them..anonymous because i am weak girlie that climb below e2! but i enjoy myself!
jp whoever you are...you have been expressing my complete feelings perfectly. couldn't agree with you more. the other named individuals in the thread do NOT bother to talk to people who climb the lower grades, i know from personal experience, they are a clique!!! they are arrogant people who are not climbers as such but just obssessed rude "personalities" to put it bluntly! all talk talk talk..a top notch insipirational female climber who tries hard is as good as me trying a HVS lead!!! everyone is the same as long as they treat the rock and envirnoment carefully and enjoy themselves..the spirit of climbs is as important as the grade!
you summed up these climbing threads i have read for the first time today in ages!!!!
oh yes will stay anonymous cuz that is what i am in most people's eyes whenever i meet them..anonymous because i am weak girlie that climb below e2! but i enjoy myself!
In reply to Anonymous:
everyone is the same as long as they treat the rock and envirnoment carefully and enjoy themselves..the spirit of climbs is as important as the grade!
Anonymous get a grip. If you bothered to read the whole thread you would see that these people DID NOT treat the rock carefully.
And personally I couldn't give a f*ck what grade you climb. I doubt anyone else could either. The grade is not the issue here. She wasn't trying to push herself, she already climbs hard and nobody has disputed that.
It was a JOKE. I thought everybody had worked that out by now.
everyone is the same as long as they treat the rock and envirnoment carefully and enjoy themselves..the spirit of climbs is as important as the grade!
Anonymous get a grip. If you bothered to read the whole thread you would see that these people DID NOT treat the rock carefully.
And personally I couldn't give a f*ck what grade you climb. I doubt anyone else could either. The grade is not the issue here. She wasn't trying to push herself, she already climbs hard and nobody has disputed that.
It was a JOKE. I thought everybody had worked that out by now.
In reply to Anonymous:
I think you have slightly missed the irony here. Of the people that I know on this thread, you just have them dead wrong. I know for a fact that if John Cox, for instance, were to see you struggling to onsight something at your limit, whether that's VDiff or E8, he would be completely supportive.
And please don't be anonymous. The whole point of a forum like this is that you can be unapologetically yourself. There's plenty of room for weak sub-E2 girlies. I frequently climb like one.
I think you have slightly missed the irony here. Of the people that I know on this thread, you just have them dead wrong. I know for a fact that if John Cox, for instance, were to see you struggling to onsight something at your limit, whether that's VDiff or E8, he would be completely supportive.
And please don't be anonymous. The whole point of a forum like this is that you can be unapologetically yourself. There's plenty of room for weak sub-E2 girlies. I frequently climb like one.
In reply to Dave Garnett:
... unless you were top roping, because John Cox knows that top roping is wrong and that people doing it need to be informed of the error of their ways, I assume.
> I know for a fact that if John Cox, for instance, were to see you struggling to onsight something at your limit, whether that's VDiff or E8, he would be completely supportive.
... unless you were top roping, because John Cox knows that top roping is wrong and that people doing it need to be informed of the error of their ways, I assume.
In reply to Dave Garnett:
john cox has seen me climb and struggling and he still beleives he is far superior than me!!
john cox has seen me climb and struggling and he still beleives he is far superior than me!!
In reply to Anonymous:
Perhaps if you’d told me your name I’d have been more supportive.
Anyway, you must be a bit of a minger, surely? Most girlies who climb have to spend their entire time fighting off unwanted support from sexist lechers like me.
Perhaps if you’d told me your name I’d have been more supportive.
Anyway, you must be a bit of a minger, surely? Most girlies who climb have to spend their entire time fighting off unwanted support from sexist lechers like me.
In reply to Wan:
It was a joke.
It was a joke.
In reply to jp:
I did say onsight, by which I meant leading. If you were toproping he might take the piss, but only very politely, I'm sure. And quite right too.
Not that I've never toproped anything, but I'd expect some abuse if anyone caught me in the act!
I did say onsight, by which I meant leading. If you were toproping he might take the piss, but only very politely, I'm sure. And quite right too.
Not that I've never toproped anything, but I'd expect some abuse if anyone caught me in the act!
In reply to Anonymous:
I'm sorry - but there appears to be a personal edge to this. If you have a problem with JohnCox personally then why not email him instead of dropping hints and alegations on a public message board.
