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Let me start by saying that I really enjoyed reading this piece.It was well written and gave a good insight into the memories and life of a (IMHO)much underrated climber.
So I`m sure you can tell there`s a BUT coming?
There is!.
At the end of the article,the chipped slab at Robin Hoods` Stride is mentioned and it seems that Martin Veale is still pretty p**sed off at the 'chipper'. Before I go any further,I`d better say that I do not support chipping at all. It`s wrong and there can be no excuse for a CLIMBER to do it.(nb.CLIMBER!)
I don`t know how widely the facts behind this incident are known,so here`s a brief rundown.
The guy involved was a dry stone waller with NO climbing experience,he`d seen climbers in the course of his job and decided he`d like a go.Armed with trainers he started to do easy stuff in the RHS area,noting as he climbed that chipping had ALREADY taken place on many problems.Assuming that this was the norm.(ok,not right bright was it!?)he chipped the slab in question.
After meeting other climbers and getting into the game properly he realised what he`d done and how bad it was(in his own words 'I`m in deep shit!)and wrote into OTE and confessed. Now, he didn`t have to do that,he could have remained anonymous but he put his hands up and took a lot of flak(he was advised to keep shtum but confessed anyway)
something at least which I think he deserves some credit for?
After the slab was 'repaired' he decided (mistakenly I think) to climb it and name it,this was done after TR practice and graded,I think at about E6 6b.
I can well understand the anger felt by Martin Veale and others at this incident,particularly his 'nicking' the ascent,but I do think it`s time to forgive and try to forget.
And yes I do know the guy in question,he`s a pretty straight foreward person who definitely did F**K UP!! But that doesn`t 'condemn him forever does it?
So I`m sure you can tell there`s a BUT coming?
There is!.
At the end of the article,the chipped slab at Robin Hoods` Stride is mentioned and it seems that Martin Veale is still pretty p**sed off at the 'chipper'. Before I go any further,I`d better say that I do not support chipping at all. It`s wrong and there can be no excuse for a CLIMBER to do it.(nb.CLIMBER!)
I don`t know how widely the facts behind this incident are known,so here`s a brief rundown.
The guy involved was a dry stone waller with NO climbing experience,he`d seen climbers in the course of his job and decided he`d like a go.Armed with trainers he started to do easy stuff in the RHS area,noting as he climbed that chipping had ALREADY taken place on many problems.Assuming that this was the norm.(ok,not right bright was it!?)he chipped the slab in question.
After meeting other climbers and getting into the game properly he realised what he`d done and how bad it was(in his own words 'I`m in deep shit!)and wrote into OTE and confessed. Now, he didn`t have to do that,he could have remained anonymous but he put his hands up and took a lot of flak(he was advised to keep shtum but confessed anyway)
something at least which I think he deserves some credit for?
After the slab was 'repaired' he decided (mistakenly I think) to climb it and name it,this was done after TR practice and graded,I think at about E6 6b.
I can well understand the anger felt by Martin Veale and others at this incident,particularly his 'nicking' the ascent,but I do think it`s time to forgive and try to forget.
And yes I do know the guy in question,he`s a pretty straight foreward person who definitely did F**K UP!! But that doesn`t 'condemn him forever does it?
In reply to andy flint: A stonewaller with no climbing experience, who then proceeds to climb an E6 6b ? ! Forget the chipping, he deserves capital punishment for being so good so quick. Is he on Gorple's accelerated training regime ?
Seriously, though, we all make mistakes, and at least he was honest enough to admit it. Do you remember Pete Livesey on Rock Athlete denying he'd improved the holds on Downhill Racer ?
Seriously, though, we all make mistakes, and at least he was honest enough to admit it. Do you remember Pete Livesey on Rock Athlete denying he'd improved the holds on Downhill Racer ?
In reply to Marc C.: Yes, I remember, ha ha ha ha. Perhaps he accidentally chipped it with his beard while he was "cleaning".
Almost forgot to say that I thought the article was good too. I hadn't realised that Ape Drape was his. A friend of mine did it last week, looks very cool apart from "rounded heather scramble" top out.
In reply to Marc C.:
Yeah remember Mr. Livesey and the 'denial' quite well.
The guy in question did get good pretty fast,if memory serves he also did a repeat of Kaluza Klein.
Don`t know what training regime he followed tho`,I`m trying Gorples` diet now,Winalot and unbleached tripe straight from the cows` stomach!!
Yeah remember Mr. Livesey and the 'denial' quite well.
The guy in question did get good pretty fast,if memory serves he also did a repeat of Kaluza Klein.
Don`t know what training regime he followed tho`,I`m trying Gorples` diet now,Winalot and unbleached tripe straight from the cows` stomach!!
