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just wondering what are the hardest routes in the world and where for climbing????????
In reply to wushu:
Do you mean hardest in:
(a) a crimping-on-nothings sense,
OR
(b) a constant bombardment from tottering seracs sense?
Do you mean hardest in:
(a) a crimping-on-nothings sense,
OR
(b) a constant bombardment from tottering seracs sense?
In reply to wushu:
dani andrada's new route, la novena enmienda or something like that, rated at 9a+/9b.so technically that is probably the hardest line climbed. Think it is harder than Chris Sharma's realisation which he said was something like 5.14c.this is at Ceuse in the south of France. Dani's route is north-west? of spain.
dani andrada's new route, la novena enmienda or something like that, rated at 9a+/9b.so technically that is probably the hardest line climbed. Think it is harder than Chris Sharma's realisation which he said was something like 5.14c.this is at Ceuse in the south of France. Dani's route is north-west? of spain.
In reply to nz Cragrat: don't know,could well be but i think he may have said 5.14c on dosage. that may just be typical modest Sharma.
In reply to wushu:
What about John Gaskin's Violent New Breed at Giggleswick G-spot. 9a+ packed into 7m of climbing. Gotta be up there.
What about John Gaskin's Violent New Breed at Giggleswick G-spot. 9a+ packed into 7m of climbing. Gotta be up there.
In reply to wushu:
Hardest sport route in the world is actually Bernabe Fernandez's 'Chilam Balam'. This 80 meter stamina mega route goes at an incredible F9b+ although a few climbers (most notably Alex Huber) have disputed the grade since no other route harder than 9a+ has been confirmed. However, many of the top climbers have not made such a fuss as you'd expect. Remember when Fred Rouhling gave 'Akira' the grade of F9b ....
other sick hard routes are 'La Rambla Orignal' (F9a+), 'Realization' (F9a+), 'Violent New Breed' (F9a+), 'Akira' (F9b) .... There are a fair few, of course any route above 8a can be considered hard.
Hardest sport route in the world is actually Bernabe Fernandez's 'Chilam Balam'. This 80 meter stamina mega route goes at an incredible F9b+ although a few climbers (most notably Alex Huber) have disputed the grade since no other route harder than 9a+ has been confirmed. However, many of the top climbers have not made such a fuss as you'd expect. Remember when Fred Rouhling gave 'Akira' the grade of F9b ....
other sick hard routes are 'La Rambla Orignal' (F9a+), 'Realization' (F9a+), 'Violent New Breed' (F9a+), 'Akira' (F9b) .... There are a fair few, of course any route above 8a can be considered hard.
In reply to wushu:
gritstone e9,s and e10,s must be up there as although maybe not AS technical as bolt clipping are a lot seriouser to attempt!
indian face?
gritstone e9,s and e10,s must be up there as although maybe not AS technical as bolt clipping are a lot seriouser to attempt!
indian face?
In reply to jas wood: True. In another category again are the really BIG rock routes such as the recent route next to Angel Falls and some of the stuff on El Capitan in Yosemite. Maybe not cutting edge compared to single pitch routes but mammoth tests of stamina.
In reply to jas wood:
I completely agree that grit E8, E9, E10 are sick hard. But for PURE technical difficulty it has to be a sports climb (excluding bouldering). If you want to know the HARDEST move in the sport of mountaineeering, it will be on a boulder problem ... either on "The Wheel of Life" or on "Torino '78" both graded at an incredible V16! (V16 is the best part of 9b+ maybe even 9c for top end V16). Action Direct - the benchmark 9a - is a walk in the park compared to these! Well, actually ... no ... anything harder than 8a is never a walk in the park ... but you know what I am saying ...
Hard grit routes like Equilibrium (E10), Blind Vision (E10), High Fidelity (E11?), Dr Doolittle (E10), Parthian Shot (E9), Meshuga (E9) etc get no harder in tech difficulty than F8b+. Ok 8b+ is a sizeable grade, but compared to the 9b+ of 'Chilam Balam', 8b+ is easy! Hard grit is about mental cruxes, and keeping your nerve to make the move. Total commitment. Sports climbing has very little/no mental aspect therefore it has progressed in tech difficulty waaay further than hard trad.