As I said above, I do not particularly see the harm in John's orginal post. It was quite funny in a "let's laugh at a celeb" kind of way. I think we have all probably done that at some point in our lives and it's quite natural. I was actually quite surprised to hear this coming from John but only because of his "normal" style on this board, not because I think there's anything wrong with it per se.
I suggest you take your personal grievances elsewhere.
I'm sorry - but there appears to be a personal edge to this. If you have a problem with JohnCox personally then why not email him instead of dropping hints and alegations on a public message board.
As I said above, I do not particularly see the harm in John's orginal post. It was quite funny in a "let's laugh at a celeb" kind of way. I think we have all probably done that at some point in our lives and it's quite natural. I was actually quite surprised to hear this coming from John but only because of his "normal" style on this board, not because I think there's anything wrong with it per se.
I suggest you take your personal grievances elsewhere.
In reply to JonC:
Ahh it maight get boring again if we all do that tho' eh Jon ?
Ahh it maight get boring again if we all do that tho' eh Jon ?
In reply to JonC:
John is quiet capable of flamming and being flammed with the bast of um. This thread doesn't seem too over the top to me anyway....
John is quiet capable of flamming and being flammed with the bast of um. This thread doesn't seem too over the top to me anyway....
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
proves another point...1) you don't climb e8 you are worth nothing
2) and this is a personal sore point for me....you don't wear a skimpy bra and show your tits at mile end then you are worth nothing
by the way i wasn't insulting anyone..was just pointing out the intimidating atmosphere of the thread to those that think trying is not as important as suceeding
actually yes I am a bit of a "minger" as they say!!
proves another point...1) you don't climb e8 you are worth nothing
2) and this is a personal sore point for me....you don't wear a skimpy bra and show your tits at mile end then you are worth nothing
by the way i wasn't insulting anyone..was just pointing out the intimidating atmosphere of the thread to those that think trying is not as important as suceeding
actually yes I am a bit of a "minger" as they say!!
In reply to Anonymous:
gawd that easy everything bill gonna be expensive!
gawd that easy everything bill gonna be expensive!
In reply to Anonymous:
Hmm, that's me out the window then -- certainly no E8 climber, and don't wear a skimpy bra. In fact, don't even climb at Mile End.
Hmm, that's me out the window then -- certainly no E8 climber, and don't wear a skimpy bra. In fact, don't even climb at Mile End.
In reply to Anonymous:
I think John's whole point was that, by her standards, Lisa Rands wasn't trying. Anyway, a quick scan through here will provide ample evidence of people not succeeding.
We're not that intimidating, obviously. It didn't stop you having a go. If we're all extra reasonable perhaps you'll leave your name next time.
> (In reply to johncoxmysteriously)
> by the way i wasn't insulting anyone..was just pointing out the intimidating atmosphere of the thread to those that think trying is not as important as suceeding
I think John's whole point was that, by her standards, Lisa Rands wasn't trying. Anyway, a quick scan through here will provide ample evidence of people not succeeding.
We're not that intimidating, obviously. It didn't stop you having a go. If we're all extra reasonable perhaps you'll leave your name next time.
In reply to Stefan Kruger:
In reply to Stefan Kruger: Good. We don’t want your sort. And there is a dress code, you know.
In reply to anonymous: You weren’t wearing a sports bra??!! And you expect me to be supportive? Do be reasonable.
And in reply to anonymous more seriously:
proves another point...1) you don't climb e8 you are worth nothing
Don’t be daft. Only two people on this thread have climbed E8 as far as I know; I’m not one of them, and I’d be very surprised if you could name both the other two. And in the Palm Tree last night, like every night, there was a pretty large crowd whose top lead grade ranged from E8 to Severe. Apart from the fact the Severe leader had to sit in the corner wearing a dunce’s cap, I think you’d have been pushed to conclude that any of us thought we were worth more than the rest.