In reply to Marc C.: unfortunately due to my, ahem, position as ambassador to all things fluffy, i have been gagged from blabbing about chipping history (not with relation to downhill racer or anything at Robin Hoods Stride) but i happen to know that a very well respected and squeaky clean climber was caught by some very well known people in the climbing community, chipping, back in the 70s, and its always been hushed up. and no-one would believe he did it anyway. it goes on. nobody is perfect.everyone is human. some are more human than others though.
i just know that martin and johnny would never chip because they both have a deep love and respect for rock which goes beyond deconstruction and analysis.
im sure martin will be very flattered that someone's noticed his article, the first he's ever had published, after much nagging for years on my part for him to write something for publication.(then he goes and writes something that far outshines any of my writing. drat!)
and im sure he will come on here after work and make his own comments, as he likes to follow my trail through rocktalk and see if he can be wittier than moi. rather a tall order really, eh mart?
i just know that martin and johnny would never chip because they both have a deep love and respect for rock which goes beyond deconstruction and analysis.
im sure martin will be very flattered that someone's noticed his article, the first he's ever had published, after much nagging for years on my part for him to write something for publication.(then he goes and writes something that far outshines any of my writing. drat!)
and im sure he will come on here after work and make his own comments, as he likes to follow my trail through rocktalk and see if he can be wittier than moi. rather a tall order really, eh mart?
In reply to jude calvert-toulmin:
Well get him to write some more!!
The other 'thing' aside I really did think it was one of the best articles for a long time.
in reply to Marc C. nearly dinner time,arrrggghhhh!!!
Well get him to write some more!!
The other 'thing' aside I really did think it was one of the best articles for a long time.
in reply to Marc C. nearly dinner time,arrrggghhhh!!!
In reply to Marc C.:
I remember that Marc. But I also remember Pete Livesey coming clean on a number of other routes that he had chipped. Livesey told me that Bancroft and his mates chipped or "improved" Downhill Racer. I've got it all on tape and it's in a back issue of OTE somewhere. Whether you believe what he said is another matter. Pete Gomersall also spilled the beans on his activities - which weren't a bad as his detractors made out.
Other climbers, both well known and not, have yet to come clean on their manufacturing antics.
As regards the secret chipper, the one who has never come clean, the one that is romantisized about by all his mates (usually magazine editors), the 'sqeaky clean' one that jct refers too, perhaps when Ron writes his memoires all all be revealed....or not.
Warts and all. That's what we'd all like to see I'm sure rather than some sanitized history, after all it's only climbing.
cheers,
Mick
I remember that Marc. But I also remember Pete Livesey coming clean on a number of other routes that he had chipped. Livesey told me that Bancroft and his mates chipped or "improved" Downhill Racer. I've got it all on tape and it's in a back issue of OTE somewhere. Whether you believe what he said is another matter. Pete Gomersall also spilled the beans on his activities - which weren't a bad as his detractors made out.
Other climbers, both well known and not, have yet to come clean on their manufacturing antics.
As regards the secret chipper, the one who has never come clean, the one that is romantisized about by all his mates (usually magazine editors), the 'sqeaky clean' one that jct refers too, perhaps when Ron writes his memoires all all be revealed....or not.
Warts and all. That's what we'd all like to see I'm sure rather than some sanitized history, after all it's only climbing.
cheers,
Mick
In reply to andy flint:
Hi Andy & all who liked the OTE article, thanks for the +ve feedback. It's very encouraging to receive compliments. The article was a long time coming & at the time of discovering the chips @ RHS a whole bunch of people were genuinely very upset, not because someone had 'nicked' the route but simply because they had spoiled it forever and for everyone. I'm not angry & never was really - people should be forgiven but we shouldn't forget or we'll see it all over again. I respect the guy (JB) for holding his hands up, it must've taken a lot of courage.
I'm glad you liked the article, maybe I'll write another if wifey ever gets off the pooter long enough :0)
Hi Andy & all who liked the OTE article, thanks for the +ve feedback. It's very encouraging to receive compliments. The article was a long time coming & at the time of discovering the chips @ RHS a whole bunch of people were genuinely very upset, not because someone had 'nicked' the route but simply because they had spoiled it forever and for everyone. I'm not angry & never was really - people should be forgiven but we shouldn't forget or we'll see it all over again. I respect the guy (JB) for holding his hands up, it must've taken a lot of courage.
I'm glad you liked the article, maybe I'll write another if wifey ever gets off the pooter long enough :0)
In reply to martin veale: Just goes to prove the old maxim: hard man on the rocks, pussycat at home. What kind of man are you?! Just put your foot down and tell her to get off the computer and get on with some darning or housework....oops, better go, I think I can hear my wife coming up the stairs, and I'm supposed to be ironing.......
in reply to Daisy, marc C's wife:
arent they a pain in the a*&e. you cant train them properly for love nor money, they are always sneaking onto the computer when you vacate it for 5 minutes out of every 24 hours. there are only 3 rules in this house:
number 1 - i am always in the right
number 2 - you do all the ironing
number 3 - you do all the rest of the housework, sort all the kids out, are always available for my every whim to be satisfied and never question me about shopping bills.