I completely agree that grit E8, E9, E10 are sick hard. But for PURE technical difficulty it has to be a sports climb (excluding bouldering). If you want to know the HARDEST move in the sport of mountaineeering, it will be on a boulder problem ... either on "The Wheel of Life" or on "Torino '78" both graded at an incredible V16! (V16 is the best part of 9b+ maybe even 9c for top end V16). Action Direct - the benchmark 9a - is a walk in the park compared to these! Well, actually ... no ... anything harder than 8a is never a walk in the park ... but you know what I am saying ...
Hard grit routes like Equilibrium (E10), Blind Vision (E10), High Fidelity (E11?), Dr Doolittle (E10), Parthian Shot (E9), Meshuga (E9) etc get no harder in tech difficulty than F8b+. Ok 8b+ is a sizeable grade, but compared to the 9b+ of 'Chilam Balam', 8b+ is easy! Hard grit is about mental cruxes, and keeping your nerve to make the move. Total commitment. Sports climbing has very little/no mental aspect therefore it has progressed in tech difficulty waaay further than hard trad.
In reply to wushu:
Cobra Crack, 14c/d (8c+/9a) all natural pro
FFA Didier Berthod June 2005
Hardest gear protected climb in the world?
Cobra Crack, 14c/d (8c+/9a) all natural pro
FFA Didier Berthod June 2005
Hardest gear protected climb in the world?
In reply to SquamishRumourMill:
I thought 'Sampson' in the Peak was harder than that? Probably wrong about that tho!
I thought 'Sampson' in the Peak was harder than that? Probably wrong about that tho!
In reply to SquamishRumourMill: What style was it climbed in?
In reply to FredMead: most of those are stamina test boulder problems so V15=F9a
the hardest single move problem is still only about font8b
the hardest single move problem is still only about font8b
In reply to Marlborough Man: except perhaps on someones woody where Mr smith or mr Gaskins have probably done the hardest.
In reply to Marlborough Man:
Yeah I was wondering how many of the hardest boudler problems had more moves in than some of the hardest routes in that table.
Yeah I was wondering how many of the hardest boudler problems had more moves in than some of the hardest routes in that table.
In reply to Chris Fryer:
Having just had a look over at gripped.com, seems like someone is very close to success on Cobra Crack but hasn't quite done it? I have never seen it but the guidebooks all rave about it as a trad LGP.
Having just had a look over at gripped.com, seems like someone is very close to success on Cobra Crack but hasn't quite done it? I have never seen it but the guidebooks all rave about it as a trad LGP.
In reply to tobyfk: I saw some footage somewhere of someone working a crack somewhere in Canada, but there was loads of bomber looking preplaced gear on it. Which effectively makes it a sport route, albeit an odd one.
In reply to Chris Fryer: http://www.climbing.com/news/514crackquebec/
I suspect that you mean this one - 5.14a, and he intends to go back and attempt it with gear placed on the lead.
I suspect that you mean this one - 5.14a, and he intends to go back and attempt it with gear placed on the lead.
In reply to John2: Possibly, I'm sure I saw it at a film festival though. Will check at home, can't access that clip from work.
In reply to Marlborough Man:
Yes, I agree that 'The Wheel of Life' is a stamina mega problem and V16 because of that ... But 'Torino '78' is very short (16 moves i think). Therefore in order to get V16 it must be extrememly technical.
Yes, I agree that 'The Wheel of Life' is a stamina mega problem and V16 because of that ... But 'Torino '78' is very short (16 moves i think). Therefore in order to get V16 it must be extrememly technical.
In reply to Marlborough Man:
Plus ... 'Dreamtime SDS' in Cresciano is reported to be "hard font 8c". And Dreamtime isnt a stamina beast.
Plus ... 'Dreamtime SDS' in Cresciano is reported to be "hard font 8c". And Dreamtime isnt a stamina beast.
In reply to FredMead: 16 moves? thats a stamina prob if ever there was and only 16 moves of V1 i could do that
In reply to FredMead:
I would have thought Dreamtime needs a fair amount of stamina - it's quite a long problem. And the 8c grade has been debated. Some people say soft 8c, others say much easier. In relative terms.
I think I once read somewhere that anything over 8 moves is a stamina problem.
