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How long will it take for the scar to heal, for the newly exposed rock to weather to a dark grit colour? Certainly an eye sore.
Change the route name to Parthian blot?
Sam
Change the route name to Parthian blot?
Sam
In reply to Sam Maguire:
That's what happens when people try to lead climbs that most people top-rope first, several times.
That's what happens when people try to lead climbs that most people top-rope first, several times.
In reply to Darron:
It's less to do with chalk and more to do with ripping large chunks of rock of a climb...
It's less to do with chalk and more to do with ripping large chunks of rock of a climb...
In reply to Sam Maguire:
anyone know how long the Right Unconquerable flake took to weather once a bit of it came off?
anyone know how long the Right Unconquerable flake took to weather once a bit of it came off?
In reply to Sam Maguire: whats the difference between that and chalk everywhere !!!!
In reply to Sam Maguire: Yes. Down with this sort of thing
In reply to Sam Beaton:
It broke off within the last twenty years I think (well snapped off by someone retrieving
one of John Hat's cams!) , so at a guess I'd say between ten an twenty years though it will depend a lot on aspect, etc,
ALC
It broke off within the last twenty years I think (well snapped off by someone retrieving
one of John Hat's cams!) , so at a guess I'd say between ten an twenty years though it will depend a lot on aspect, etc,
ALC
In reply to victorclimber:
Eh?
E
> (In reply to Sam Maguire) whats the difference between that and chalk everywhere !!!!
Eh?
E
IRRELEVANT FACT:
Just been reading a book about the Romans. Apparently 'Parthian Shot' was a technique used by the Parthian (from Iran) archers on horseback.
They would pretend to retreat then whirl their bodies round to release an arrow at the enemy as they galloped away. They perfected this and gave the Romans a hiding in a famous battle at Carrhae. The technique was known as The Parthian Shot.
Some people believe this is where the expression 'parting shot' came from, though I just looked up wiki and they say neigh to that. But then what do they know..
I have no idea where Parthian Blot comes from.
Just been reading a book about the Romans. Apparently 'Parthian Shot' was a technique used by the Parthian (from Iran) archers on horseback.
They would pretend to retreat then whirl their bodies round to release an arrow at the enemy as they galloped away. They perfected this and gave the Romans a hiding in a famous battle at Carrhae. The technique was known as The Parthian Shot.
Some people believe this is where the expression 'parting shot' came from, though I just looked up wiki and they say neigh to that. But then what do they know..
I have no idea where Parthian Blot comes from.
In reply to Tony the Blade: surely with the choice of bolt on holds available the would be a suitable one to bolt in place. if the hold was deemed unsuitable it could be changed for a smaller one. could make the route e10 again. just a thought.
In reply to Vince McNally: No one should mend it.....its part of the course of life...
In reply to DEvans:
I think the main issue is the gear behind the flake rather than it being a crucial hand hold. Might be wrong though.
E
I think the main issue is the gear behind the flake rather than it being a crucial hand hold. Might be wrong though.
E
In reply to Dominion: Yes shame on him really, he's obviously a punter trying to lead a route way above his ability......
http://www.arcteryx.com/Article.aspx?EN&article=Will-Stanhope-Climbs-Le...
http://www.squamishrockguides.com/will_resume.htm etc etc
Another ill informed UKCer who knows better, yawn!!
http://www.arcteryx.com/Article.aspx?EN&article=Will-Stanhope-Climbs-Le...
http://www.squamishrockguides.com/will_resume.htm etc etc
Another ill informed UKCer who knows better, yawn!!
In reply to Enty: better to be safe than sorry, so lets put a hold on anyway.
In reply to Darron:
I know what you mean!
Some people just don't get it do they!!!
In reply to Vince McNally:
I know what you mean!
Some people just don't get it do they!!!
In reply to Vince McNally:
> (In reply to Darron)
>
> Hows that gonna mend a broken flake?
>
> Hows that gonna mend a broken flake?
In reply to Sam Maguire: Do you think John Redhead would get his paint pallette out again and cove cover the scar with a work of art
In reply to a lakeland climber:
I climbed it in April 1988, and I think it had only just been broken off in the weeks before...
> (In reply to Sam Beaton)
>
> It broke off within the last twenty years I think
>
> ALC
>
> It broke off within the last twenty years I think
>
> ALC
I climbed it in April 1988, and I think it had only just been broken off in the weeks before...
In reply to DEvans:
That sums up all that is wrong in Brit climbing today.
> In reply to all
>
> if it would have been bolted it wouldn't have happened.
>
> if it would have been bolted it wouldn't have happened.
That sums up all that is wrong in Brit climbing today.
In reply to Sam Maguire: Everyone knew this was going to pop off one day, people would load a few cams behind it as it was so rattled on stress, in the hope it would hold. I see no problem as it is human nature, 'worry once it's been done'. Some things are just meant to happen, flakes falling off is just normal. Eyesore, not for me, I just like to consider who will be first up it without the use, great!!
In reply to MJ:
I think he means that it hadn't been bolted
> (In reply to stroppygob)
>
> What, a sense of humour?
>
> What, a sense of humour?
I think he means that it hadn't been bolted
In reply to Enty:
I is only the tip of the flake that has gone.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=172271
Chris
I is only the tip of the flake that has gone.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=172271
Chris
In reply to Sam Maguire:
This is inevitably going to happen to trade routes at undeservedly popular crags. Maybe now it's harder and actually someway towards H9, will it become less trashed.
This is inevitably going to happen to trade routes at undeservedly popular crags. Maybe now it's harder and actually someway towards H9, will it become less trashed.
In reply to Chris Craggs: I'm glad you posted that, really not a huge deal really. Now maybe people will get 75 nuts in there rather than the usual 105
In reply to Franco Cookson: Franco, I have been following your exploits from here in the Caribbean, I have asked a few times how you mended after the fall. Care to link me to your afterthoughts where ever you have jotted them?
<hijack over>
<hijack over>
In reply to Dominicandave:
I don't think I have written them down anywhere. I mention stuff in passing here: http://francocookson-climbing.blogspot.com/
I don't think I have written them down anywhere. I mention stuff in passing here: http://francocookson-climbing.blogspot.com/
In reply to Anonymous:
It currently an unclimbed project, so no one can really express an opinion on it.
It currently an unclimbed project, so no one can really express an opinion on it.
In reply to Anonymous:
Only the numbers of punters ground uping it.
Only the numbers of punters ground uping it.
In reply to Anonymous:
I do not understand this comment, please clarify what on eath you are talking about!
> (In reply to Franco Cookson)
> You were insinuating that it wasn't previously E9, a view which you have no basis for.
> You were insinuating that it wasn't previously E9, a view which you have no basis for.
I do not understand this comment, please clarify what on eath you are talking about!
