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Mainland Greece Guidebooks

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 Miskawroe 20 Aug 2025

Planning an October roadtrip to Greece for 10 days. Looking to climb at Varasova, Mytikas, Leonidio & Kyparissi.

I know there's two choices of guidebook for Leonidio & Kyparissi.

Can someone recommend which guidebook for Varasova & Mytikas? I saw there is a 'best of Greece sport climbing' - which seems to cover all 4 areas. Will it have enough info about Leonidio & Kyparissi, or should I definitely buy one of the specific guidebooks for those 2 areas?

Thanks

OP Miskawroe 20 Aug 2025
In reply to Miskawroe:

Also if anyone has any of these and is willing to sell

 dominic o 20 Aug 2025
In reply to Miskawroe:

We managed an eight-week roadtrip to Greece using the Aris Greece Sport Climbing guide, so you should be fine for 10 days. Having said that, there has been a huge amount of development in Leonidio since it was published. You used to be able to get all the content on the Vertical Life app so you could go for a 1 month subscription?

Trip reports to dozens of crags across Greece, including the ones you mentioned, here:

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/category/greece/

Enjoy! Cheers, Dom 

 heleno 21 Aug 2025
In reply to Miskawroe:

Just worth noting that to climb at Varasova you would need to cross the Rio-Antirio bridge which has a toll of about 15 euros each way for a car and about 24 euros for a campervan.  Particularly if you're in a van, it may be worth staying on the Peloponnese peninsula where there are loads of other crags - though the bridge is quite spectacular if you don't mind spashing out on the tolls.

OP Miskawroe 21 Aug 2025
In reply to dominic o:

Thanks Dom, will definitely have a read of those reports!

OP Miskawroe 21 Aug 2025
In reply to heleno:

Thanks for letting me know, unfortunately we pretty much have to drive that way as we are picking my mate up from Preveza…

 heleno 21 Aug 2025
In reply to Miskawroe:

> Thanks for letting me know, unfortunately we pretty much have to drive that way as we are picking my mate up from Preveza…

Well Varasova is a lovely spot, and as I said previously, the bridge crossing is quite spectacular.

 jimtitt 21 Aug 2025
In reply to heleno:

You don't have to use the bridge, the road over the Corinth canal still exists!

 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 21 Aug 2025
In reply to Miskawroe:

> Planning an October roadtrip to Greece for 10 days. Looking to climb at Varasova, Mytikas, Leonidio & Kypariss

We did a couple of tours of the Mainland a few years back, using Aris's guide - all really excellent venues and pretty quiet to deserted - I wrote an article about it at the time:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/destinations/greece_-_in_search_of_soli...

Chris

 Bob Peters 06:10 Tue
In reply to Miskawroe:

Highly recommend checking out the newly developed upper tier at Mytikas. Not in any guidebooks but the couple of routes we did were very high quality.

I have the old guide to Varasova, with all the gnarly long trad routes in it but missing some of the newer sport. Welcome to borrow - I'll DM you.

I don't have the Aris guide but have been searching for it for a while. If you do find a copy and don't want it after your trip I'll happily buy it off you!


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