Not sure what the hardest single move would be - Gaskins' two V15s must be contenders - Il Pirata is only supposed to be 1 or 2 super hard moves, followed by an easier V8 sequence. And Walkaway sitstart is only about 4m high, so that's got to be pretty hard.
Maybe there's some other stuff abroad, but all the big grades in recent times seem to be for stamina problems. Are there even any other short V15s?
I would have thought Dreamtime needs a fair amount of stamina - it's quite a long problem. And the 8c grade has been debated. Some people say soft 8c, others say much easier. In relative terms.
I think I once read somewhere that anything over 8 moves is a stamina problem.
Not sure what the hardest single move would be - Gaskins' two V15s must be contenders - Il Pirata is only supposed to be 1 or 2 super hard moves, followed by an easier V8 sequence. And Walkaway sitstart is only about 4m high, so that's got to be pretty hard.
Maybe there's some other stuff abroad, but all the big grades in recent times seem to be for stamina problems. Are there even any other short V15s?
In reply to robin mueller:
Yeah, acually i tried 'Walkaway' SDS not so long ago (i cant climb v15 but just wanted to see!). The moves are so hard its unbelieveable. You can hardly even notice the holds, let alone hold them! Yeah Walkway SDS is bloody hard. But Dreamtime isnt all that long to be honest ... go to www.benmoon.co.uk and look at the vid of Mr Smith doing it.
Yeah, Gaskins' stuff is hard, 'Violent New Breed' has got to have some hard moves because it is the same grade as 'Realization' but nowhere near as long.
Anyway ... food for thought
Yeah, acually i tried 'Walkaway' SDS not so long ago (i cant climb v15 but just wanted to see!). The moves are so hard its unbelieveable. You can hardly even notice the holds, let alone hold them! Yeah Walkway SDS is bloody hard. But Dreamtime isnt all that long to be honest ... go to www.benmoon.co.uk and look at the vid of Mr Smith doing it.
Yeah, Gaskins' stuff is hard, 'Violent New Breed' has got to have some hard moves because it is the same grade as 'Realization' but nowhere near as long.
Anyway ... food for thought
In reply to FredMead:
I watched that video. I also watched a few other vids of people doing it. I remember a few of us were sitting around a computer squinting at the tiny vid of wossisname doing it at night. You could hardly see a thing as it was all so dark, but we all thought OH MY GOODNESS IT JUST KEEPS ON GOING!
Ok, so it's not in the same league as wheel of life for stamina, but it's a pretty long problem.
I watched that video. I also watched a few other vids of people doing it. I remember a few of us were sitting around a computer squinting at the tiny vid of wossisname doing it at night. You could hardly see a thing as it was all so dark, but we all thought OH MY GOODNESS IT JUST KEEPS ON GOING!
Ok, so it's not in the same league as wheel of life for stamina, but it's a pretty long problem.
In reply to FredMead:
"Sports climbing has very little/no mental aspect..."
That's one of the funniest things I've ever read on UKC.
"Sports climbing has very little/no mental aspect..."
That's one of the funniest things I've ever read on UKC.
In reply to robin mueller:
Are you talking about "Pilgrimage" that 9a that Smith does? That is sweet isnt it. You know, it may not be in the same leauge as "The Wheel Of Life" but its getting there!
Are you talking about "Pilgrimage" that 9a that Smith does? That is sweet isnt it. You know, it may not be in the same leauge as "The Wheel Of Life" but its getting there!
In reply to robin mueller:
And a bit off subject Robin, (sorry everyone else in this thread) but what is Norwich Uni like, i am at the stage where I have to start looking at Unis.
Fred
And a bit off subject Robin, (sorry everyone else in this thread) but what is Norwich Uni like, i am at the stage where I have to start looking at Unis.
Fred
In reply to FredMead:
No, I'm talking about Dreamtime. I've seen the Pilgrimmage thingy and yes, that goes on for ages.
As for norwich uni, what do you want to know? I loved it, but everyone has different requirements. As far as climbing goes, it's 4 hours to the peak, though the climbing club is keen (or was when I was there). That's pretty much the closest place if you want to go outside. But a big plus is the uni climbing wall - which is on campus and only costs a quid off peak, for as long as you want, which is brilliant. If you are into bouldering. there's a great little cave at the wall which I spent much of my uni life in, doing eliminates up to around V8, so if training is your thing it's fine. Not such a great wall for doing routes though, as they don't get changed very often.