like your husband said Daisy, a complete pussycat and luckily, sometimes even a tiger
arent they a pain in the a*&e. you cant train them properly for love nor money, they are always sneaking onto the computer when you vacate it for 5 minutes out of every 24 hours. there are only 3 rules in this house:
number 1 - i am always in the right
number 2 - you do all the ironing
number 3 - you do all the rest of the housework, sort all the kids out, are always available for my every whim to be satisfied and never question me about shopping bills.
like your husband said Daisy, a complete pussycat and luckily, sometimes even a tiger
In reply to andy flint:
i have to agree, mart's article was wicked! :-D i reckon that jude's got a battle on her hands now, what with mart posting on rocktalk and writing articles for ote.
keep up the good work mart, looking forward to meeting you next weekend
sharkey boy
i have to agree, mart's article was wicked! :-D i reckon that jude's got a battle on her hands now, what with mart posting on rocktalk and writing articles for ote.
keep up the good work mart, looking forward to meeting you next weekend
sharkey boy
In reply to Sharkey Boy: he's also wittier than me and has a much perkier ass. however i'm a better cook
In reply to jude calvert-toulmin:
do i detect a slight hint of jealousy there jude?
maybe you should get your kids to start posting on rocktalk and writing for ote. then you could boast that yours in the only family that has all its members contributing to rocktalk and ote! :-P
sharkey boy
do i detect a slight hint of jealousy there jude?
maybe you should get your kids to start posting on rocktalk and writing for ote. then you could boast that yours in the only family that has all its members contributing to rocktalk and ote! :-P
sharkey boy
In reply to martin veale:
What do you do when your wife comes out of the kitchen?
Shorten the chain!!
OH shit!! Yes Gorple dear coming now.
What do you do when your wife comes out of the kitchen?
Shorten the chain!!
OH shit!! Yes Gorple dear coming now.
Can anyone explain the "breadline" photo sequence to me? I found it most confusing.
In reply to andy flint: I too thought the article was excellent. I went all gooey when he mentioned "my childhood sweetheart Jude..". Ahhh...
I have to agree with his anger over the chipping. Anyone aspiring to climb, ignorant or not, ought at least to talk to "proper" climbers to get a feel as to how to go about it! When I started I had no idea at all, but I would never have done anything so drastic as chipping holds unless I knew it was the thing to do. Maybe Martin's anger was partly down to frustration at the ignorance of the culprit, as much as his "crime"?
I was far more concerned at his foot story. Ow! As one who often boulders alone due to love of solitude and paucity of climbing mates willing to waste valuable rope-untangling time on insignificant stones, and who doesn't own a crash pad due to cost and the idea that bouldering at V0 doesn't warrant it, I was a little perturbed that Martin ended up with a joiners set-square for a foot, after falling from three feet! On to a good landing too!
Am I silly bouldering alone? I aleways thought that was one of the beauties of it; that you could do it on your own if you fancied!
I have to agree with his anger over the chipping. Anyone aspiring to climb, ignorant or not, ought at least to talk to "proper" climbers to get a feel as to how to go about it! When I started I had no idea at all, but I would never have done anything so drastic as chipping holds unless I knew it was the thing to do. Maybe Martin's anger was partly down to frustration at the ignorance of the culprit, as much as his "crime"?
I was far more concerned at his foot story. Ow! As one who often boulders alone due to love of solitude and paucity of climbing mates willing to waste valuable rope-untangling time on insignificant stones, and who doesn't own a crash pad due to cost and the idea that bouldering at V0 doesn't warrant it, I was a little perturbed that Martin ended up with a joiners set-square for a foot, after falling from three feet! On to a good landing too!
Am I silly bouldering alone? I aleways thought that was one of the beauties of it; that you could do it on your own if you fancied!
In reply to BrianT: I have often bouldered alone, along with soloing alone, often in some remote places - Ogden Clough, Earl Crag, Porthcawl, Sennen, Dartmoor. Yes I enjoy it and I know it sounds dumb, but I often leave my phone as close as possible to the expected landing spot when soloing, not that it would make any difference if I threw a 6 (usually dont have a signal anyway). I always use a mat now, its somthing you cant stop using once you get into the habit. You can still hurt yourself on V0, as many people have proved.
In reply to andy flint: Nice one Andy. No one will be reading this so late at night, so here's another.
Why do women get married in white ?
So they blend in with the other kitchen appliances (!)
Why do women get married in white ?
So they blend in with the other kitchen appliances (!)
In reply to BrianT: Join the bouldering alone club, Brian. Er, no, I don't mean that literally, otherwise we wouldn't be bouldering alone any longer. Maybe you're like me ? I'll take a long shot here: you love climbing, but hate other climbers ? Right, so far ? You like a bit of piece and quiet, then along comes some selfish b****rd and spoils it all ? Know how you feel. You want to slowly torture them to death, and eat their remains ?.........I'm not getting a vibe of agreement anymore......are you there Brian ? Ah, you wimp, the only reason YOU like climbing alone is so no one can laugh at your use of a bouldering mat on a VDiff.