2) and this is a personal sore point for me....you don't wear a skimpy bra and show your tits at mile end then you are worth nothing
I sympathise. When I first went to Mile End I used to look at those shirtless young men (there weren’t so many sports bras then) crowding around the competition wall, and skulk round the edge in my shirt and Ron Hills. I used to think, just like you, that they were a cliquey bunch who wouldn’t speak to a useless climber like me. I used to hate the way they took their shirts off to flash their muscles around, and wonder who the hell they thought they were. Well, now I’m one of them (they had to change the rules for me to admit shirtless middle-aged men). I’m still the same person I was when I was even more crap than I am now, and so are they. I just wear what’s comfortable for pulling hard in, and while I don’t speak for the sports bra contingent, I’m guessing it’s the same for most of them. I’m sure there’s a few of both sexes enjoying the views, but what d’you want us to do? It’s the birds and the bees, isn’t it?
by the way i wasn't insulting anyone..was just pointing out the intimidating atmosphere of the thread to those that think trying is not as important as suceeding
Oh come off it. You called me (and a load of others) ‘arrogant people’, and suggested that I in particular ‘thought myself superior’. Some people might find that insulting. I don’t understand your last sentence, but if you think I don’t think trying is more important than succeeding, you don’t know me very well.
actually yes I am a bit of a "minger" as they say!!
Well, you’ve obviously seen me down the wall, so you know we have something in common. Let’s try to build on that. I’m there almost every Tuesday or Thursday: come up to me and introduce yourself, I’ll buy you a drink at the Palm Tree, and you can tell me how you got the impression I think I’m superior to you. I dare say we might both learn something.
In reply to Stefan Kruger: Good. We don’t want your sort. And there is a dress code, you know.
In reply to anonymous: You weren’t wearing a sports bra??!! And you expect me to be supportive? Do be reasonable.
And in reply to anonymous more seriously:
proves another point...1) you don't climb e8 you are worth nothing
Don’t be daft. Only two people on this thread have climbed E8 as far as I know; I’m not one of them, and I’d be very surprised if you could name both the other two. And in the Palm Tree last night, like every night, there was a pretty large crowd whose top lead grade ranged from E8 to Severe. Apart from the fact the Severe leader had to sit in the corner wearing a dunce’s cap, I think you’d have been pushed to conclude that any of us thought we were worth more than the rest.
2) and this is a personal sore point for me....you don't wear a skimpy bra and show your tits at mile end then you are worth nothing
I sympathise. When I first went to Mile End I used to look at those shirtless young men (there weren’t so many sports bras then) crowding around the competition wall, and skulk round the edge in my shirt and Ron Hills. I used to think, just like you, that they were a cliquey bunch who wouldn’t speak to a useless climber like me. I used to hate the way they took their shirts off to flash their muscles around, and wonder who the hell they thought they were. Well, now I’m one of them (they had to change the rules for me to admit shirtless middle-aged men). I’m still the same person I was when I was even more crap than I am now, and so are they. I just wear what’s comfortable for pulling hard in, and while I don’t speak for the sports bra contingent, I’m guessing it’s the same for most of them. I’m sure there’s a few of both sexes enjoying the views, but what d’you want us to do? It’s the birds and the bees, isn’t it?
by the way i wasn't insulting anyone..was just pointing out the intimidating atmosphere of the thread to those that think trying is not as important as suceeding
Oh come off it. You called me (and a load of others) ‘arrogant people’, and suggested that I in particular ‘thought myself superior’. Some people might find that insulting. I don’t understand your last sentence, but if you think I don’t think trying is more important than succeeding, you don’t know me very well.
actually yes I am a bit of a "minger" as they say!!
Well, you’ve obviously seen me down the wall, so you know we have something in common. Let’s try to build on that. I’m there almost every Tuesday or Thursday: come up to me and introduce yourself, I’ll buy you a drink at the Palm Tree, and you can tell me how you got the impression I think I’m superior to you. I dare say we might both learn something.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
Steady on now John! Anymore posts like that and people are going to start getting the impression that you actually do have a sense of humour.
G
Steady on now John! Anymore posts like that and people are going to start getting the impression that you actually do have a sense of humour.
G
In reply to Graham:
It's the risk you run, isn't it? I did make the point clear in my profile, before Al's computer deleted it on the grounds that I hadn't posted often enough....
It's the risk you run, isn't it? I did make the point clear in my profile, before Al's computer deleted it on the grounds that I hadn't posted often enough....
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
Er, sorry, quick recount: actually there are at least three people on this thread who count, ahem, I mean who have climbed E8.