In reply to Anonymous:
What's it got to do with me? How many people have ground uped Esmerelda at Highcliff nab or On the Rocks at back bowden? (both E7) A bug phat 0. How many people have climbed burbage E9 or E10 ground up? Around 10? There's very little in the peak that's not just a boulder problem and actually hard, just a load of soft crap to satisfy sponsors.
What's it got to do with me? How many people have ground uped Esmerelda at Highcliff nab or On the Rocks at back bowden? (both E7) A bug phat 0. How many people have climbed burbage E9 or E10 ground up? Around 10? There's very little in the peak that's not just a boulder problem and actually hard, just a load of soft crap to satisfy sponsors.
In reply to Franco Cookson:
And yet you haven't done any of them yourself. Maybe if you'd repeated just one established test piece the grades you dish out for your own stuff would have some credibility, but you haven't and so you come across as a bit of an egotistical fantasist.
> (In reply to Anonymous)
>
> What's it got to do with me? How many people have ground uped Esmerelda at Highcliff nab or On the Rocks at back bowden? (both E7) A bug phat 0. How many people have climbed burbage E9 or E10 ground up? Around 10? There's very little in the peak that's not just a boulder problem and actually hard, just a load of soft crap to satisfy sponsors.
>
> What's it got to do with me? How many people have ground uped Esmerelda at Highcliff nab or On the Rocks at back bowden? (both E7) A bug phat 0. How many people have climbed burbage E9 or E10 ground up? Around 10? There's very little in the peak that's not just a boulder problem and actually hard, just a load of soft crap to satisfy sponsors.
And yet you haven't done any of them yourself. Maybe if you'd repeated just one established test piece the grades you dish out for your own stuff would have some credibility, but you haven't and so you come across as a bit of an egotistical fantasist.
In reply to Anonymous: so do you commander anonymouse
In reply to Anonymous:
Sage. Seeing as my inability to headpoint bollocks peak trade routes is such an issue, I'll go do one for you. First you have to tell me your name though, so you look like a tool when I do.
Sage. Seeing as my inability to headpoint bollocks peak trade routes is such an issue, I'll go do one for you. First you have to tell me your name though, so you look like a tool when I do.
In reply to Franco Cookson: I think many see the point being made. If you feel like it, maybe it might not be a bad thing to make a mark on an established route, it would silence some, maybe make some question you. Up to you but I'd like to see or read you do something we know is harsh!
In reply to Franco Cookson: Why do anything in climbing purely to please someone else?
In reply to Anonymous: Egotistical as in hiding behind an anon login to give out an aura of perceived knowledge or competence. Fantasist because in all probability you are no more competent than a complete punter such as myself.
In reply to Franco Cookson: Fair enough, I can see you ego from here on the horizon, it's like a giant green saucer.
In reply to MattG:
Depends what you want from it. I doubt you could make a living or write a book in 50 years after climbing Corby crag in Alnwick all your life!
Many people make a name for reasons of claiming sponsorship or even just the buzz of being mentioned in a magazine. It isn't only about soul searching, there are issues in every climber that are never surfaced!
> (In reply to Franco Cookson) Why do anything in climbing purely to please someone else?
Depends what you want from it. I doubt you could make a living or write a book in 50 years after climbing Corby crag in Alnwick all your life!
Many people make a name for reasons of claiming sponsorship or even just the buzz of being mentioned in a magazine. It isn't only about soul searching, there are issues in every climber that are never surfaced!
In reply to Franco Cookson:
Come off it Franco, quit with the narcissism.
You're willing to do load of soft crap Parthian Shot to satisfy some anonymous on the net? Isn't that worse?
> (In reply to Anonymous)
> a load of soft crap to satisfy sponsors.
> a load of soft crap to satisfy sponsors.
Come off it Franco, quit with the narcissism.
You're willing to do load of soft crap Parthian Shot to satisfy some anonymous on the net? Isn't that worse?
In reply to JR:
I want all peak climbing to be sucked into a black hole of insignificance. These 'legendary' lines are nowt but polished crappy boulder problems in the sky, where the inadequate court fame and the lunatics stroll by.
I want all peak climbing to be sucked into a black hole of insignificance. These 'legendary' lines are nowt but polished crappy boulder problems in the sky, where the inadequate court fame and the lunatics stroll by.
In reply to Franco Cookson:
In which case you'd be missing out on some of the best climbing in the UK if not the world.
I suspect the ego-mania will last as long as the grades on your new, and possibly excellent or crappy, unpolished, Moors boulder problems in the sky. Stop being picky about your court and climb for the sake of climbing.
In which case you'd be missing out on some of the best climbing in the UK if not the world.
I suspect the ego-mania will last as long as the grades on your new, and possibly excellent or crappy, unpolished, Moors boulder problems in the sky. Stop being picky about your court and climb for the sake of climbing.
In reply to JR:
I hope not, I want to be rid of this mania soon. On that note, could you please go, or get some of your chums to go and repeat them. We need some consensus
I hope not, I want to be rid of this mania soon. On that note, could you please go, or get some of your chums to go and repeat them. We need some consensus
In reply to Anonymous: and how about you how qualified are you to pass an opinion ..Anonymous !!!!
In reply to Franco Cookson:
Lol! Good to have you back.
Out of interest, as your logbook confuses me with all the top-rope ascents. What's the highest grade you climbed without it being a route graded by you or your mates? Because it seems you only did very few E5's and one E6 'with loads of pads'. Do you feel that qualifies you to grade E7/8's left and right?
Also, since none of your routes have had 'a proper ascent', how come you are grading and naming them, and listing yourself as the FA?
> (In reply to JR)
>
> I want all peak climbing to be sucked into a black hole of insignificance. These 'legendary' lines are nowt but polished crappy boulder problems in the sky, where the inadequate court fame and the lunatics stroll by.
>
> I want all peak climbing to be sucked into a black hole of insignificance. These 'legendary' lines are nowt but polished crappy boulder problems in the sky, where the inadequate court fame and the lunatics stroll by.
Lol! Good to have you back.
Out of interest, as your logbook confuses me with all the top-rope ascents. What's the highest grade you climbed without it being a route graded by you or your mates? Because it seems you only did very few E5's and one E6 'with loads of pads'. Do you feel that qualifies you to grade E7/8's left and right?
Also, since none of your routes have had 'a proper ascent', how come you are grading and naming them, and listing yourself as the FA?
In reply to Franco Cookson:
Is this the same sort of consensus as you up grading Steve Mclures problem at Wainstones to 8a and claiming a repeat standing on a stack of pads.
Is this the same sort of consensus as you up grading Steve Mclures problem at Wainstones to 8a and claiming a repeat standing on a stack of pads.
In reply to MattG:
You're pretty anon as MattG. The G could stand for lots of surnames.
