UKC

It was supposed to be a warm up climb before 'Cleopatra' but Peascod's Buckstone How classic VS proved to be more a ego puncturing wake up call for someone who has been out on the rock all to infrequently in the last year.
Patrolling up and down a crag trying to locate a route doesn't help calm the nerves either but when we eventually settled on SG the first pitch did seem a bit scruffy and heathery for a two star route.
I'm afraid the exit through the groove above past a huge dubious looking flake which looked to be cemented in by mud and veg alone and requiring a sort of bastard lay-back move, did my head in...by the time I was underneath the clean V groove which provides the meat of the 2nd pitch I'd had enough and abbed off yet another dubious looking block.
No excuses...perfect conditions at the weekend but no heart for the fight.
At this stage someone usually butts in and says 'Well I soloed it in Doc Martens in a blizzard and found it about V Diff' to you...fcuk off !
Incidentally,despite Buckstone being virtually a roadside crag it doesn't appear to get much patronage these days.Perhaps it's not just me who finds it a strange unfriendly and unforgiving crag.
On a positive note...Isn't 'Lorton's Gully' on Grasmoor a great scramble ! Did it in perfect conditions with,amongst others my 11 year old youngest son and 12 year old step-daughter. Glad we had a rope which was dragged out about six times to protect some tricky-for young novices-rock steps.
Even though Liam,my 19 year old, slipped on the rope and came within an inch of tumbing over the edge and disappearing down the gully.
Perhaps it's time I took up something safe like archery...then again I'd probably end up putting an arrow in someone's back !

In reply to Jonno:
Glad to here somebody else had a hard time on this well named route! Fortunately I had an enthusiastic second who took the lead when I got too p*ssed off to carry on the battle. Wouldn't care but we'd been climbing much 'harder' all week. Ego puncturing indeed!

In reply to Jonno:

Yep did sinister groove a couple of weekends ago and must say I was incrediably disappointed. The first pitch,as you say Jonno, is very heathery and not that interesting, the 2nd pitch is a real b****d of a struggle and then a short wall followed by rapidly detoriating climbing.

I honestly wouldn't recommned the route and presume it only gets stars for some historical significance.

Cleopatra on the other hand is excellent - 3 really good pitches and definately a classic - huge contrast with SG. And on a perfect saturday we were the only pair at the crag.

In reply to Jonno:

We did it after a club dinner and it seemed ok if a bit loose in places. Of course there are no details as the alcohol drunk in the Derwentw*ter the night before washed the brain cells out as well.

Read the original BB description of Cleopatra, he mentions a possible belay on one pitch that suggests to me he never did the route.

In reply to JonnyH: I think you mean enthusiastic and highly skilled second...

Yes that groove was a bit of a nightmare- required some bonkers move to get out of it. Needless to say the next day saw me being lowered off halfway up Finale at Shepard's- is it not one the hardest HVS's in the Lakes?? (Obviously just because I couldn't do it!!)

Would like to go back and have a go at Cleopatra some day

In reply to Fast Eddie:

No! Enthusiastic in a slightly irritating way. And obviously very lucky indeed to have made the moves! We were quite content drinking beer until you turned up.