Er, sorry, quick recount: actually there are at least three people on this thread who count, ahem, I mean who have climbed E8.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
that's the nicest posting I've seen on RT for ages and I'd be tempted to come and say hi myself, if I didn't live in this hole called B'ham !
oh well, off to the wall tonight anyway! but I'm keeping my shirt on - I don't pull *that* hard (ooh err)
that's the nicest posting I've seen on RT for ages and I'd be tempted to come and say hi myself, if I didn't live in this hole called B'ham !
oh well, off to the wall tonight anyway! but I'm keeping my shirt on - I don't pull *that* hard (ooh err)
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
>I mean who have climbed E8.
Pah! Your standards are slipping man. If it weren't on sight it weren't the grade!
G
>I mean who have climbed E8.
Pah! Your standards are slipping man. If it weren't on sight it weren't the grade!
G
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
Five, actually
> Er, sorry, quick recount: actually there are at least three people on this thread who count, ahem, I mean who have climbed E8.
Five, actually
In reply to johncoxmysteriously: I act on behalf of M'Learned friend Sloper.
I must ask you to retract the deeply offensive and professionaly damaging remark that Mr Sloper does either not count and does not climb 'E8'.
Mr Sloper does indeed, as a member of The Cosnervative Party, Whites and The Honourable Society of Gray's Inn, Count and has fallen off onsight soloing E8.
I would therefore seek an unreserved apology for this most serious libel and the payment of substantial damages.
Please consider this letter open and as a letter before claim.
Yours
peter carter rcuk
I must ask you to retract the deeply offensive and professionaly damaging remark that Mr Sloper does either not count and does not climb 'E8'.
Mr Sloper does indeed, as a member of The Cosnervative Party, Whites and The Honourable Society of Gray's Inn, Count and has fallen off onsight soloing E8.
I would therefore seek an unreserved apology for this most serious libel and the payment of substantial damages.
Please consider this letter open and as a letter before claim.
Yours
peter carter rcuk
This thread is a f*cking embarressment to britain, and incrdeably rude.
Alot of the women in Britain have been incredably inspired to have the oppotunity to climb with Lisa. She's probably stonger than all of you sexist excuses for men put together.
SHUT THE F*CK UP and go back to wanking over your climbing mags
Alot of the women in Britain have been incredably inspired to have the oppotunity to climb with Lisa. She's probably stonger than all of you sexist excuses for men put together.
SHUT THE F*CK UP and go back to wanking over your climbing mags
In reply to airlie:
Nice one lass, I think it is a lot of inadequates who are jealous that are posting the nasty comments.
Keep on climbing well.
Nice one lass, I think it is a lot of inadequates who are jealous that are posting the nasty comments.
Keep on climbing well.
In reply to airlie: time of the month sweetie, never mind there's a post about kittens in the pub.
In reply to airlie:
I'm interestested hear why you think this is a sexist thread ? As far as I can tell, its just about a top climber (acknowledged as such by most on this thread) having a bad day at the office and taking themselves a yad seriously over it.
I'm interestested hear why you think this is a sexist thread ? As far as I can tell, its just about a top climber (acknowledged as such by most on this thread) having a bad day at the office and taking themselves a yad seriously over it.
In reply to airlie:
Oh come on. Are you saying you've never taken the piss out of one of your superstar mates who unaccountably failed to get up something you would have thought they should piss up? Hell, it's kind of a compliment.
If you handle it well, you shrug, make some equally withering remark in return and all go down the pub as mates.
Oh come on. Are you saying you've never taken the piss out of one of your superstar mates who unaccountably failed to get up something you would have thought they should piss up? Hell, it's kind of a compliment.
If you handle it well, you shrug, make some equally withering remark in return and all go down the pub as mates.
In reply to andy:
>I seem to remember similar knights in shining armour coming to the defence of Airlie A when people recall the 'jamming incident' (piss taking which she takes in the spirit intended and lets her record speak for itself in my experience)
I wondered about this theory when I saw this post before. Time to test it.
You go first, Andy.
>I seem to remember similar knights in shining armour coming to the defence of Airlie A when people recall the 'jamming incident' (piss taking which she takes in the spirit intended and lets her record speak for itself in my experience)
I wondered about this theory when I saw this post before. Time to test it.
You go first, Andy.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
Coxy, looks like someone stole your dog while you were laid up with various snapped bits....now in Australia of all places...