In reply to Sharkey Boy: re: "do i detect a slight hint of jealousy there jude? "
i know youre only kidding sharksta but i must say that (without wanting to make you all turn aside and discreetly shove a finger down your throat off camera) seeing mart's article in print gave me far more pleasure than seeing anything of my own in print.
mart's probably the most modest man ive ever met( in wonderful contrast and harmony to his wife - he doesnt think he's any great shakes as a climber really and doesnt find the prospect of being insulted on rocktalk quite as entertaining as i do, so ive inspired him to write and to come on here and that just makes me proud. you know, i encourage him to be more outgoing and he....er.....keeps trying to gag me and shove me out of earshot
actually a couple of "my mates" have said that martin could have been one of the top climbers of his day if he had more arrogant self-belief in his talent, and i think this is true. he hasn't got that burning ambition to be "the best" - he just climbs because he loves it, and according to his Mum, he's always climbed anything in sight. she told me a while back that when he was still a toddler she found him on top of the (full size i mean) door to the larder, having somehow scaled it in the few minutes her back was turned. i've even put our bed on scaffolding so that he's got something to climb on his way to bed lol (i am not kidding
i know youre only kidding sharksta but i must say that (without wanting to make you all turn aside and discreetly shove a finger down your throat off camera) seeing mart's article in print gave me far more pleasure than seeing anything of my own in print.
mart's probably the most modest man ive ever met( in wonderful contrast and harmony to his wife - he doesnt think he's any great shakes as a climber really and doesnt find the prospect of being insulted on rocktalk quite as entertaining as i do, so ive inspired him to write and to come on here and that just makes me proud. you know, i encourage him to be more outgoing and he....er.....keeps trying to gag me and shove me out of earshot
actually a couple of "my mates" have said that martin could have been one of the top climbers of his day if he had more arrogant self-belief in his talent, and i think this is true. he hasn't got that burning ambition to be "the best" - he just climbs because he loves it, and according to his Mum, he's always climbed anything in sight. she told me a while back that when he was still a toddler she found him on top of the (full size i mean) door to the larder, having somehow scaled it in the few minutes her back was turned. i've even put our bed on scaffolding so that he's got something to climb on his way to bed lol (i am not kidding
In reply to Sharkey Boy: Our cats have often posted on here, pretending to be me.
In reply to BrianT: No we haven't! It was the Big Spider who lives behind the gas fire!
In reply to Marc C: You're right, Mr C! I have often pounced upon climbers who only come to my beloved out of the way places, like Brunthwaite, to annoy me and ruin my solitary pleasure, and then flayed them alive, to leave them bubbling and weeping, whilst I use their skin as a boot-wiper.
I am proud to use a bouldering mat on a vdiff! Or i would be if I had one. Actually I'm waiting until they are on offer for £29.99 in the xmas sales!
I am proud to use a bouldering mat on a vdiff! Or i would be if I had one. Actually I'm waiting until they are on offer for £29.99 in the xmas sales!
In reply to Mick:
I hope your not suggesting Ron chipped Scrittos, Clock People and One Step Beyond. That would be contrary to well-established convention, you know. You'll be saying his claims on Toy Boy and Careless Torque are false next! As if! .....
I hope your not suggesting Ron chipped Scrittos, Clock People and One Step Beyond. That would be contrary to well-established convention, you know. You'll be saying his claims on Toy Boy and Careless Torque are false next! As if! .....
In reply to Tom dG: You are getting a reputation for smearing unsubstanciated allegations all over the internet with no proof. You'd better hope that none of your skeletons come out of the cupboard to bite you on the arse !
In reply to The Fat One: ho ho ho. he's not the only one on this thread with skeletons in his closet. you wouldnt *believe* what minutae i know about certain people on rocktalk from all sorts of people in their history. some of it, although amusing, not very flattering either
but im not one to blab
yet
but im not one to blab
yet
In reply to The Fat One:
I'm suggesting nothing of the sort! Ron is undoubtedly amazing and I don't think any of us are in a position to criticise. It's just the word that reaches me from the rumour mill...
What skeletons would they be exactly? Not that time when I traversed off Great North Road I hope!
I'm suggesting nothing of the sort! Ron is undoubtedly amazing and I don't think any of us are in a position to criticise. It's just the word that reaches me from the rumour mill...
What skeletons would they be exactly? Not that time when I traversed off Great North Road I hope!
In reply to BrianT:
Yes the foot story gave me food for thought,I know someone who fell 1 foot at Brownstones and cream crackered his ankle!!
To Marc C., Gorple remembers your pathetic attempts at housework,especially when you used to wear the gladiators getup,we still have your net and trident!!
To Tdg, tut, tut,tut!!