What else? The campus is nice - very friendly and everything is handy. The town is full of pubs and stuff. Lots of alternative venues and arty stuff. An arthouse cinema. Loads of gigs. Loads of gigs and things at the uni as well, played regularly by some decent bands.
Um... Ask me anything else you want to know, I'd be happy to help. Drop me an email if you want, or just post here...
No, I'm talking about Dreamtime. I've seen the Pilgrimmage thingy and yes, that goes on for ages.
As for norwich uni, what do you want to know? I loved it, but everyone has different requirements. As far as climbing goes, it's 4 hours to the peak, though the climbing club is keen (or was when I was there). That's pretty much the closest place if you want to go outside. But a big plus is the uni climbing wall - which is on campus and only costs a quid off peak, for as long as you want, which is brilliant. If you are into bouldering. there's a great little cave at the wall which I spent much of my uni life in, doing eliminates up to around V8, so if training is your thing it's fine. Not such a great wall for doing routes though, as they don't get changed very often.
What else? The campus is nice - very friendly and everything is handy. The town is full of pubs and stuff. Lots of alternative venues and arty stuff. An arthouse cinema. Loads of gigs. Loads of gigs and things at the uni as well, played regularly by some decent bands.
Um... Ask me anything else you want to know, I'd be happy to help. Drop me an email if you want, or just post here...
In reply to Dom Orsler:
There is a common tendancy for equating clipping up a bolted convenience routes with sport climbing.
There is a common tendancy for equating clipping up a bolted convenience routes with sport climbing.
In reply to FredMead:
An unfortunate turn of phrase, perhaps. Of course sport climbing has a mental aspect in the same degree as any other sport. Immense mental preparation and readiness is required to succeed on-sight, or even working a hard sports route. The mental aspect is different from that required for hard trad, but there's more to the mental component of climbing than 'fear of death'.
> Sports climbing has very little/no mental aspect therefore it has progressed in tech difficulty waaay further than hard trad.
An unfortunate turn of phrase, perhaps. Of course sport climbing has a mental aspect in the same degree as any other sport. Immense mental preparation and readiness is required to succeed on-sight, or even working a hard sports route. The mental aspect is different from that required for hard trad, but there's more to the mental component of climbing than 'fear of death'.
In reply to wushu:
The last climb you couldn't get up?
> just wondering what are the hardest routes in the world and where for climbing????????
The last climb you couldn't get up?
In reply to Stefan Kruger:
Indeed. 'Fear of banging one's knee really hard' is further up my list.
> (In reply to FredMead)
> there's more to the mental component of climbing than 'fear of death'.
Indeed. 'Fear of banging one's knee really hard' is further up my list.
In reply to Stefan Kruger:
Yeah, well obviously ... but I meant the mental aspect of screwing up the crux and smashing into pieces on the boulders below. Yeah, mental preparation is a key to climbing any hard route or any route at the extreme of your grade. But this type of mental preparation involves thinking of the route, thinking of the crux and the exact order the moves go (assuming redpoint not onsight) and psyching yourself up for climbing through the pain barrier when your arms scream for you to stop! This is a very different type of "mental" than trying to headpoint an extremely difficult and dangerous route like Equilibrium at Burbage.
Yeah, well obviously ... but I meant the mental aspect of screwing up the crux and smashing into pieces on the boulders below. Yeah, mental preparation is a key to climbing any hard route or any route at the extreme of your grade. But this type of mental preparation involves thinking of the route, thinking of the crux and the exact order the moves go (assuming redpoint not onsight) and psyching yourself up for climbing through the pain barrier when your arms scream for you to stop! This is a very different type of "mental" than trying to headpoint an extremely difficult and dangerous route like Equilibrium at Burbage.
In reply to robin mueller:
Thanks for the info on Norwich, unfortunately they dont do the course I am interested in so there is not much point talking about it! Thanks very much anyway.
Thanks for the info on Norwich, unfortunately they dont do the course I am interested in so there is not much point talking about it! Thanks very much anyway.
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