I think the anonymous poster is making a valid point myself, that Franco Cookson can't be dismissive about routes or thier grades without climbing them first, or climbing on them.
Cheers
Tim
> (In reply to Anonymous) Egotistical as in hiding behind an anon login to give out an aura of perceived knowledge or competence. Fantasist because in all probability you are no more competent than a complete punter such as myself.
You're pretty anon as MattG. The G could stand for lots of surnames.
I think the anonymous poster is making a valid point myself, that Franco Cookson can't be dismissive about routes or thier grades without climbing them first, or climbing on them.
Cheers
Tim
In reply to Timmd: Or indeed my real name could be Samantha and yours could be Jeffrey...
In reply to MattG:Indeed.
In reply to webbo:
Isn't V11 foont 8a? And I've done it with no pads since. 2 pads hardly constitutes a stack and it doesn't help for this route at all!
Isn't V11 foont 8a? And I've done it with no pads since. 2 pads hardly constitutes a stack and it doesn't help for this route at all!
In reply to TheAvenger:
I don't feel qualified, but i'm not really claiming anything. I climbed the routes cause they were good/exceptional lines that hadn't been climbed. Routes generally have names and grades, so I gave the ones we put up names and grades.
I think you misunderstand the whole H grade thing. I think a headpointed ascent is still an ascent, just a lesser one. I would be in favour of a system where routes were renamed and creditted to the first onsight ascent, but I am living inside the current system, which would be difficult to change.
I would put money on the eventual consensus grades of my routes being the same I have given them, but as always if you don't think the Hypocrisy of Moose would be E8 to ground up, then go do it! Headpoint them too if you like.
The way I see it, I climbed a route more than a year ago, got a load of abuse about how it can't possibly be E8, but yet no one has gone and done it. If it's only E6 it should only take most of you an afternoon to do it, so get on it!
I don't feel qualified, but i'm not really claiming anything. I climbed the routes cause they were good/exceptional lines that hadn't been climbed. Routes generally have names and grades, so I gave the ones we put up names and grades.
I think you misunderstand the whole H grade thing. I think a headpointed ascent is still an ascent, just a lesser one. I would be in favour of a system where routes were renamed and creditted to the first onsight ascent, but I am living inside the current system, which would be difficult to change.
I would put money on the eventual consensus grades of my routes being the same I have given them, but as always if you don't think the Hypocrisy of Moose would be E8 to ground up, then go do it! Headpoint them too if you like.
The way I see it, I climbed a route more than a year ago, got a load of abuse about how it can't possibly be E8, but yet no one has gone and done it. If it's only E6 it should only take most of you an afternoon to do it, so get on it!
In reply to Franco Cookson:
"I would be in favour of a system where routes were renamed and creditted to the first onsight ascent, but I am living inside the current system, which would be difficult to change."
Bet guidebook writers would love that!
> (In reply to TheAvenger)
"I would be in favour of a system where routes were renamed and creditted to the first onsight ascent, but I am living inside the current system, which would be difficult to change."
Bet guidebook writers would love that!
In reply to Southern Man:
I tried it with some miniguides I produced, but it's just insanely difficult. There is obviously no record kept, except for the cutting edge stuff, so then you'd have to have a grade cut off and it would all become very elitist. It would be nice to have them jotted down with the fa details though on stuff that is known about. I'd find it as interesting to know who got the balls to finally climb a route ground up, as to know who top roped an unclimbed line 400 times then led it.
I tried it with some miniguides I produced, but it's just insanely difficult. There is obviously no record kept, except for the cutting edge stuff, so then you'd have to have a grade cut off and it would all become very elitist. It would be nice to have them jotted down with the fa details though on stuff that is known about. I'd find it as interesting to know who got the balls to finally climb a route ground up, as to know who top roped an unclimbed line 400 times then led it.
In reply to Franco Cookson:
I agree, definitely worth recording wherever possible. The CC usually have FA & FFA info in their first ascent chronology in the reverse of their guides, wouldn't take much to include FOS too I guess. It's one of the most endearing(enduring?) things about CC guides I think, be nice if everyone included FA lists, as a concise history if nothing else.
I agree, definitely worth recording wherever possible. The CC usually have FA & FFA info in their first ascent chronology in the reverse of their guides, wouldn't take much to include FOS too I guess. It's one of the most endearing(enduring?) things about CC guides I think, be nice if everyone included FA lists, as a concise history if nothing else.
In reply to Franco Cookson:
That's because everyone who tried to find it got lost and/or murdered on the moors
> The way I see it, I climbed a route more than a year ago, got a load of abuse about how it can't possibly be E8, but yet no one has gone and done it.
That's because everyone who tried to find it got lost and/or murdered on the moors
In reply to Southern Man:
Steve Crowe's Guide handles it best I think. He has a short italicised section under each route, with fa details and any anecdotes. This is twinned with a history section of important events at each crag. I can't stand the guides where you have a date and have to look at the index at the back to see who climbed it, seems such a nonsensical way of doing things, but I suppose it saves space...
Steve Crowe's Guide handles it best I think. He has a short italicised section under each route, with fa details and any anecdotes. This is twinned with a history section of important events at each crag. I can't stand the guides where you have a date and have to look at the index at the back to see who climbed it, seems such a nonsensical way of doing things, but I suppose it saves space...
In reply to Franco Cookson:
If you live by the sword Franco, people will expect you to die by it. You're judged by the grade you claim it to be, accurate or otherwise.
You might not feel qualified but you can rationally have a good go and I have no opinion on whether there are ulterior motives at play. It's easy to look through the past and see climber who've learnt grading the hard way...
I'm actually positive some of these routes will be very good, and IRT your previous post I was talking earlier today about a trip up there so maybe we'll see. It's just miles away from most of the UK.
Let's not have renaming and crediting, irrational step too far, and I think you know it.
Anyway back to Parthian...
If you live by the sword Franco, people will expect you to die by it. You're judged by the grade you claim it to be, accurate or otherwise.
You might not feel qualified but you can rationally have a good go and I have no opinion on whether there are ulterior motives at play. It's easy to look through the past and see climber who've learnt grading the hard way...
I'm actually positive some of these routes will be very good, and IRT your previous post I was talking earlier today about a trip up there so maybe we'll see. It's just miles away from most of the UK.
Let's not have renaming and crediting, irrational step too far, and I think you know it.
Anyway back to Parthian...
In reply to Franco Cookson:
Given you probably got a foot reach on steve mac and 2 pads aren't a stack and he gave it v10.Talk about bring it down to your own level.
Lol
Given you probably got a foot reach on steve mac and 2 pads aren't a stack and he gave it v10.Talk about bring it down to your own level.
Lol
In reply to Franco Cookson:
Parthian Shot?
> (In reply to Anonymous)
>
> oright then, name a route in the peak.