Yes the foot story gave me food for thought,I know someone who fell 1 foot at Brownstones and cream crackered his ankle!!
To Marc C., Gorple remembers your pathetic attempts at housework,especially when you used to wear the gladiators getup,we still have your net and trident!!
To Tdg, tut, tut,tut!!
In support of the gay lad:
every one knows ron is a chipmaster,especially for those that have done his routes and found a disproportionate amount of creations, and i would add body machine to the list (the traverse at the top!)
every one knows ron is a chipmaster,especially for those that have done his routes and found a disproportionate amount of creations, and i would add body machine to the list (the traverse at the top!)
In reply to andy flint: I NEED that net and trident for a women's lacrosse tournament next week.
To Gorple: You're yesterday's dog. Why not advertise yourself on my forgotten Forgotten Climbers thread ? Alternatively, ditch that loser and come back to me. I've got a new training schedule for you. Do not go gentle into that good night. I've left your room just the same as the day you left.
In reply to Brian T: Use some ingenuity man. I made my own bouldering mat out of human skin (from those pesky so-and-sos who trespass on MY crag) stuffed with sheep dung and stitched together with catgut. Ecologically sound.
To Gorple: You're yesterday's dog. Why not advertise yourself on my forgotten Forgotten Climbers thread ? Alternatively, ditch that loser and come back to me. I've got a new training schedule for you. Do not go gentle into that good night. I've left your room just the same as the day you left.
In reply to Brian T: Use some ingenuity man. I made my own bouldering mat out of human skin (from those pesky so-and-sos who trespass on MY crag) stuffed with sheep dung and stitched together with catgut. Ecologically sound.
In reply to Marc C:
I`m sorry Marc but I`m happy and fulfilled now,the sponsorship deals have come thru` and we`ve more Winalot thasn you can shake a stick at!
I`m doing Indian Face next week and Thig will be my second,making it the hardest canine lead in the known universe!!
The police want the net and trident in connection with the 'body in suitcase incident' I`ll visit you.
ps.have you got my yellow coat brush??
I`m sorry Marc but I`m happy and fulfilled now,the sponsorship deals have come thru` and we`ve more Winalot thasn you can shake a stick at!
I`m doing Indian Face next week and Thig will be my second,making it the hardest canine lead in the known universe!!
The police want the net and trident in connection with the 'body in suitcase incident' I`ll visit you.
ps.have you got my yellow coat brush??
In reply to Gorple: No hard feelings. You've made your bed, etc.
Your yellow coat brush is hanging up in your room (sniffle), just where you liked it (sob), on the hook next to that poster we had done of you and me at the top of Scafell Pinnacle (boo hoo). Why don't you come round and collect it ? I promise I won't try to talk you into staying. Just a bowl of milk for old time's sake. I've got some cans that Andy can have (they're a bit more upmarket than Winalot, but I know he's fallen on hard times - that sponsorship talk doesn't fool me. I've had Wild Country, Petzl, and Pedigree Chum on the phone today threatening to cancel their deals unless you get back with a reputable climber). Say tomorrow about 11 ?
Your yellow coat brush is hanging up in your room (sniffle), just where you liked it (sob), on the hook next to that poster we had done of you and me at the top of Scafell Pinnacle (boo hoo). Why don't you come round and collect it ? I promise I won't try to talk you into staying. Just a bowl of milk for old time's sake. I've got some cans that Andy can have (they're a bit more upmarket than Winalot, but I know he's fallen on hard times - that sponsorship talk doesn't fool me. I've had Wild Country, Petzl, and Pedigree Chum on the phone today threatening to cancel their deals unless you get back with a reputable climber). Say tomorrow about 11 ?
In reply to Marc C:
Sorry Marc you can keep the brush,I suspect that by 11 tomorrow you may just be a hard mans` plaything,the police have just left.
They seemed very annoyed about the WPC`s truncheon incident from your "I am He Man days", they took the sword as well.
Andy said I had to tell them everything!
Byee.
Sorry Marc you can keep the brush,I suspect that by 11 tomorrow you may just be a hard mans` plaything,the police have just left.
They seemed very annoyed about the WPC`s truncheon incident from your "I am He Man days", they took the sword as well.
Andy said I had to tell them everything!
Byee.
In reply to andy flint: Andy, Gorple's quite capable of typing his own messages. I see you've got this controlfreakery masquerading as helpfulness down to a fine art.
Gorple, if he's letting you see this, get out while you still can. I know the truth about the bouldering mat body bag incident, but I won't let them hang you. It was an accident. I'll testify for you.
Just LEAVE that sick frustrated fiend NOW.
Gorple, if he's letting you see this, get out while you still can. I know the truth about the bouldering mat body bag incident, but I won't let them hang you. It was an accident. I'll testify for you.
Just LEAVE that sick frustrated fiend NOW.
In reply to Gorple: Oh well, don't say I didn't warn you. The grass is always greener.............
