disagree - often, good flexibility does mean you don't have to use strength sometimes though. i'll be the first to admit that there are times that raw power is the only thing needed though. at that point i go home.
Probaly intermediate, if they flexed as much as some of the positions in yoga they would not have the muscle needed to climb hard strenuous routes.
Flexibility is important as I have found. Handy to be able to do the splits on wide bridges and step very high and step up.
In reply to oakapple:
I don't think it is possible to generalize like that. But it would make sense to say that being smaller requires more flexibility to reach footholds that are further away with legs and arms.
Depends which way you look at it, there is no definitive answer.
In reply to oakapple: Getting yourself into different positions is not just about flexibility, also can be to do with range of movement on a joint, e.g. I can't stand with my legs straight and touch my toes which is related to flexibility but i can lock my legs behind my head which is to do with range of movement in the hip joint.
So would you say that range of joint movement is the more important than muscle flexibilty. Usually the stronger a muscle the more limited the range of movement i.e touching hands over you shoulder most people can only touch one way because their dominant arm's shoulder is stronger and consequently tighter than the other.
"Flexibility, as assessed by the sit and reach test, has been reported to be not significantly different between elite climbers, recreational climbers, and non-climber. Range of motion, measured at the hip and shoulder, does not appear to relate to climbing ability."
From personal experience I'd say that having good hip turnout is usefull for getting weight over your feet.
> (In reply to oakapple)
> From this study:
> http://bjsm.bmjjournals.com/cgi/content/full/38/3/355 >
> "Flexibility, as assessed by the sit and reach test, has been reported to be not significantly different between elite climbers, recreational climbers, and non-climber. Range of motion, measured at the hip and shoulder, does not appear to relate to climbing ability."
In reply to can't log is cause of cooki:
>In reply to ebygomm: you're all freaks!
> i.e touching hands over you shoulder most people can only touch one way because their dominant arm's shoulder is stronger and consequently tighter than the other.
i can't touch either way, not even close, not even if someone else gets my hands and tries to make them touch. Mind you can't even put my arms straight out in front with my palms facing upwards so i guess I am a freak!
In reply to oakapple: Remember there's flexibility and there's 'active flexibility'. For example, how far can you lift your foot up by pushing it up with something, and how far can you lift your foot up under your own power? That's the kind of flexibility that really matters.
> (how far can you lift your foot up under your own power?
I frequently use my hands to place a foot on a hold I couldn't otherwise reach (much to the amusement of my climbing partners). That's lifting my foot under my own power but i don't think that's quite what you mean!
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