>
> oright then, name a route in the peak.
Parthian Shot?
In reply to remus:
Given Franco is bordering on 6 foot standing on 2 or more pads means you can reach those holds with your arms bent.Where as without you can barely reach that right hand hold.
Strangely its been climbed at 7c off a beer towel.But then again thats by someone who does get a round a bit so is a little more aware of the general consensus in regard to grades.
Given Franco is bordering on 6 foot standing on 2 or more pads means you can reach those holds with your arms bent.Where as without you can barely reach that right hand hold.
Strangely its been climbed at 7c off a beer towel.But then again thats by someone who does get a round a bit so is a little more aware of the general consensus in regard to grades.
In reply to Sam Maguire:
I think you need to maaitain a sense of sperspective it's a small patch of lighter unweathered rock. Whilst it was broken by the cations of a climber this time the process of rock breaking off and the exposed rock weathering is a natural process. It's not worth fretting over.
> How long will it take for the scar to heal, for the newly exposed rock to weather to a dark grit colour? Certainly an eye sore.
I think you need to maaitain a sense of sperspective it's a small patch of lighter unweathered rock. Whilst it was broken by the cations of a climber this time the process of rock breaking off and the exposed rock weathering is a natural process. It's not worth fretting over.
In reply to Franco Cookson:
Whatever your opinions on climbing, you seem pretty ballsy from looking at a few youtube videos.
Take it easy-ish. ()
Whatever your opinions on climbing, you seem pretty ballsy from looking at a few youtube videos.
Take it easy-ish. ()
In reply to webbo:
I don't see how you can bollock me for claiming a grade that someone else gave it! Like I said, i've done it without pads, pads don't help. I didn't find it V11/font 8a, but then i'm sure you'd have all been on my back if I'd been saying 'ste mac overgrades routes'. I don't think he did, for someone of his height with probably a worse sequence it might be V11, but who cares? It's only a boulder problem.
I don't see how you can bollock me for claiming a grade that someone else gave it! Like I said, i've done it without pads, pads don't help. I didn't find it V11/font 8a, but then i'm sure you'd have all been on my back if I'd been saying 'ste mac overgrades routes'. I don't think he did, for someone of his height with probably a worse sequence it might be V11, but who cares? It's only a boulder problem.
In reply to webbo:
"Given Franco is bordering on 6 foot..."
Height has nothing to do with it, you dont get extra points for being short.
"... standing on 2 or more pads means you can reach those holds with your arms bent."
2 or more pads? perhaps he's hiding a small stool under there as well. Do you not think his height might play a part in whether you can reach the holds with bent arms?
"Where as without you can barely reach that right hand hold."
Back to that height thing again.
I really despair some times. What is the world coming to when we are criticizing someone who is completely open and honest about their style and ethics, who is going round cleaning up routes so others can enjoy them and who is putting up his own new routes that others can come and enjoy.
You may not agree with his opinions but who gives a flying f*ck. At the end of the day (what i presume to be) good climbing is being done in an open and honest way.
"Given Franco is bordering on 6 foot..."
Height has nothing to do with it, you dont get extra points for being short.
"... standing on 2 or more pads means you can reach those holds with your arms bent."
2 or more pads? perhaps he's hiding a small stool under there as well. Do you not think his height might play a part in whether you can reach the holds with bent arms?
"Where as without you can barely reach that right hand hold."
Back to that height thing again.
I really despair some times. What is the world coming to when we are criticizing someone who is completely open and honest about their style and ethics, who is going round cleaning up routes so others can enjoy them and who is putting up his own new routes that others can come and enjoy.
You may not agree with his opinions but who gives a flying f*ck. At the end of the day (what i presume to be) good climbing is being done in an open and honest way.
In reply to remus:
I think you might find if you read all the posts Franco was the one criticizing routes in the peak for being overgraded and polished despite not having done them.If you don't give a flying f*ck why get involved.
I think you might find if you read all the posts Franco was the one criticizing routes in the peak for being overgraded and polished despite not having done them.If you don't give a flying f*ck why get involved.
In reply to webbo: Because i enjoy climbing and it annoys me to see you lessen it with cheap criticism.
In reply to Franco Cookson: Would be nice to have you compare some honeypot hard route to the ones you've produced. Doesn't have to be the Peak but I think you'd get more traffic if you said Waves of Inspiration definitely comes in as hard H7 7a in comparison to Braille Trail E7 6c (H6 6c) for example.
In reply to remus:
It is 'only climbing' though, i'm more perturbed by footage of some of Franco's sketchy moments on youtube.
Climb carefully Franco!
It is 'only climbing' though, i'm more perturbed by footage of some of Franco's sketchy moments on youtube.
Climb carefully Franco!
In reply to Sam Maguire: I'm not trolling, I am genuinly amazed that people are still going on about this. Flakes fall off eventually, even if there's not a soul within 500 miles. I don't know if this one would have lasted without a fall on it, but if it was weak enough to be taken down with a fall it can't have had too long left before nature took it's toll surely?
And even if the chap had done something wrong, don't people just make mistakes any more?
Sheesh.
And even if the chap had done something wrong, don't people just make mistakes any more?
Sheesh.
In reply to Franco Cookson:
I've no idea who anonymous is and even though most of his/her posts have been deleted, from your replies I'm guessing I would have agreed with everything he/she said. So on that basis I nominate you headpoint Dangermouse at Wimberry and then come back on here (or get wheeled in by a friend) and remind us all how soft and shit the peak is.
Yours sincerely Jon Fullwood
> (In reply to Anonymous)
>
> Sage. Seeing as my inability to headpoint bollocks peak trade routes is such an issue, I'll go do one for you. First you have to tell me your name though, so you look like a tool when I do.
>
> Sage. Seeing as my inability to headpoint bollocks peak trade routes is such an issue, I'll go do one for you. First you have to tell me your name though, so you look like a tool when I do.
I've no idea who anonymous is and even though most of his/her posts have been deleted, from your replies I'm guessing I would have agreed with everything he/she said. So on that basis I nominate you headpoint Dangermouse at Wimberry and then come back on here (or get wheeled in by a friend) and remind us all how soft and shit the peak is.
Yours sincerely Jon Fullwood
In reply to Paul035: have you been readin simon scarrows books?
In reply to Wonko The Sane:
I the chunk of rock hadn't been levered of by the huge force applied, it would have sat there for the next few millennia slowly weathering away.
Chris
> I don't know if this one would have lasted without a fall on it, but if it was weak enough to be taken down with a fall it can't have had too long left before nature took it's toll surely?
>
>
I the chunk of rock hadn't been levered of by the huge force applied, it would have sat there for the next few millennia slowly weathering away.
Chris
In reply to Chris Craggs:
I've not seen it so can't comment. But winter expansion and contraction place huge forces on rock splits also.