Anyway, back on thread, yeah I really dug Martin's article, and Andy (before he went mad) raised some good points about chipping and forgiving chippers. There are those who say about chippers, let's bury the sods.I say forgive and forget and leave such barbarity to those who live in Chipping Sodbury.
Anyway, back on thread, yeah I really dug Martin's article, and Andy (before he went mad) raised some good points about chipping and forgiving chippers. There are those who say about chippers, let's bury the sods.I say forgive and forget and leave such barbarity to those who live in Chipping Sodbury.
In reply to jude calvert-toulmin:
"he's not the only one on this thread with skeletons in his closet. you wouldnt *believe* what minutae i know about certain people on rocktalk from all sorts of people in their history"
Whose a bully? You've already mentioned personal information about my evil self on this *public* forum. You really are better keeping your mouth shut when it comes to personal information on this website young Jude or the real bullys might set on you.
Nothing personal mind.
You'll have to excuse me I'm tired I 've just come off Whitney - that woul be the mountain jude not the singer.
Looking forwad to you going off at tangent in reply to this post.
Oooooo. What a beeetch I am.
Back up 14,495 tomorrow - bummer
Have I contradicted myself somewhere, again.
sleep,
Mickster
"he's not the only one on this thread with skeletons in his closet. you wouldnt *believe* what minutae i know about certain people on rocktalk from all sorts of people in their history"
Whose a bully? You've already mentioned personal information about my evil self on this *public* forum. You really are better keeping your mouth shut when it comes to personal information on this website young Jude or the real bullys might set on you.
Nothing personal mind.
You'll have to excuse me I'm tired I 've just come off Whitney - that woul be the mountain jude not the singer.
Looking forwad to you going off at tangent in reply to this post.
Oooooo. What a beeetch I am.
Back up 14,495 tomorrow - bummer
Have I contradicted myself somewhere, again.
sleep,
Mickster
In reply to BrianT: re: "Am I silly bouldering alone? I aleways thought that was one of the beauties of it; that you could do it on your own if you fancied!"
i missed this question earlier on - i dont think its silly bouldering alone, witness some of Grimer's writing for Climbing on the beauty of being out there with the elements and not having to yak to hoardes of people, which sometimes, one is not in the mood for. there is a certain element of risk in climbing anyway, so you might as well go for it and do what you feel like doing. a lot of people i talk to about climbing say some of their favourite moments were going out to the crag alone when everyone else was at the pub/watching the cup final/still asleep in bed.
so not Brian its not silly at all.
looking forward to seeing you weekend after next Bry!
i missed this question earlier on - i dont think its silly bouldering alone, witness some of Grimer's writing for Climbing on the beauty of being out there with the elements and not having to yak to hoardes of people, which sometimes, one is not in the mood for. there is a certain element of risk in climbing anyway, so you might as well go for it and do what you feel like doing. a lot of people i talk to about climbing say some of their favourite moments were going out to the crag alone when everyone else was at the pub/watching the cup final/still asleep in bed.
so not Brian its not silly at all.
looking forward to seeing you weekend after next Bry!
In reply to jude calvert-toulmin: There I was agreeing (as the bouldering soloist's bouldering soloist)with everything you said, when you went and spoiled it all. Going to the crag when there's a cup final on ?!!! There ought to be government inspectors scouring the crags for any men climbing when there's a cup final on, and anyone found ought to be reported to the local authorities as being a suspected spy, traitor, sexual deviant, or just a generally unmanly type.
In reply to Marc C: you know johnny then?
(only kidding, i love him)
(only kidding, i love him)
In reply to Marc C: I saw that Blue Peter programme too!
In reply to Mick:
I'm not sure what is going on there, but your email is what I would call inappropriate behaviour.
I'm not sure what is going on there, but your email is what I would call inappropriate behaviour.
In reply to BrianT: Yes, then those buggers at the BBC gave John Noakes the sack - for god's sake he only skinned a bit of Shep to give kids the general idea.
In reply to M_R_R_P: re: "In reply to Mick: I'm not sure what is going on there, but your email is what I would call inappropriate behaviour"
not only that MRRP, but this totally false claim by the same poison-pen-gob :
"Livesey told me that Bancroft and his mates chipped or "improved" Downhill Racer"
has, i have been informed via various msms and emails, REALLY pissed off a LOT of people in Sheffield. i know nothing about it so it has not upset me personally, but there are some very angry folk out there right now............
not only that MRRP, but this totally false claim by the same poison-pen-gob :
"Livesey told me that Bancroft and his mates chipped or "improved" Downhill Racer"
has, i have been informed via various msms and emails, REALLY pissed off a LOT of people in Sheffield. i know nothing about it so it has not upset me personally, but there are some very angry folk out there right now............
In reply to jude calvert-toulmin:
"Livesey told me that Bancroft and his mates chipped or "improved" Downhill Racer"
Jude - I told you to ignore that Sheffield lot.
