-Myself and Climbing Bro wake up Hyped.
-Hike in with The Trad Gods to the The Prow.
-They set up the static rope and run through abseiling again.
-They told us leave are bags on top but bring ALL our gear with us.
-My Bro abseiling first, then my turn.
-The Gods leave while im abseiling down (mega exicted).
-Can't Find black thief (too excited to have been listening to The Gods).
-Start Looking around but can't find it.
-OHHHH CRAP, I Forgot the ROPE on top of the prow.
-Luckily the climbing bro has a brand spanking new Jumar.
-Never done it before but he is confident to give it a try. (He muscles it up like a god).
-Gets the rope, saves the day and Comes back down like a member of Seal Team Six.
-We find The Black Thief, Never Have I Lead A HS but feeling very confident about onsighting this VS.
-Start climbing, The hand Jamming and Foot camming feels really solid, The crag is hungry for my gear and Im feeding it.
-Get around 17 meters up started climbing onto the right crack. Notice my rack is getting pretty light. Going to save some big pieces for Higher up.
-Place a really bad BD purple offest (hard thing to do) and was running it out a little bit. Then place an okay Bd Yellow Offset.
-Feel Worried about anchor building at top with my light rack but Ill be fine.
-Yellow Offset pops, I down climb, use my big nuts I was saving to build a little anchor and l bail.
-My bro thinks it was the right thing to do and we take 5 mins.
-Now the genius idea of combining our racks comes to mind.
-Climbing Bro has never placed gear on lead but he feels confident he can finish the route, He has some sexy Hexs for the top and with the combined racks will be unstoppable.
-One thing, he has never made a Trad anchor.
-We go over the clove hitch and he'll hitch into the static rope and set up a back up.
-He starts to send, cleaning some gear as he goes up. Starts the section above were I bailed.
-Boom, man finishes it, only dropped one piece of gear and takes his time with the anchor. I second it and the gear he placed is the definition of bomber.
-Woops my phone flys outta my pocket and hits a nice rock.
-The anchor on top is Ideal, Clove hitches are perfect and the back up piece is 5/5.
-Bro then raps down, rescues my phone and jugs outta there.
-Phone is smashed up but still works.
-High Fives all around and when we told our tale back at camp the said it belonged on the forum.
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-Next day Bro gets the red point on his First Trad Lead climb "Black Theif VS"
-Proud.
Fair HeadThe Black Thief (VS 4b)