But ok..... if that is indeed the case and the climber made an error, it WAS done quite a while ago now! And people do make mistakes. I can't find it in myself to continually lambast someone for an error they make. You never know, you might be the one making the mistake one day.
> (In reply to Wonko The Sane)
> [...]
>
> I the chunk of rock hadn't been levered of by the huge force applied, it would have sat there for the next few millennia slowly weathering away.
>
>
> Chris
> [...]
>
> I the chunk of rock hadn't been levered of by the huge force applied, it would have sat there for the next few millennia slowly weathering away.
>
>
> Chris
I've not seen it so can't comment. But winter expansion and contraction place huge forces on rock splits also.
But ok..... if that is indeed the case and the climber made an error, it WAS done quite a while ago now! And people do make mistakes. I can't find it in myself to continually lambast someone for an error they make. You never know, you might be the one making the mistake one day.
In reply to Wonko The Sane:
Hmm, can you point to even one post in this thread critical of the climber?
> I can't find it in myself to continually lambast someone for an error they make.
Hmm, can you point to even one post in this thread critical of the climber?
In reply to remus:
The funny thing about that video is that if you look at the trouser waistline re the lip of the roof in the very opening sequence and compare the same things in the sequence of the ascent (when the camera angle means you can't see the feet or pads) the it would appear that legs have grown about a foot in the intervening minutes. A comparison of head height and the 'boss' of rock up R (touched at 11 seconds into the video) is similarly confusing.
Or is it just me missing something obvious?
> (In reply to webbo) youtube.com/watch?v=Y3carpvzsbQ&
>
> Care to explain how stacking pads helped here?
>
> Care to explain how stacking pads helped here?
The funny thing about that video is that if you look at the trouser waistline re the lip of the roof in the very opening sequence and compare the same things in the sequence of the ascent (when the camera angle means you can't see the feet or pads) the it would appear that legs have grown about a foot in the intervening minutes. A comparison of head height and the 'boss' of rock up R (touched at 11 seconds into the video) is similarly confusing.
Or is it just me missing something obvious?
In reply to Andy Say:
£20 says I can do it sans pads in front of your eyes.
RE Dangermouse offer: You're on. I won't be in England until july next year and wont be around the western peak until the next academic year after that, but then we'll see. Looks like a nice line too and somewhere in the peak that's actually inspiring!
£20 says I can do it sans pads in front of your eyes.
RE Dangermouse offer: You're on. I won't be in England until july next year and wont be around the western peak until the next academic year after that, but then we'll see. Looks like a nice line too and somewhere in the peak that's actually inspiring!
In reply to Andy Say:
The second shot is from a lower angle, so yes, Franco would appear to be higher relative to the rock than in the first shot, despite still standing on just the two pads.
> (In reply to remus)
> [...]
>
>
>
> Or is it just me missing something obvious?
> [...]
>
>
>
> Or is it just me missing something obvious?
The second shot is from a lower angle, so yes, Franco would appear to be higher relative to the rock than in the first shot, despite still standing on just the two pads.
In reply to Coel Hellier: To be fair, having a read halfway down, only one. The last thread I read on the subject was crammed with them.
In reply to Sam Maguire:
Franco it might be worth remembering that most of the new route development in the peak happens from the silent majority of unknown climbers who operate largely outside of the public eye and just get on quietly with trying to advance the sport they love. It's also worth mentioning that they do far less self publicising than you in terms of trying to get their routes noticed.
Franco it might be worth remembering that most of the new route development in the peak happens from the silent majority of unknown climbers who operate largely outside of the public eye and just get on quietly with trying to advance the sport they love. It's also worth mentioning that they do far less self publicising than you in terms of trying to get their routes noticed.
In reply to Franco Cookson:
UKC has been disappointingly tame lately. Now we have a thread veering totally off course, and culminating in the acceptance of a dare to climb a dangerous grit E9.
Ahhhh, the UKC we have come to know and love is back.
>
> RE Dangermouse offer: You're on.
> RE Dangermouse offer: You're on.
UKC has been disappointingly tame lately. Now we have a thread veering totally off course, and culminating in the acceptance of a dare to climb a dangerous grit E9.
Ahhhh, the UKC we have come to know and love is back.
In reply to Wonko The Sane:
There is a photo-link back up the thread a bit.
Chris
>
> I've not seen it so can't comment. But winter expansion and contraction place huge forces on rock splits also.
>
>> I've not seen it so can't comment. But winter expansion and contraction place huge forces on rock splits also.
>
There is a photo-link back up the thread a bit.
Chris
In reply to Wonko The Sane:
I must have missed it since I didn't even see one. Most of this thread seems to be Franco trolling!
I suspect it wasn't so much criticism of the climber, as "comment" on the somewhat peculiar hush-hush that surrounded the topic. I don't think many people are actually critical of the climber; it could have been any one of the previous list of notables who had taken falls on that flake.
> To be fair, having a read halfway down, only one. ...
I must have missed it since I didn't even see one. Most of this thread seems to be Franco trolling!
> The last thread I read on the subject was crammed with them.
I suspect it wasn't so much criticism of the climber, as "comment" on the somewhat peculiar hush-hush that surrounded the topic. I don't think many people are actually critical of the climber; it could have been any one of the previous list of notables who had taken falls on that flake.
In reply to moo:
It's not self publicising, it's moors publicising. And I haven't actually publicised it- just put it on my blog. I was toying with the idea of writing up the new moors events and sending them to a magazine or UKC in the hope the area would get publicity in a similar way to the new discovery 'the roost' did, but I realised it would be impossible to do it without sounding like an ego maniac so unfortunately would-be moors lovers may have missed out on getting psyched. Just another loss caused by the mass ego of UKC.
It's not self publicising, it's moors publicising. And I haven't actually publicised it- just put it on my blog. I was toying with the idea of writing up the new moors events and sending them to a magazine or UKC in the hope the area would get publicity in a similar way to the new discovery 'the roost' did, but I realised it would be impossible to do it without sounding like an ego maniac so unfortunately would-be moors lovers may have missed out on getting psyched. Just another loss caused by the mass ego of UKC.
In reply to Franco Cookson:
Don't take any notice of people on UKC.
A guy who removed a chockstone from a Joe Brown route which he didn't use a chockstone on got flamed, and a group got together and put a new chockstone in. Which seems like a backwards step to me ethically speaking.
Anyway, somewhere new to climb is always good, i'd be interested in moors climbing, and it'd take pressure off other areas.
Cheers
Tim
Don't take any notice of people on UKC.
A guy who removed a chockstone from a Joe Brown route which he didn't use a chockstone on got flamed, and a group got together and put a new chockstone in. Which seems like a backwards step to me ethically speaking.
