Loading Notifications...

Multi-pitch in the Lake District

Please Register as a New User in order to reply to this topic.
 JayWhiting 28 Jul 2020

A small group of us will be heading to the Lake District in the middle of August. The intention is to get as many multi-pitch routes in during the 5 days we are there. Good long mountain days out. Besides combing the Rockfax guidebook for Top 50 routes I'd be grateful for any recommendations for "must dos". We will be based in Langdale and will have access to cars to travel around if required. Onsight grade is VS, though we are more fussed with mileage and good scenery along the way.

Thanks in advance.  

Report
 DaveHK 28 Jul 2020
In reply to JayWhiting:

Pretty much all that's going to happen here is name checking of the rockfax top 50 and other 3 star routes. You'll not go wrong by sticking to them.

Report
 NickR 28 Jul 2020
In reply to JayWhiting:

Have you climbed in the Lakes before?

Report
 JayWhiting 28 Jul 2020
In reply to NickR:

Only when I took someone up Brown Slabs as an intro to outdoor climbing. 

Report
 ianstevens 28 Jul 2020
In reply to JayWhiting:

Just go an do all the classics that are VS and below in that case - can't go far wrong!

Report
 lithos 28 Jul 2020
In reply to JayWhiting:

there are good ticklists on here with all the classics on them like the Borrowdale VSs,  subscribe to a few and you'll have a blast.

Report
 AlanLittle 28 Jul 2020
In reply to JayWhiting:

I certainly don't have enough Lakes experience of offer anything beyond the obvious, but Tophet Wall is absolutely stunning for the ground it covers at the grade. And it was a long time ago but I remember Engineer's Slabs being pretty impressive too.

Report
 Trangia 28 Jul 2020
In reply to JayWhiting:

Bowfell Buttress is another absolute gem of a climb

Report
 JayWhiting 28 Jul 2020
In reply to lithos:

thank you that's helpful.

Report
 JayWhiting 28 Jul 2020
In reply to AlanLittle:

Added to the list, thank you.

Report
 Mark Eddy 28 Jul 2020
In reply to JayWhiting:

Gimmer, White Ghyll, Pavey Ark, Bowfell - all Langdale crags and all wonderful places to climb.

Dow is only a short drive away in Coniston. Plenty of great routes on there.

If the weather settles down, get to Scafell. If it's still a bit unsettled but you're keen for big mountain routes try Pikes crag on Scafell Pike.

Oh, and there's Esk Buttress too, walkable from Langdale if you don't mind a big day.

Report
 John Kelly 28 Jul 2020
In reply to JayWhiting:

Probably don't need to get in the car

Day at Gimmer

Day at White Ghyll

Day on Pavey

Day on Raven

Mountain day on Bowfell butress

Weather poor, scrambling on the Langdale Pikes

Edit - Mark E - they let you out of the ghyll then 😁

Post edited at 18:10
Report
 NickR 28 Jul 2020
In reply to JayWhiting:

If you’re based in Langdale you really must have a day on Gimmer.  Plenty of multi pitch routes at all grades and you can link single pitch routes together (eg North West Arête then F route).  Weather dependent of course!  It’s not been great up here recently.

Report
 JayWhiting 28 Jul 2020
In reply to Mark Eddy:

Thanks Mark a great itinerary.

Report
 JayWhiting 28 Jul 2020
In reply to NickR:

Gimmer is definitely on the list. After watching the Arcteryx Lakeland revival video of Oliversons Variation I'm keen to take a look at that. Other great routes at the higher grades as well.

Report
 mike123 28 Jul 2020
In reply to JayWhiting: watch the weather carefully . Be prepared to change plans at the drop of a hat and jump in the car to the next valley over or up t north lakes . It can be sunny in the north lakes , when it's raining in the south lakes and vice versa . it can be raining down borrodale and not at castle rock  and so on . 

Report
 Baron Weasel 28 Jul 2020
In reply to JayWhiting:

If you find yourself at castle rock and its dry do overhanging bastion! I did it again last year and it's an absolute belter of a route! Little bit lichenous because it didn't get climbed for years due to the large detached block, but that gave it a new routing type feeling. 