I interviewed Livesey in his office at Ilkley College...and that's what he said. I asked him - so what about Downhill Racer then and he replied flippantly - oh that was Bancroft and his mates.
I've got it on tape somwhere. PLUS I played it in front of hundreds (could have been thousands) at a MC Buxton Conference. I had tapes of Nic Sellars, Pete Livesey, Pete Gomersall and others (all Yokshire boys) - revealing all about their dastardly deeds. All heard at Buxton during my presentation and if you look in a back issue of OTE I wrote an article about chipping that was transcrbed from the tapes. Of course I came clean about my shinnanigans at the dawn of the sport climbing revolution when everyone was influenced by the French. We're all over it now though.
What's that route that Livesey and Gomersall did in the Lakes- an E6 (late 70's). Anyhow, I asked Livesey about it and he told me one story and Pete Gummy told me another. It was hilarious. And they were both laughing about it. "The rock was so bloody hard that Livesey had to send me down another chisel" was one memorable quote.
Of course all the Sheff lot were blind drunk at Buxton, them and their grubbly little beards puking up all over each other (did you ever read my forward to the first Dorset guide - Wilson said that I should have my legs cut off for that) and consequently they didn't hear my little lecture. Well Gill did because I remember being at her house ironing my shirt.
Hey and when have I ever been afraid of REALLY pissing A LOT of people off. People hate the truth you know. They much prefer a pack of lies - keeps 'em sane and jusified. In fact Leo Houlding (I'm a terminal name dropper) was in my office last year and he said to me,"Mick - keep telling it like it is" - touched the cockles of my heat did that.
Anyway - you know what Livesey was like. Always one for a good wind up.
So was my posting inappropriate? No I don't think so. Liveseys comments had been aired in public, but as usual the Sheff mafia weren't listening - to busy listening to themselves.
By the way - just got down from being up Whitney again (the mountain not the singer). Twice in 24 hrs, might be a record, I'm fucked and probably suffering from all kinds of mental complaints.
As always Jude - good to talk (you like that don't you Jude).
Mick
the Bishop one
"Livesey told me that Bancroft and his mates chipped or "improved" Downhill Racer"
Jude - I told you to ignore that Sheffield lot.
I interviewed Livesey in his office at Ilkley College...and that's what he said. I asked him - so what about Downhill Racer then and he replied flippantly - oh that was Bancroft and his mates.
I've got it on tape somwhere. PLUS I played it in front of hundreds (could have been thousands) at a MC Buxton Conference. I had tapes of Nic Sellars, Pete Livesey, Pete Gomersall and others (all Yokshire boys) - revealing all about their dastardly deeds. All heard at Buxton during my presentation and if you look in a back issue of OTE I wrote an article about chipping that was transcrbed from the tapes. Of course I came clean about my shinnanigans at the dawn of the sport climbing revolution when everyone was influenced by the French. We're all over it now though.
What's that route that Livesey and Gomersall did in the Lakes- an E6 (late 70's). Anyhow, I asked Livesey about it and he told me one story and Pete Gummy told me another. It was hilarious. And they were both laughing about it. "The rock was so bloody hard that Livesey had to send me down another chisel" was one memorable quote.
Of course all the Sheff lot were blind drunk at Buxton, them and their grubbly little beards puking up all over each other (did you ever read my forward to the first Dorset guide - Wilson said that I should have my legs cut off for that) and consequently they didn't hear my little lecture. Well Gill did because I remember being at her house ironing my shirt.
Hey and when have I ever been afraid of REALLY pissing A LOT of people off. People hate the truth you know. They much prefer a pack of lies - keeps 'em sane and jusified. In fact Leo Houlding (I'm a terminal name dropper) was in my office last year and he said to me,"Mick - keep telling it like it is" - touched the cockles of my heat did that.
Anyway - you know what Livesey was like. Always one for a good wind up.
So was my posting inappropriate? No I don't think so. Liveseys comments had been aired in public, but as usual the Sheff mafia weren't listening - to busy listening to themselves.
By the way - just got down from being up Whitney again (the mountain not the singer). Twice in 24 hrs, might be a record, I'm fucked and probably suffering from all kinds of mental complaints.
As always Jude - good to talk (you like that don't you Jude).
Mick
the Bishop one
In reply to Mick:
anyways I thought this thread was about what a literary and climbing genius mart is?
anyways I thought this thread was about what a literary and climbing genius mart is?
In reply to martin veale:
I haven't been on Rockfax for a while but I read your article and liked it a lot. It was very honest I thought and very inspiring to someone who loves bouldering as much as I do.
I did a search for messages by Jude to catch up on her off the wall sense of humour, and I noticed that on quite a few different threads she's been followed by this Mick bloke making minging comments about her.
Have you got some kind of weird obsession with her Mick? I've only met her a few times but she seemed like a really down to earth, friendly lass, and my girlfriend Scarlett liked her a lot too. Just seems a bit odd that's all.
Anyway Martin, spot on article mate.