Anyway, somewhere new to climb is always good, i'd be interested in moors climbing, and it'd take pressure off other areas.
Cheers
Tim
In reply to Franco Cookson: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=179687
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=142002
I can see why the moors are so much more inspirational. ;0) the major problem I suppose is that the peak is so accessible so will always be more popular.
I see the point that the moors are probably more wild and beautiful in an exposed/underdeveloped way, but to say there are no inspirational routes in the peak is coming across being dogmatic for the sake of being dogmatic without actually thinking about what you are saying.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=142002
I can see why the moors are so much more inspirational. ;0) the major problem I suppose is that the peak is so accessible so will always be more popular.
I see the point that the moors are probably more wild and beautiful in an exposed/underdeveloped way, but to say there are no inspirational routes in the peak is coming across being dogmatic for the sake of being dogmatic without actually thinking about what you are saying.
In reply to remus:
> (In reply to webbo) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y3carpvzsbQ
Ha ha, I'm with webbo on this one, thats a f*cking joke.
Nice tick....................
>
> Care to explain how stacking pads helped here?
> Care to explain how stacking pads helped here?
Ha ha, I'm with webbo on this one, thats a f*cking joke.
Nice tick....................
In reply to smithaldo:
Inspirational is subjective too.
> (In reply to Franco Cookson)
> I see the point that the moors are probably more wild and beautiful in an exposed/underdeveloped way, but to say there are no inspirational routes in the peak is coming across being dogmatic for the sake of being dogmatic without actually thinking about what you are saying.
Inspirational is subjective too.
In reply to moo:
Ah yes, these mythical hot shots that nobody has ever heard of or witnessed...
> most of the new route development in the peak happens from the silent majority of unknown climbers who operate largely outside of the public eye
Ah yes, these mythical hot shots that nobody has ever heard of or witnessed...
In reply to timjones:
Imagine what his anions could do
To the OP, personally I think that what's done is done. A new challenge awaits the worthy leader.
> (In reply to Sam Maguire)
> [...]
>
> Whilst it was broken by the cations of a climber ....
> [...]
>
> Whilst it was broken by the cations of a climber ....
Imagine what his anions could do
To the OP, personally I think that what's done is done. A new challenge awaits the worthy leader.
In reply to Franco Cookson:
How come when I met you out bouldering you were quiet as a mouse not expressing wild opinions
like you do on here.
How come when I met you out bouldering you were quiet as a mouse not expressing wild opinions
like you do on here.
In reply to Toreador:
I don't know about The Peak but there's more than one or two in East Lancs and Yorkshire!
E
> (In reply to moo)
> [...]
>
> Ah yes, these mythical hot shots that nobody has ever heard of or witnessed...
> [...]
>
> Ah yes, these mythical hot shots that nobody has ever heard of or witnessed...
I don't know about The Peak but there's more than one or two in East Lancs and Yorkshire!
E
In reply to webbo:
Because it's too easy for him to wind people up on here. He's got the UKC wind up game nailed, and most people are happy to feed it and then get surprised when they're wound up by him. He's not doing anything maliciously wrong per se, no more than being a young ego-maniac, and in everyone harping on about it, it gets fed more. 10 years ago (maybe 15 actually) he'd never have had a platform and he'd be the quiet mouse at the crag you bumped into once who climbed quite well.
Because it's too easy for him to wind people up on here. He's got the UKC wind up game nailed, and most people are happy to feed it and then get surprised when they're wound up by him. He's not doing anything maliciously wrong per se, no more than being a young ego-maniac, and in everyone harping on about it, it gets fed more. 10 years ago (maybe 15 actually) he'd never have had a platform and he'd be the quiet mouse at the crag you bumped into once who climbed quite well.
In reply to Franco Cookson:
You've missed the point entirely fella. The joke was your 'tick'
> (In reply to Gorilla)
>
>
> Bouldering. Yehhhhh. Haha, what a joke of a sport.
>
>
> Bouldering. Yehhhhh. Haha, what a joke of a sport.
You've missed the point entirely fella. The joke was your 'tick'
In reply to webbo:
Because he is an immature cock?
Good spot on the youtube vid by the way what a joke.
> (In reply to Franco Cookson)
> How come when I met you out bouldering you were quiet as a mouse not expressing wild opinions
> like you do on here.
> How come when I met you out bouldering you were quiet as a mouse not expressing wild opinions
> like you do on here.
Because he is an immature cock?
Good spot on the youtube vid by the way what a joke.
In reply to John1923:
Did you mean "If you can climb Partian Shot when all those around you are puntering, then you are a man my son?
Chris
> (In reply to Franco Cookson)
>
> If you can climb Parthian shot ground up, then you are not a punter.h
>
> If you can climb Parthian shot ground up, then you are not a punter.h
Did you mean "If you can climb Partian Shot when all those around you are puntering, then you are a man my son?
Chris
In reply to Gorilla:
Are you saying that 'The funny thing about that video is that if you look at the trouser waistline re the lip of the roof in the very opening sequence and compare the same things in the sequence of the ascent (when the camera angle means you can't see the feet or pads) the it would appear that legs have grown about a foot in the intervening minutes. A comparison of head height and the 'boss' of rock up R (touched at 11 seconds into the video) is similarly confusing.'
Is not simply about a change in camera angle?
> (In reply to webbo)
> [...]
>
> Because he is an immature cock?
> Good spot on the youtube vid by the way what a joke.
> [...]
>
> Because he is an immature cock?
> Good spot on the youtube vid by the way what a joke.
Are you saying that 'The funny thing about that video is that if you look at the trouser waistline re the lip of the roof in the very opening sequence and compare the same things in the sequence of the ascent (when the camera angle means you can't see the feet or pads) the it would appear that legs have grown about a foot in the intervening minutes. A comparison of head height and the 'boss' of rock up R (touched at 11 seconds into the video) is similarly confusing.'
Is not simply about a change in camera angle?
In reply to Chris Craggs:
Kipling?
> (In reply to John1923)
> [...]
>
>
> Did you mean "If you can climb Partian Shot when all those around you are puntering, then you are a man my son?
>
>
> Chris
> [...]
>
>
> Did you mean "If you can climb Partian Shot when all those around you are puntering, then you are a man my son?
>
>
> Chris
Kipling?
In reply to jonny2vests:
No mate, I haven't Kipled in ages.
> (In reply to Chris Craggs)
> [...]
>
> Kipling?
> [...]
>
> Kipling?
No mate, I haven't Kipled in ages.
In reply to andyathome:
It's their last grasp at trying to wind me up. But luckily I can spot trolls quite well, like JR
It's their last grasp at trying to wind me up. But luckily I can spot trolls quite well, like JR
In reply to Wonko The Sane:
And if that was my post - which someone does seem to have taken completely seriously - it was not intended as a criticism of the climber.