Coxy, looks like someone stole your dog while you were laid up with various snapped bits....now in Australia of all places...
In reply to johncox'sdog:
Hey John now I get it...
I haven't been drinking with her in the last few weeks, so I am a bit out of touch...
Whilst she maybe is crap at leading on grit, I wouldn't fancy your chances in an arm wrestling comp with the girl
Do u know how she did in the last World Cup comp?
Cheers,
Hey John now I get it...
I haven't been drinking with her in the last few weeks, so I am a bit out of touch...
Whilst she maybe is crap at leading on grit, I wouldn't fancy your chances in an arm wrestling comp with the girl
Do u know how she did in the last World Cup comp?
Cheers,
In reply to johncoxmysteriously: did your admirer take up your kind offer of a drink last night then John?
In reply to flapper:
No. Unless you count three of my mates coming up to me and saying it was them and could they have their free drink. I hadn't entirely thought that aspect of it through.
No. Unless you count three of my mates coming up to me and saying it was them and could they have their free drink. I hadn't entirely thought that aspect of it through.
In reply to Dave Garnett:
'Are you saying you've never taken the piss out of one of your... mates'
but when it isn't 'one of your mates' it comes across differently.
as for johncox and L Applat, I seem to remember reading on here that you two are lawyers, is that the reason you come across as a couple of self righteous c*nts or is it because you are a couple of self righteous c*nts that you became lawyers?
'Are you saying you've never taken the piss out of one of your... mates'
but when it isn't 'one of your mates' it comes across differently.
as for johncox and L Applat, I seem to remember reading on here that you two are lawyers, is that the reason you come across as a couple of self righteous c*nts or is it because you are a couple of self righteous c*nts that you became lawyers?
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
Is E8 hard or something? And is it only E8 if you onsight-solo it?
Airlie--I'm with you, except that I don't think this thread is sexist crap, just crap. Although highly entertaining crap!
I don't know Lisa, but I've watched her climb at pretty close quarters, and umm, she's REALLY good. Not being able to piss up some 5.12A english curb doesn't really take that away.
This is the classic example of the big fishes in a small pond!
Peace, and enjoy your weekend.
Is E8 hard or something? And is it only E8 if you onsight-solo it?
Airlie--I'm with you, except that I don't think this thread is sexist crap, just crap. Although highly entertaining crap!
I don't know Lisa, but I've watched her climb at pretty close quarters, and umm, she's REALLY good. Not being able to piss up some 5.12A english curb doesn't really take that away.
This is the classic example of the big fishes in a small pond!
Peace, and enjoy your weekend.
In reply to Neal Carroll:
Which is exactly why, as pointed out numerous times above, it's funny.
can this one be archived now?
> I don't know Lisa, but I've watched her climb at pretty close quarters, and umm, she's REALLY good. Not being able to piss up some 5.12A english curb doesn't really take that away.
Which is exactly why, as pointed out numerous times above, it's funny.
can this one be archived now?
In reply to TobyA:
Nah TobyA - can't archive this - I'm enjoying it.
having read it all - I'm amazed.
Sense of humour failure all round.
John didn't exactly slag her off did he?
He said "Tee hee" - hardly cruel, sexist, heartless, etc.
Nah TobyA - can't archive this - I'm enjoying it.
having read it all - I'm amazed.
Sense of humour failure all round.
John didn't exactly slag her off did he?
He said "Tee hee" - hardly cruel, sexist, heartless, etc.
In reply to jp:
My God! I've only just noticed this.
Tell me honestly now, which part of, 'My dog's done White Wand.' did you need to have identified to you as a joke?
> (In reply to Wan)
>
> If you have to explain that it's a joke, then it's not a joke.
>
> If you have to explain that it's a joke, then it's not a joke.
My God! I've only just noticed this.
Tell me honestly now, which part of, 'My dog's done White Wand.' did you need to have identified to you as a joke?
