UKC

Being a relative newcomer to all this "rock climbing" malarkey, sometimes I can read a thread on here and not have a clue what you people are on about.

Here is an opportunity to both inform and totally confuse someone - please don't let me down.

I'll start by asking what do you mean when you say a section is "run out" or "thuggy"?

In reply to MonkeyPuzzle:

Run out is when there is a section without much or any decent protection, so you are climbing well above your last bit of gear...

Thuggy probably means brute force and strength are the way to get through that section, rather than finesse, technique, balance, skill, and experience...

In reply to MonkeyPuzzle:

Run out is where there is a huge gap between two pieces of gear, so if you fall off your going to fall far.

Thuggy is using lots of strength and not much technique, such a roof with massive jugs is thuggy.

In reply to MonkeyPuzzle: If a route is run out it means you go a long way above your gear. Thuggy means steep with necessity for strength ie Snug as a Thug on a Jug.

Have another - Spicy: can mean a bit scary, possibly run out "Ooh that was a bit spicy".

Luke

In reply to MonkeyPuzzle: A rather subtle bit of jargon I'm quite fond of is 'pokey'. I did a route the day that is described perfectly by that slightly odd adjective.

In reply to JoshOvki: Does this hold for a woman with massive jugs too?

In reply to MonkeyPuzzle: That's those two anwered, got any others?

In reply to Dominion:

"flagging" is when you have to extend a limb, in order to preserve balance in order to make a move, and - for example - stop you falling over sideways when you reach for a hold, or to place a bit of gear...

||-)

In reply to Dominion:

"Smearing" is when you use the flat of your hand or foot to generate friction in order to aid your upwards progress, rather than to pull on, or step on a hold.

||-)

In reply to MonkeyPuzzle:

Get stuck into this:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=33


Chris

In reply to Dominion: Or, alternatively, is what results from falling from a great height.

For the OP: there is a glossary on the site, a search will find it.

T.

In reply to MonkeyPuzzle:
Necky - a tad on the scary canary side of things.
Udging - not using any technique in particular but gaining ground millimetre by millimetre (chimney's and off widths usually).
Offwidth - a crack that nothing fits properly which is overcome with much swearing and body jams :O) (some people love'em).
Thumb sprag - using the opposing force of your thumb.
gaston - Hard to explain !
Lob - a fall (usually involuntary)
Monster - a strong climber.
sandbag - a climb which is way harder than the grading suggests.
Highball - high routes done over a few mats for protection and the rope left behind.
Shelf shuffling - trad climbing ;O)

In reply to jas wood: Bollox i spent an age coming up with them :O(

In reply to Dominion: I thought smearing with your hands was something more often done by the mentally ill.

Apologies for any offence caused.

In reply to Pursued by a bear:


True. But this is a way to give a more personal, or alternate view to a "glossary" definition.


It's not easy to find this:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=33

In reply to Jon Stewart:

No offence - I'm smearing right now.

In reply to MonkeyPuzzle: Top tip: When venturing out in winter as a newbie and a really weathered, bearded hardcore looking climber describes your chosen route as " a bit gnarly but you'll like it" what he really means is that watching you cack yourself from a distance is going to make for a great pub tale.....git....

In reply to Dominion: Very true. I was posting from a phone and my tea was on the way, which meant satisfying my hunger took precedence over finding the glossary and including it in the post.

T.

In reply to MonkeyPuzzle:


Send.



To place an item in the mail.

In reply to Paul F:

Ah, I know that one. Someone said I should only do thatt with my top off?

In reply to MonkeyPuzzle: Desmond; a balletic movement. After Archbishop Tutu.

T.

In reply to Pursued by a bear:

or fall to the ground, as in a Desmond Dekker

In reply to MonkeyPuzzle:

All things should be done with your top off and a beany on. Come to think of it there is a word for those guys.... what is it now...?

In reply to Twinkle:


Semi-naked silly hat wearer?

Although that's more of a phrase than a word...

In reply to Paul F: I was posting in the spirit expressed by Dominion at 20.13.

T.

In reply to MonkeyPuzzle: sprag. Something impenetrable that boulderers do.

In reply to Dominion:

I think the word that I'd use would depend on how hot they were to be honest.

How about "aaargrbastid" - I've come off a problem and hurt myself

In reply to MonkeyPuzzle:

Climbing was originally a non-competitive sport, but times change. Maintain your place in the pecking order by using the following terminology:

Punter - anyone who climbs a lower grade than you
Wad - anyone who climbs a harder grade than you

In reply to danm:

In reply to MonkeyPuzzle:

Useful one - Thrutch/ing

Really ungraceful climbing usually up a groove/feature where instead of using holds you just sort of panic and scrape all limbs in a roughly downward direction to achieve vertical progress.

Doing a Sharma - Screaming while dynoing for a hold
Doing a Ondra - Screaming in frustration when you fall off
Doing a Brick - Screaming while belaying because everyone else seems to be screaming

In reply to Dominion:


A tw*t with a mat

In reply to Kemics:



Doing a Kenton - Selling out to sponsors

In reply to MonkeyPuzzle:

Beta - a term used by Gamma minuses

In reply to MonkeyPuzzle:

If a route is "run out" then it is considered to be "bold" or to "offer some excitement"

"Thuggy" routes can also be described as "burly" and often require a lot of "thrutch".

Hope that clears things up.

In reply to MonkeyPuzzle:
I was psyched to do that gnarl pitch but it turned out to be path.
I was up for doing that difficult section of climbing, but it in fact was easy.

In reply to MonkeyPuzzle:

"The friction isn't very good today."

Can be translated as:

"I'm a big wet lettuce who panics when both feet are off the ground."

In reply to blanchie14c: Just because no-ones paying you to do something you'd be doing for free anyway... I could go on, but the jargon discussion is more entertaining

In reply to MonkeyPuzzle:

"Come on arms do your stuff"



means - "I watch to many retro videos and need to get out more"

In reply to MonkeyPuzzle:
Elvis leg: where one leg starts shaking uncontrollably, usually while you placing gear and are convinced you're about to fall off.

Similarly -
Shaking like a sh*tting dog: speaks for itself really

In reply to MonkeyPuzzle:

Delicate - no footholds
Balancy - no handholds

Delicate and balancy - good luck...

In reply to PaleMan:

Excellent summary