In my head, it was a comment on the differing types of damage to a climb that can happen when a climb is top-roped, and the same climb is climbed with pro.
> To be fair, having a read halfway down, only one. The last thread I read on the subject was crammed with them.
And if that was my post - which someone does seem to have taken completely seriously - it was not intended as a criticism of the climber.
In my head, it was a comment on the differing types of damage to a climb that can happen when a climb is top-roped, and the same climb is climbed with pro.
In reply to webbo:
was this at clemmitt's? Probably because bouldering in them woods calms me down and you probably weren't slagging off all my new routes. I can be equally confrontational to people in real life, if they have a go at me, or I see them drilling bolts, it's just that normally the vocal ones on here are recluses. (probably why they took up bouldering)
> (In reply to Franco Cookson)
> How come when I met you out bouldering you were quiet as a mouse not expressing wild opinions
> like you do on here.
> How come when I met you out bouldering you were quiet as a mouse not expressing wild opinions
> like you do on here.
was this at clemmitt's? Probably because bouldering in them woods calms me down and you probably weren't slagging off all my new routes. I can be equally confrontational to people in real life, if they have a go at me, or I see them drilling bolts, it's just that normally the vocal ones on here are recluses. (probably why they took up bouldering)
In reply to Franco Cookson: Who exactly has slagged off your routes? I think people are probably nowhere near as bothered by you or your routes as you imagine. When people are selecting what route they are going to climb next, their first criteria probably isn't "I wander what that irritating bloke on UKC would want me to climb", especially not the ones who are likely to do them. Personally, I live in Bristol and I don't want to travel for 5 hours to the North York Moors to climb a fairly grotty looking piece of sandstone. I'm going to Cheddar tonight to try an obscure link up. I happen to think it's brilliant. However, I won't be that bothered if you don't travel down here to try it. The main reason i'm trying it is because it's 20 minutes from where I work. At the weekend I will probably go and climb on some sea cliffs, because that's what I like best.
The bottom line is, it's just rock climbing. You're ferocious "passion" or whatever it is, would probably be put to better use solving world hunger or something.
I'm not a huge fan of the grit, and think it is a bit overated. But to claim there's no good climbing there is just a bit stupid.
p.s. On the rocks has been climbed ground up.
The bottom line is, it's just rock climbing. You're ferocious "passion" or whatever it is, would probably be put to better use solving world hunger or something.
I'm not a huge fan of the grit, and think it is a bit overated. But to claim there's no good climbing there is just a bit stupid.
p.s. On the rocks has been climbed ground up.
In reply to GDes:
Yes, by Hugh Harris at least I believe.
> p.s. On the rocks has been climbed ground up.
Yes, by Hugh Harris at least I believe.
In reply to GDes:
Brilliant. I'm with you 100%.
> (In reply to Franco Cookson) Who exactly has slagged off your routes? I think people are probably nowhere near as bothered by you or your routes as you imagine. When people are selecting what route they are going to climb next, their first criteria probably isn't "I wander what that irritating bloke on UKC would want me to climb", especially not the ones who are likely to do them. Personally, I live in Bristol and I don't want to travel for 5 hours to the North York Moors to climb a fairly grotty looking piece of sandstone. I'm going to Cheddar tonight to try an obscure link up. I happen to think it's brilliant. However, I won't be that bothered if you don't travel down here to try it. The main reason i'm trying it is because it's 20 minutes from where I work. At the weekend I will probably go and climb on some sea cliffs, because that's what I like best.
>
> The bottom line is, it's just rock climbing. You're ferocious "passion" or whatever it is, would probably be put to better use solving world hunger or something.
>
> I'm not a huge fan of the grit, and think it is a bit overated. But to claim there's no good climbing there is just a bit stupid.
>
> p.s. On the rocks has been climbed ground up.
>
> The bottom line is, it's just rock climbing. You're ferocious "passion" or whatever it is, would probably be put to better use solving world hunger or something.
>
> I'm not a huge fan of the grit, and think it is a bit overated. But to claim there's no good climbing there is just a bit stupid.
>
> p.s. On the rocks has been climbed ground up.
Brilliant. I'm with you 100%.
In reply to jonny2vests:
Great. So conclusion is:
moors is ok. Peak is ok. Cheddar is ok. Climbing isn't very important. I'm glad we got that sorted- nowt like passion.
Great. So conclusion is:
moors is ok. Peak is ok. Cheddar is ok. Climbing isn't very important. I'm glad we got that sorted- nowt like passion.
In reply to Franco Cookson:
Listen very hard and you might just hear a tiny sound blowing northwards on the breeze. That'll the sound of me not holding my breath.
However, good luck to you sir. I'll be more than pleased to eat my Colin Binks circa 1990 pink velvety hat if you bring proof of success.
> (In reply to Andy Say)
>
>
> RE Dangermouse offer: You're on. I won't be in England until july next year and wont be around the western peak until the next academic year after that, but then we'll see. Looks like a nice line too and somewhere in the peak that's actually inspiring!
>
>
> RE Dangermouse offer: You're on. I won't be in England until july next year and wont be around the western peak until the next academic year after that, but then we'll see. Looks like a nice line too and somewhere in the peak that's actually inspiring!
Listen very hard and you might just hear a tiny sound blowing northwards on the breeze. That'll the sound of me not holding my breath.
However, good luck to you sir. I'll be more than pleased to eat my Colin Binks circa 1990 pink velvety hat if you bring proof of success.
In reply to Franco Cookson:
Oh the irony.
P.S. - JR I hope you don't count me as one of those 'wound-up' by FC. I'm just enjoying shooting fish in a barrel on my lunch break
> (In reply to moo)
>
> It's not self publicising, it's moors publicising. And I haven't actually publicised it- just put it on my blog. I was toying with the idea of writing up the new moors events .... ....but I realised it would be impossible to do it without sounding like an ego maniac.
>
> It's not self publicising, it's moors publicising. And I haven't actually publicised it- just put it on my blog. I was toying with the idea of writing up the new moors events .... ....but I realised it would be impossible to do it without sounding like an ego maniac.
Oh the irony.
P.S. - JR I hope you don't count me as one of those 'wound-up' by FC. I'm just enjoying shooting fish in a barrel on my lunch break
In reply to Boy:
Funny that...
> (In reply to Franco Cookson)
> [...]
>
> Oh the irony.
>
> P.S. - JR I hope you don't count me as one of those 'wound-up' by FC. I'm just enjoying shooting fish in a barrel on my lunch break
> [...]
>
> Oh the irony.
>
> P.S. - JR I hope you don't count me as one of those 'wound-up' by FC. I'm just enjoying shooting fish in a barrel on my lunch break
Funny that...
Wow, ganged up on by the Moughton Nab massive!