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
"you are failing to distinguish between 'don't climb on grit' and 'do climb on grit, import their own techniques for beating into submission... blah blah..."
of course none of your good buddies ever use topropes...
so Adam was trying parthian ground up..?
stop having double standards you elitist
god you make me MAD
jaded
"you are failing to distinguish between 'don't climb on grit' and 'do climb on grit, import their own techniques for beating into submission... blah blah..."
of course none of your good buddies ever use topropes...
so Adam was trying parthian ground up..?
stop having double standards you elitist
god you make me MAD
jaded
In reply to jp:
"There are no rules in climbing, do what you want and don't tell others what to do (excluding deliberate vandalism)."
another one might be
"be nice and dont be some elitist lawyer asshole"
jaded
"There are no rules in climbing, do what you want and don't tell others what to do (excluding deliberate vandalism)."
another one might be
"be nice and dont be some elitist lawyer asshole"
jaded
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
"In any event, White Wand is E5, not E3, and it is not 'some poxy' E5 but a very fine route. If there is one serious point which I intended to make with this thread, it is that the skills required to climb V10 are not the same as those required to climb White Wand... blah blah"
bollox - who said bouldering is the same as E5 on grit? you want make out you're some hero cos you've done it and Lisa R couldn't, you never intended to make a serious point you just wanted to make out how great you are.
jaded
"In any event, White Wand is E5, not E3, and it is not 'some poxy' E5 but a very fine route. If there is one serious point which I intended to make with this thread, it is that the skills required to climb V10 are not the same as those required to climb White Wand... blah blah"
bollox - who said bouldering is the same as E5 on grit? you want make out you're some hero cos you've done it and Lisa R couldn't, you never intended to make a serious point you just wanted to make out how great you are.
jaded
In reply to jaded of mile end:
>of course none of your good buddies ever use topropes...
>so Adam was trying parthian ground up..?
I can't think of too many of my good buddies who would use topropes on White Wand, no. Anyway, what on earth makes you think Adam and I think the same about ethics?
>of course none of your good buddies ever use topropes...
>so Adam was trying parthian ground up..?
I can't think of too many of my good buddies who would use topropes on White Wand, no. Anyway, what on earth makes you think Adam and I think the same about ethics?
In reply to jaded of mile end:
>who said bouldering is the same as E5 on grit?
It's quite fashionable on this site to say gritstone routes are just highball boulder problems: at least it was until a week ago. I dare say we might hear a little less along those lines in the immediate future.
>you want make out you're some hero cos you've done it
As a matter of fact I haven't. That unheroic enough for you?
>and Lisa R couldn't
Oh, I'm sure she could have done. But her finger was hurting, you see......
>you never intended to make a serious point
Well, that's the first intelligent thing you've said!
>who said bouldering is the same as E5 on grit?
It's quite fashionable on this site to say gritstone routes are just highball boulder problems: at least it was until a week ago. I dare say we might hear a little less along those lines in the immediate future.
>you want make out you're some hero cos you've done it
As a matter of fact I haven't. That unheroic enough for you?
>and Lisa R couldn't
Oh, I'm sure she could have done. But her finger was hurting, you see......
>you never intended to make a serious point
Well, that's the first intelligent thing you've said!
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
Good God, are people still winging about this one? I've moved house in the time it has taken some of you lot to fail to get the joke. Well done you, Mr Mysterious John Cox. May I suggest that 'Jaded from Mile End' deserves a good bitch-slapping with a fresh, wet haddock.
Good God, are people still winging about this one? I've moved house in the time it has taken some of you lot to fail to get the joke. Well done you, Mr Mysterious John Cox. May I suggest that 'Jaded from Mile End' deserves a good bitch-slapping with a fresh, wet haddock.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
>>As a matter of fact I haven't. That unheroic enough for you?
well then htf are you in any position to say how hard or easy it is?
while were on about ethics, what are yours exactly?
something along the lines of "one rule for me and my mates and another rule for everyone else"..?
jaded
>>As a matter of fact I haven't. That unheroic enough for you?
well then htf are you in any position to say how hard or easy it is?
while were on about ethics, what are yours exactly?
something along the lines of "one rule for me and my mates and another rule for everyone else"..?
jaded
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:Jaded of mile end must be the biggest troll / wind up merchant you've ever had. It must be one of your mates surely.
In reply to jaded of mile end:
>well then htf are you in any position to say how hard or easy it is?
I give up, no wait, let me see, yes that's it - I looked in the guidebook! I knew there was some way to tell how hard routes were without doing them.
Since you ask, my ethics are that I don't practise routes that have been regularly on-sighted. If by 'my mates' you're still banging on about whatever Adam's doing on Parthian, then you'd better ask him.