Report
 Mark Eddy 28 Jul 2020
In reply to JayWhiting:

Oliversons variation is a brilliant route. Takes a tour of the upper crag

Report
 Mark Eddy 28 Jul 2020
In reply to John Kelly:

Ha ha, back in the ghyll in the morning ;-)

Report
 John Kelly 28 Jul 2020
In reply to Baron Weasel:

top was a bit adventurous last year, lot of big scary loose stuff 

Report
In reply to JayWhiting:

Little bit left field, yet accessible, is climbing the main face of Pike O'Stickle whichever way you fancy (guidebooks not particularly useful). Round about vdiff, following your nose. Various bits of scrambly ground to where it steepens (the Grey Band) then a beautiful sweep of slabs at about diff to the summit. It's brilliant!

Report
 HannahC 28 Jul 2020
In reply to JayWhiting:

Another vote for Tophet Wall

Eliminate A on Dow Crag one of the best VSs I’ve ever done. 

North West Arête on Gimmer (I appreciate it only a single pitch but such an great route but the suggestion for the link up with F route sounds great - not done the route yet)

Lots of great VSs at Shephard’s although a significant drive from Langdale 

Report
In reply to JayWhiting:

The "proper" guide gives details of a very good enchantment of the Langdale crags which is worth seeking out. 

Report
 Si dH 29 Jul 2020
In reply to JayWhiting:

I would say to to Scafell and Pillar. Both amazing crags with big long routes either high or remote in the mountains.

Report
In reply to Presley Whippet:

> The "proper" guide gives details of a very good enchantment of the Langdale crags which is worth seeking out. 

I think you mean enchainment but (presumably) your spell checker has found a much better word 😀

Report
In reply to HannahC:

You can always take a short rope and split NW Arete into two 😁 Probably how it was originally done.

Report
In reply to Si dH:

>  Scafell and Pillar.

As long as the weather is right

Report
 C Witter 29 Jul 2020
In reply to JayWhiting:

If you're climbing VS, I wouldn't go with Oliverson's. I'd link North-west Arete or Asterisk into F Route or D Route; or do Bracket and Slab (S) or The Cracks (VS) to the top, then ab down for F Route.

White Ghyll has some absolutely stunner VS routes, e.g. Ethics of Heather, Slip Knot, Haste Not, Gordian Knot and White Ghyll Wall. Laugh Not is a stunning and very well-protected HVS, too, though quite technical for HVS. Great location.

According to many, the VS of the Lakes is Eliminate A on Dow. Murray's Route could be a good warm up - a top-draw Severe.

If you're up for a long day and you get the weather, you could do Gillercombe Buttress (S 4a in 5 or 6 pitches) into Engineer's Slabs (VS), then perhaps bivi and climb the next day on the Napes, Scafell or Pillar Rock. Napes Needle is memorable, despite the modest grade.

Grey Crags (Buttermere) is also really worthwhile.

Post edited at 08:57
Report
 JayWhiting 29 Jul 2020
In reply to Presley Whippet:

I am intrigued...what guide is this you speak of?

Report
 birdie num num 29 Jul 2020
In reply to JayWhiting:

Well, if you’re in Borrowdale then Troutdale Pinnacle is a grand route with a stunning aspect. Hard severe (if I recall correctly)

And for a shorter but varied and exciting VS, you could try Ardus on Shepherds 

Report
 JayWhiting 29 Jul 2020
In reply to C Witter:

This is really helpful, thank you. 

Report
 C Witter 29 Jul 2020
In reply to JayWhiting:

I'm glad if it's helpful. P.s. Borrowdale is very full at the weekend at the moment, and hard to park. I wouldn't bother with Shepherds simply because every time I've driven past recently the limited parking has been chock full. Anywhere you go at the weekend, if you move your car, it's worth arriving early. Felltops are quiet though! ;)

Report
In reply to JayWhiting:

> I am intrigued...what guide is this you speak of?

The Bell and Frock Langdale guide.

Sometime autocorrect can be just wonderful.

https://www.frcc.co.uk/publications/

Post edited at 12:42
Report
 HannahC 29 Jul 2020
In reply to Presley Whippet:

Did this finishing on Pavey as we needed to a get back (and it was November) what a great day out!  

Report

Please Register as a New User in order to reply to this topic.