UKC

Lead Climbing on an Alpine Harness.

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 ClimbForFun 24 Aug 2011
Hello,

Is it safe to lead climb on a alpine harness, with a single tie in loop, like those often hired from climbing walls?

The reason for asking is a friend of mine has forgotten his harness and may have to borrow a centre harness. He seemed to think it shouldn't make any difference. I once heard someone say otherwise so I just wondered if anyone with a bit more experience could offer some advice. We will probably ask at the centre too anyway.
 Legionreturns 24 Aug 2011
In reply to ClimbForFun:

I regularly lead in my super coulair dmm, I tie in using the waist band and leg loops.
In reply to ClimbForFun: worst case scenario is that his manhood may take a beating if he was to take a fall but I doubt (highly) that it will break. Actually, I was being a little too pessimistic there. It will not break and I will eat my hat if it does!
 JayK 24 Aug 2011
In reply to ClimbForFun:

As already stated above, it's just a lot more uncomfortable to fall in...
dan 24 Aug 2011
In reply to ClimbForFun: As above they are fine to climb in, but a lot of walls won`t allow lead climbing in hire harnesses as the wear is greater if the hireer?... is taking falls and such.
 JayK 24 Aug 2011
In reply to dan:

depends on how fat the hirer is...
In reply to dan:
> (In reply to ClimbForFun) As above they are fine to climb in, but a lot of walls won`t allow lead climbing in hire harnesses as the wear is greater if the hireer?... is taking falls and such.

I don't think I have ever come across a wall that does that and if I did I'd tell them they were talking bollox
 Ed Bright 24 Aug 2011
In reply to higherclimbingwales:
> his manhood may take a beating if he was to take a fall but I doubt (highly) that it will break.

Now there's something you never want to happen!
ice.solo 24 Aug 2011
In reply to ClimbForFun:

they are not alpine harnesses.

but anyway, seems to me that a fall in a hire harness doesnt drop you as much into the seated position.

im not 100% about this, but had it explained to me by canyoning guides who use a similar designed harness where its all rappelling.
 Tamati 24 Aug 2011
In reply to ClimbForFun:

Have you lot learned anything from Cliffhanger?!
 Blue Straggler 24 Aug 2011
In reply to ClimbForFun:


Yes, but only in the Alps
Will be fine, I've done it plenty. As others have said, it's obviously more uncomfortable in a fall (non-padded) and might not put you into the best "seated" position, but it's safe enough.
OP ClimbForFun 26 Aug 2011
Thanks guys! When we asked, it turned out that the centre didn't allow people to lead on their hired harnesses.
dan 26 Aug 2011
In reply to higherclimbingwales: Well, that's the centre the op went to and the one I used to manage, thats two...
Would you buy a second hand harness, not knowing if it had had many falls, I doubt it, well same goes for hire gear, if leading is accepted on hire gear the centre will have no idea if the harness has had any big falls, and if it does fail in use it's the managers neck on the line.
 deepsoup 27 Aug 2011
In reply to dan:
> if leading is accepted on hire gear the centre will have no idea if the harness has had any big falls

Of course they will. If the fall was "big" enough to damage the harness in any way they'll remember calling an ambulance for the punter who was wearing it at the time.
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