UKC

I recently ruptured the A4 pully of my ring finger. I haven't climbed for three weeks now which is very frustrating. Could anyone please tell me anything about this hot/cold treament i've been hearing of?

I have been doing a deep finger massage over the affected area but this doesn't seem to have helped much.

In reply to antonolious:

This may help:

Q: What is the most effective treatment for various soft tissue injuries associated with rock climbing?

If caught during the early phases, most overuse injuries respond well to treatment and you can return to climbing pain-free much sooner than if the injury is ignored. Severe cases of tendonitis, trigger finger, or acute injuries such as a dislocation or ruptured tendon may require steroid injection of surgery. The most important thing to do when you suspect an injury is to STOP CLIMBING! (duh!) Testing injured parts or attempting to "climb through it" will only make things worse and shorten your climbing career. Climbing coach and author Eric Horst provides the following guidelines for treating soft tissue injuries:

PHASES OF REHABILITATION

1. RICE 3 days - 2 Weeks
Rest, Ice, Compression, Elevation and an anti-inflammatory medication such as ibuprofen will speed recovery by reducing swelling.

2. Range of Motion Exercises 3 days -6 Weeks
Working the joint through its range of motion will keep recovering tissues limber and gradually strengthen muscles and tendons.

3. Progressive Resistance Exercises 1-6 Weeks
Low intensity resistance exercises using a stretchy rubber strap will build strength progressively, preparing you for a return to normal activity.

4. Reintegrating the Injured Part 1-6 Weeks
Even though the joint may not hurt anymore, you should ease into a return to climbing by working easy routes at low intensity. Don't slip into a relapse during this critical phase.

Total time from Injury = 3 Weeks - 5 Months

These are just rough guidelines, only an experienced sports therapist or orthopedic doctor can recommend the right course of treatment. If possible ask around and try to find someone experienced in treating climbers.

Q: Does finger taping help prevent injury or provide support for damaged tendons?

The jury is still out on this one. Although many climbers tape their fingers, the only proven benefit is protecting the skin from abrasion. Furthermore, relying on tape to support your pulley tendons could prevent them from growing stronger as your body relies on the tape for support rather than strengthening the tendons. From my personal experience and the advice of a sports therapist at the University of Oregon, I would suggest using tape to support recovering tendons during the 4th phase of recovery, but gradually wean the finger off of the tape.

 For more information visit the following Resources:


Climbing Injuries by Alison McFarlane



Hand Injuries in Rock Climbing: Reaching the Right Treatment Peter J. L. Jebson, MD; Curtis M. Steyers, MD THE PHYSICIAN AND SPORTSMEDICINE - VOL 25 - NO. 5 - MAY 97

Patient's Guide to Trigger Finger by The Medical Multimedia Group

In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:

Thanks Mick, some good advice which i will take into account during this difficult time

In reply to antonolious:

Probably a lot of scar tissue there which causes pain and restricts movement.

You need to increase circulation to promote healing, hence the hot and cold treatment which reduces swelling and increases blood flow.

You've got to do the ice/hot 3 or 4 times a day....as well as the massage.

Somebody like JoP who is a physio and posts on here will have good advice.

In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA: Personally I've always found that a half decent physio armed with decent massage technique and and ultrasound machine can rid you of the scar tissue in a week or so.

In reply to Carnage:

Both is best...self-help and pro' help

In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA: What should be got across is that continual massaging of the scar tissue simply re-injures over and over again. It only needs to be done once of twice and followed with stretching to allow healing naturaly.