UKC

Planning on a visit to Devils Gorge at the weekend, but forecast looks a bit shite to say the least. Was wondering if its steep enough to be climbable in the rain (bouldering or sport)?
Well psyched, looks like theres some killer problems!

In reply to Mike Goldthorp: Also what's it like for seepage after rain?

In reply to @ndyM@rsh@ll: The main sports routes wall are pretty seepy and there will be seepage on there at the weekend i reckon. HIt and miss with the bouldering. I guess its similar to the cave, i have been in the rain and its dry and i have been and its been like soap.
Ed

In reply to Mike Goldthorp:

Should be fine after recent lack of rain. Routes will probably be knackered though

In reply to Mike Goldthorp: Hi Mikey, i did quite a bit of bouldering there when i lived nearby. the routes in the 'gorge' really need a sustained dry and warm spell - they seep a lot and take quite a bit of drainage so are very likely wet and dirty (oo-er!)

Echoes and Grand Canyon are both ace if you do get a chance to try them.

the bouldering is a much better bet - will stay totally dry in the rain but does seem to hold damp for no reason at times. i guess its to do with the aspect: beside river, generally damp and pretty sheltered.

some good info on North Wales Bouldering's site if you havent seen it. do a search for Pantymwyn here:

http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/search.asp

also, a less up to date topo at back of the Rockfax Clwyd Limestone.

everything i did / tried there was very good:

Firestarter
Panty's Down
Be Ruthless
Mental Extension
Thug Mentality
Under the Bridge
Robert Duvall

enjoy!

In reply to Mike Goldthorp:

You've no chance with the routes, they'll be soaked until May at least. The bouldering doesn't really seep but I've been there when its unclimbable due to condensation, a bright clear day you should be ok. Even though its quite low I'd advise plenty of mats or spotters for Pantys Down as the landing is very eroded. Bear in mind rain wn't wash away tick marks, last year the place suffered from some ridiculous tick marking.

In reply to Tyler:

One other thing, the place suffers a lot from local youths lighting fire's in the cave and littering so if you're feeling public spirited you might want to take a poly bag with you.