UKC

We are off to Devon for the weekend and looking for some good multi-pitch (well protected! Let me say that again WELL PROTECTED) VDiffs. Anyone have suggestions? Someone suggested Dewerstone near Plymouth. Any others?

In reply to Jungle:

don't what else is on the Dewerstone, but the classic "Climbers Club Ordinary" is no V.diff - it may be MVS(?)

good luck

In reply to Jungle:

"Wogs" at Chudleigh is VDiff, multi-pitch, multi-starred, well protected, and the first pitch is the most polished bit of limestone I've seen. I don't know if this counts as a suggestion or a warning.

In reply to Stefan Lloyd:


Shinier than a very shiny thing that is! Pretty artificial multi as can be done in one push without a problem. Devon holds very little that is big enough at that grade I'm afraid.

In reply to Jungle: Wogs at chudliegh may be well protected but is horrible pollished rock sucks

In reply to Jungle:
You could always do 'The Long Traverse' at Ansteys it's VD normally soloed but ropes can be used to protect the harder sections (just remember to go at low tide if you want to stay dry!)

If you want to try something harder then Daddyhole is a nice area, Gates of Eden is HS (although with a well protected move of 5a) and also Tobacco road and Triton are slightly harder but worthwhile (there have also been sightings of dolphins around the area in the last week which could be an added bonus)

If you heading to the moors, then you could always split Raven Gully, a classic Severe route at Haytor into 2 pitches..

Hope that helps, enjoy the sunshine, i'm off to the snows and gales of Ben Nevis!
Paul

In reply to paul L:Yes you are right on dadyhole routes you suggested are spot on

In reply to Jungle:

There are loads of VDiffs at the Dewerstone (see eg SW Climbs) including Colonel's Arete among others. Can't comment on the protection as I didn't have a rope, but I'd expect them to be OK on granite. Also quite a few at Chudleigh - less pleasant in my experience but probably also well-protected. I think there are a VDiff or two on Hay Tor which are probably well-protected. The ones at Cheesewring Quarry (I think in Cornwall anyway, perhaps) are not a good choice. I can't think of anything suitable on the North Coast - there are some good one-pitch easy routes at Baggy on that subsidiary slab where Sheet Whitening is (anyone done that? VS, hey?) but I think they might be severe. Long Traverse brilliant fun and very easy but might not suit a nervous party.

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Done sheet whitening. Wicked fun, althugh you could probably put any line up that slab at about VS as long as you're able to believe in the gear (dilusionable behaviour I know) My second loved it as we dropped grapes and orange segments onto his happy face. Until one of our number walked a bit carelessly and sent a flake down to meet him.

The baggy diffs are things like scrattling crack, and the approach to that slab. Nearly all N. devon diffs are either poorly protected or throwing bits into the sea in lemming proportions, except scrattling crack I supose.


hose

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Dewerstone V Diffs are generally adequately protected as I recall. There are some less popular ones on the slabs up and left of Colonels Arete - good if it's busy. Same for Chudleigh, but polished, as has been mentioned just once or twice.....

Can't say the same for the pair on Hay Tor. One's easy enough but has no gear. The other has some gear, but deserves to be at least a couple of grades harder. Or maybe I was just having a bad day?

In reply to hoseyb:

re baggy: scratting zawn is a friggin nightmare, i did it very early in my leading career. under-estimated the need to own the right gear. its relatively easy, but in hindsight i did crap myself when i used up my hex10 in the first few metres and then nothing else was large enough to be of any use. Didnt get much pro in after that and the rock was choss city. learnt from it, thats the important fact.. theres much easier vdiffs on the promotory, i.e. bridge of kasadum etc..

In reply to Jungle: Thanks for all the useful tips, might even consider a S, currently leading HS 4b but do not want to push it on a multi-pitch (chicken, I know). Sorry I have not replied and thanked you all directly. having an E6 or maybe 7 day at work

Come on Easter!!!

Don't know about Devon. But I'm thinking of doing one of the longest multipitch vdiffs around at the weekend. Commando ridge at Bosigran I shall try not to get benighted on it though like a couple of friends of mine last year!

In reply to Jungle:

What, nobody's mentioned Needle Arete, at the Dewerstone? A route so good and well protected even I've led it! Three pitches, although it's better to walk around the first...

In reply to South Devon Rock Hugger:

Three! three! two with lots of pro (extended properly of course) or a spartan single pitch.

Great great diff, but route B's scarier and colonels arete is more thought provoking

down climb the tunnel (mod, most of which can be bum slid) for an exciting finish

hose