I haven't been on Rockfax for a while but I read your article and liked it a lot. It was very honest I thought and very inspiring to someone who loves bouldering as much as I do.
I did a search for messages by Jude to catch up on her off the wall sense of humour, and I noticed that on quite a few different threads she's been followed by this Mick bloke making minging comments about her.
Have you got some kind of weird obsession with her Mick? I've only met her a few times but she seemed like a really down to earth, friendly lass, and my girlfriend Scarlett liked her a lot too. Just seems a bit odd that's all.
Anyway Martin, spot on article mate.
In reply to max:
No weird obsession Max. I don't know Jude from Eve, so it surprised me when she sprayed some personal (non-climbing) stuff about me on this public forum.
I'm sure she is a wonderful person (most people are on the surface).
She does monopolize this forum with her chatter, gossip and self-promotion and she does have her fan club. Although there are others who get annoyed by her. They usually stay silent.
She's fine, but there does need to some equalizing force to her banalities. That would be me now and again, when I get the inclination.
Anyway Max, welcome to the dynamics of public forums, it's a complex game.
Anyway: WHAT"S YOUR FAVOURITE PLANT? I mean come on. This forum is going to implode with such dross however stimulating to some.
cheers,
Mick
No weird obsession Max. I don't know Jude from Eve, so it surprised me when she sprayed some personal (non-climbing) stuff about me on this public forum.
I'm sure she is a wonderful person (most people are on the surface).
She does monopolize this forum with her chatter, gossip and self-promotion and she does have her fan club. Although there are others who get annoyed by her. They usually stay silent.
She's fine, but there does need to some equalizing force to her banalities. That would be me now and again, when I get the inclination.
Anyway Max, welcome to the dynamics of public forums, it's a complex game.
Anyway: WHAT"S YOUR FAVOURITE PLANT? I mean come on. This forum is going to implode with such dross however stimulating to some.
cheers,
Mick
In reply to Mick:
You may not intend to appear the way that you do. I would reread your posts and listen to the tone if I was you. You seem to have bigger issues than those raised in this post.
You may not intend to appear the way that you do. I would reread your posts and listen to the tone if I was you. You seem to have bigger issues than those raised in this post.
In reply to max:
In reply to max: MAX! youre BACK! i wondered where you were, havent seen you in the L'Escar in ages!
glad you liked the article
In reply to max: MAX! youre BACK! i wondered where you were, havent seen you in the L'Escar in ages!
glad you liked the article
In reply to M_R_R_P:
Haven't time to re-read MRRP. All written posts are open to individual interpretation depending on the unique perspective of the individual.
I refuse to use emoticons but my face and manner is quite relaxed and happy - as yours would be if you lived here in the Sierra Nevada.
Got to have a little on-line amusement though and you are it.
Issues, yes I've got issues -
1. Access problems around here.
2. The Wilderness debate around here is another.
3. How I'm going to represent ridges and valleys on some maps I'm doing for some Sierra alpine route topos.
4. The new Rockfax Gritstone guide.
5. Finding the time to bolt some new routes on a crag I've found.
6. The Japanese distribution of the new Rockfax guide to Las Vegas
All Big and Important Issues to me.
The stuff on here, like I said, mild amusement.
See ya,
Mick
Haven't time to re-read MRRP. All written posts are open to individual interpretation depending on the unique perspective of the individual.
I refuse to use emoticons but my face and manner is quite relaxed and happy - as yours would be if you lived here in the Sierra Nevada.
Got to have a little on-line amusement though and you are it.
Issues, yes I've got issues -
1. Access problems around here.
2. The Wilderness debate around here is another.
3. How I'm going to represent ridges and valleys on some maps I'm doing for some Sierra alpine route topos.
4. The new Rockfax Gritstone guide.
5. Finding the time to bolt some new routes on a crag I've found.
6. The Japanese distribution of the new Rockfax guide to Las Vegas
All Big and Important Issues to me.
The stuff on here, like I said, mild amusement.
See ya,
Mick
In reply to M_R_R_P:
"You seem to have bigger issues than those raised in this post."
And now M_R_R_P you have issues with issues that you perceive me to have.
Ah-tissue, pass me an issue.
Mick
"You seem to have bigger issues than those raised in this post."
And now M_R_R_P you have issues with issues that you perceive me to have.
Ah-tissue, pass me an issue.
Mick
In reply to M_R_R_P:
will you email me so i can talk to you? you are demonstrating remarkable intuition in your various postings, and if there's one thing i like, it's intuitive men/women whichever gender you are. cool.
and max, cheers, i forgot to say thanks to you too, what a guy and naomi, see you this weekend
well that's that sorted out nicely then
will you email me so i can talk to you? you are demonstrating remarkable intuition in your various postings, and if there's one thing i like, it's intuitive men/women whichever gender you are. cool.
and max, cheers, i forgot to say thanks to you too, what a guy and naomi, see you this weekend
well that's that sorted out nicely then
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