>well then htf are you in any position to say how hard or easy it is?
I give up, no wait, let me see, yes that's it - I looked in the guidebook! I knew there was some way to tell how hard routes were without doing them.
Since you ask, my ethics are that I don't practise routes that have been regularly on-sighted. If by 'my mates' you're still banging on about whatever Adam's doing on Parthian, then you'd better ask him.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
Adam lincoln couldnt do parthion on a top rope if his life depended on it!
Adam lincoln couldnt do parthion on a top rope if his life depended on it!
In reply to me:
Oi Doyle! Give me one more day on it, after training some stamina and it will be done!
Oi Doyle! Give me one more day on it, after training some stamina and it will be done!
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
That wasn't me conker, i was at Kilsney yesterday at 2 o clock as well you know! You'll have to look elsewhere for your doubter! You down this weekend?
That wasn't me conker, i was at Kilsney yesterday at 2 o clock as well you know! You'll have to look elsewhere for your doubter! You down this weekend?
In reply to Chris Doyle:
Not done Conan mate! Jsut on my profile as a favourite route! One day, one day
Cant believe Steve put the clips in on that route by the way, bet it was well cool belaying under roof!
Not done Conan mate! Jsut on my profile as a favourite route! One day, one day
Cant believe Steve put the clips in on that route by the way, bet it was well cool belaying under roof!
In reply to Chris Doyle:
yup, down on saturday, though going to Stanage first so will come over to see you lot in evening
yup, down on saturday, though going to Stanage first so will come over to see you lot in evening
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
Right you are, it was f*cking wild, crazy route! I wasn't physced to second it to strip it though! See you sat.
Right you are, it was f*cking wild, crazy route! I wasn't physced to second it to strip it though! See you sat.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
Word reaches me from the man who held Lisa's top rope on White Wand...
Lisa cruised White Wand 5 or so times on a top rope, without - shock horror - the intention of leading it, just taking some light exercise following a nasty finger pulley injury. It was baking too...
Whilst I have heard that a number of complete punters have soloed White Wand on-sight, I am suprised your dog managed it as I hear the last move to the break is a sting in the tail for people of lesser statue...
Infact the route really only deserves an E grade if you are short as otherwise it is just a fairly simple boulder problem (not too high up), with the finishing move, off the whopping great pebble, a mere snip.
Its now on my bouldering hit list, ground up of course...
Tee hee.
Word reaches me from the man who held Lisa's top rope on White Wand...
Lisa cruised White Wand 5 or so times on a top rope, without - shock horror - the intention of leading it, just taking some light exercise following a nasty finger pulley injury. It was baking too...
Whilst I have heard that a number of complete punters have soloed White Wand on-sight, I am suprised your dog managed it as I hear the last move to the break is a sting in the tail for people of lesser statue...
Infact the route really only deserves an E grade if you are short as otherwise it is just a fairly simple boulder problem (not too high up), with the finishing move, off the whopping great pebble, a mere snip.
Its now on my bouldering hit list, ground up of course...
Tee hee.
In reply to Simon Cox:
Wow. Well, as a matter of fact you’re right. I am shocked. I would have thought even an American boulderer would have behaved better than that. I can’t really find the words adequately to express my contempt, so I won’t bother trying.
For the record though your mate’s beta is complete toss. The move where people whinge about reach is low down, below the pebble. On the finish height makes no difference at all. And making the final move ‘off the pebble’ (standing on it, I assume) is all very well on a toprope; it’s not quite so prudent without. I believe my dog preferred to smear up the arete, and when you boulder out the route I recommend that you do the same. After all, once Lisa and her ilk have snapped the pebble off, we’ll all have to.
Wow. Well, as a matter of fact you’re right. I am shocked. I would have thought even an American boulderer would have behaved better than that. I can’t really find the words adequately to express my contempt, so I won’t bother trying.
For the record though your mate’s beta is complete toss. The move where people whinge about reach is low down, below the pebble. On the finish height makes no difference at all. And making the final move ‘off the pebble’ (standing on it, I assume) is all very well on a toprope; it’s not quite so prudent without. I believe my dog preferred to smear up the arete, and when you boulder out the route I recommend that you do the same. After all, once Lisa and her ilk have snapped the pebble off, we’ll all have to.
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...