A small group of us will be heading to the Lake District in the middle of August. The intention is to get as many multi-pitch routes in during the 5 days we are there. Good long mountain days out. Besides combing the Rockfax guidebook for Top 50 routes I'd be grateful for any recommendations for "must dos". We will be based in Langdale and will have access to cars to travel around if required. Onsight grade is VS, though we are more fussed with mileage and good scenery along the way.
Thanks in advance.
Pretty much all that's going to happen here is name checking of the rockfax top 50 and other 3 star routes. You'll not go wrong by sticking to them.
Have you climbed in the Lakes before?
Only when I took someone up Brown Slabs as an intro to outdoor climbing.
Just go an do all the classics that are VS and below in that case - can't go far wrong!
there are good ticklists on here with all the classics on them like the Borrowdale VSs, subscribe to a few and you'll have a blast.
I certainly don't have enough Lakes experience of offer anything beyond the obvious, but Tophet Wall is absolutely stunning for the ground it covers at the grade. And it was a long time ago but I remember Engineer's Slabs being pretty impressive too.
Bowfell Buttress is another absolute gem of a climb
thank you that's helpful.
Added to the list, thank you.
Gimmer, White Ghyll, Pavey Ark, Bowfell - all Langdale crags and all wonderful places to climb.
Dow is only a short drive away in Coniston. Plenty of great routes on there.
If the weather settles down, get to Scafell. If it's still a bit unsettled but you're keen for big mountain routes try Pikes crag on Scafell Pike.
Oh, and there's Esk Buttress too, walkable from Langdale if you don't mind a big day.
Probably don't need to get in the car
Day at Gimmer
Day at White Ghyll
Day on Pavey
Day on Raven
Mountain day on Bowfell butress
Weather poor, scrambling on the Langdale Pikes
Edit - Mark E - they let you out of the ghyll then 😁
If you’re based in Langdale you really must have a day on Gimmer. Plenty of multi pitch routes at all grades and you can link single pitch routes together (eg North West Arête then F route). Weather dependent of course! It’s not been great up here recently.
Thanks Mark a great itinerary.
Gimmer is definitely on the list. After watching the Arcteryx Lakeland revival video of Oliversons Variation I'm keen to take a look at that. Other great routes at the higher grades as well.
If you find yourself at castle rock and its dry do overhanging bastion! I did it again last year and it's an absolute belter of a route! Little bit lichenous because it didn't get climbed for years due to the large detached block, but that gave it a new routing type feeling.
Oliversons variation is a brilliant route. Takes a tour of the upper crag
Ha ha, back in the ghyll in the morning ;-)
top was a bit adventurous last year, lot of big scary loose stuff
Little bit left field, yet accessible, is climbing the main face of Pike O'Stickle whichever way you fancy (guidebooks not particularly useful). Round about vdiff, following your nose. Various bits of scrambly ground to where it steepens (the Grey Band) then a beautiful sweep of slabs at about diff to the summit. It's brilliant!
Another vote for Tophet Wall
Eliminate A on Dow Crag one of the best VSs I’ve ever done.
North West Arête on Gimmer (I appreciate it only a single pitch but such an great route but the suggestion for the link up with F route sounds great - not done the route yet)
Lots of great VSs at Shephard’s although a significant drive from Langdale
The "proper" guide gives details of a very good enchantment of the Langdale crags which is worth seeking out.
I would say to to Scafell and Pillar. Both amazing crags with big long routes either high or remote in the mountains.
> The "proper" guide gives details of a very good enchantment of the Langdale crags which is worth seeking out.
I think you mean enchainment but (presumably) your spell checker has found a much better word 😀
You can always take a short rope and split NW Arete into two 😁 Probably how it was originally done.
> Scafell and Pillar.
As long as the weather is right
If you're climbing VS, I wouldn't go with Oliverson's. I'd link North-west Arete or Asterisk into F Route or D Route; or do Bracket and Slab (S) or The Cracks (VS) to the top, then ab down for F Route.
White Ghyll has some absolutely stunner VS routes, e.g. Ethics of Heather, Slip Knot, Haste Not, Gordian Knot and White Ghyll Wall. Laugh Not is a stunning and very well-protected HVS, too, though quite technical for HVS. Great location.
According to many, the VS of the Lakes is Eliminate A on Dow. Murray's Route could be a good warm up - a top-draw Severe.
If you're up for a long day and you get the weather, you could do Gillercombe Buttress (S 4a in 5 or 6 pitches) into Engineer's Slabs (VS), then perhaps bivi and climb the next day on the Napes, Scafell or Pillar Rock. Napes Needle is memorable, despite the modest grade.
Grey Crags (Buttermere) is also really worthwhile.
I am intrigued...what guide is this you speak of?
Well, if you’re in Borrowdale then Troutdale Pinnacle is a grand route with a stunning aspect. Hard severe (if I recall correctly)
And for a shorter but varied and exciting VS, you could try Ardus on Shepherds
This is really helpful, thank you.
I'm glad if it's helpful. P.s. Borrowdale is very full at the weekend at the moment, and hard to park. I wouldn't bother with Shepherds simply because every time I've driven past recently the limited parking has been chock full. Anywhere you go at the weekend, if you move your car, it's worth arriving early. Felltops are quiet though! ;)
Did this finishing on Pavey as we needed to a get back (and it was November) what a great day out!
William Chan has been climbing for 11 years based out of Hong Kong. Previously a volleyball player, he realised that the 'lifestyle' aspect of climbing suited him more and going on climbing trips and meeting different communities was much more...