Franco - You can stop waving that thing around and pull your pants back up for the time being. You don't actually get to crow about how fantastic you are until AFTER you've done the route. That's the point, get it?
Franco - You can stop waving that thing around and pull your pants back up for the time being. You don't actually get to crow about how fantastic you are until AFTER you've done the route. That's the point, get it?
In reply to Boy:
I'm warming up. And I can crow all I like, I am afterall the only person to have climbed the best route in the world´the waves of inspiration. I feel one step nearer to god already.
I'm warming up. And I can crow all I like, I am afterall the only person to have climbed the best route in the world´the waves of inspiration. I feel one step nearer to god already.
In reply to Franco Cookson and Boy:
Let's all just go and have a troll party under the bridge at New Mills, plenty more to feed on there. You ever been Franco?
Let's all just go and have a troll party under the bridge at New Mills, plenty more to feed on there. You ever been Franco?
In reply to Franco Cookson:
Good effort ticking every other route in the world. And all before puberty too.
> (In reply to Boy)
>
> I'm warming up. And I can crow all I like, I am afterall the only person to have climbed the best route in the world´the waves of inspiration.
>
> I'm warming up. And I can crow all I like, I am afterall the only person to have climbed the best route in the world´the waves of inspiration.
Good effort ticking every other route in the world. And all before puberty too.
In reply to Sam Maguire:
This has to be a candidate for the most hijacked thread on the entire internet.
I've just complained to trading standards.
This has to be a candidate for the most hijacked thread on the entire internet.
I've just complained to trading standards.
In reply to Franco Cookson:
I will look forward to you being more forthright when our paths cross again I will be sure to offer some critism to start you off.
> (In reply to webbo)
> [...]
>
> was this at clemmitt's? Probably because bouldering in them woods calms me down and you probably weren't slagging off all my new routes. I can be equally confrontational to people in real life, if they have a go at me, or I see them drilling bolts, it's just that normally the vocal ones on here are recluses. (probably why they took up bouldering)
> [...]
>
> was this at clemmitt's? Probably because bouldering in them woods calms me down and you probably weren't slagging off all my new routes. I can be equally confrontational to people in real life, if they have a go at me, or I see them drilling bolts, it's just that normally the vocal ones on here are recluses. (probably why they took up bouldering)
I will look forward to you being more forthright when our paths cross again I will be sure to offer some critism to start you off.
In reply to webbo:
>
> I will look forward to you being more forthright when our paths cross again I will be sure to offer some critism to start you off.
> I will look forward to you being more forthright when our paths cross again I will be sure to offer some critism to start you off.
In reply to Franco Cookson:
> (In reply to webbo)
>
> This threads great, already got myself into doing an E9 and having a fight.
Maybe I will need to bring my recently rescued kitten for back up.>
> This threads great, already got myself into doing an E9 and having a fight.
In reply to webbo:
I also recently rescued a kitten. Maybe we could just let them fight it out and then both come back on here and pretend we're well hard over the internet again.
I also recently rescued a kitten. Maybe we could just let them fight it out and then both come back on here and pretend we're well hard over the internet again.
In reply to Franco Cookson: Oi! Frankie, have you fallen onto either of the wee tricams yet? That would convince me that you are hard. Or light. Or thick. Or possibly all three.
In reply to TobyA:
Haha. Not yet! I had a good fiddle around on the project in question and the little one just about fits in (sideways and very shallow). Perhaps I got my measurements wrong, or perhaps the 1 failing of the tricams is that they are a lot wider than they are tall, so the listed sizing range is useless for small, circular pockets! Amazing piece of kit though, It'll be a good few months till I get back to england though, so if you need them for anything, give me a shout and I'll get my mother to send them back to you. Thanks again
Haha. Not yet! I had a good fiddle around on the project in question and the little one just about fits in (sideways and very shallow). Perhaps I got my measurements wrong, or perhaps the 1 failing of the tricams is that they are a lot wider than they are tall, so the listed sizing range is useless for small, circular pockets! Amazing piece of kit though, It'll be a good few months till I get back to england though, so if you need them for anything, give me a shout and I'll get my mother to send them back to you. Thanks again
In reply to Franco Cookson:
You'd know that if you climbed at Millstone
> (In reply to TobyA)
> so the listed sizing range is useless for small, circular pockets! Amazing piece of kit though,
> so the listed sizing range is useless for small, circular pockets! Amazing piece of kit though,
You'd know that if you climbed at Millstone
In reply to JR:
The tricams I have work fine at millstone, because the ratio of height to width increases with size and the holes at millstone are really big. The Danby holes are tiny ring finger sized though, where tricams end up being too wide.
The tricams I have work fine at millstone, because the ratio of height to width increases with size and the holes at millstone are really big. The Danby holes are tiny ring finger sized though, where tricams end up being too wide.
In reply to JR: The holes or the tricams? If I file the holes, the moors gods will no doubt kill me and if I file the tricams, Toby almost certainly will kill me.
In reply to Franco Cookson:
Have you got the little tricam size 0.125? When I first saw one, I thought "Aww, it's so cute".
Have you got the little tricam size 0.125? When I first saw one, I thought "Aww, it's so cute".
In reply to JR:
I doubt you could take much off a tiny tricam before you'd weaken it beyond the point of being useful. The bit that usually gets in the way width wise it the bit that the splitpin is pushed through and I suspect you'd wreck it pretty quickly.
Franco- If you want some narrow but possibly rubbish gear for a pocket maybe filing a 3/4 size WC micronutto take off the bottom corners and then poking it in wire first? Don't blame me if you can't hang your coat on it though
I doubt you could take much off a tiny tricam before you'd weaken it beyond the point of being useful. The bit that usually gets in the way width wise it the bit that the splitpin is pushed through and I suspect you'd wreck it pretty quickly.
Franco- If you want some narrow but possibly rubbish gear for a pocket maybe filing a 3/4 size WC micronutto take off the bottom corners and then poking it in wire first? Don't blame me if you can't hang your coat on it though
In reply to Coel Hellier: I think I do. I have the smallest camp one I think you can get. It's perfectly short enough, it's just too wide to fit in the hole at the sides.
In reply to Reach>Talent:
It's the two top corners of the flat camming edge that really didn't seem to want to go in, but like I say, it did fit in a little bit. The best hing I managed to get in was a cammed fifi hook, but I don't think it's worth the effort of hanging around on monos on a 30 deg. overhang to place it.
It's the two top corners of the flat camming edge that really didn't seem to want to go in, but like I say, it did fit in a little bit. The best hing I managed to get in was a cammed fifi hook, but I don't think it's worth the effort of hanging around on monos on a 30 deg. overhang to place it.
In reply to Sam Maguire:
I'd like to match Franco's offer - I too will accept the challenge of a hard headpoint, name it and i'll do it....but I won't be in the country for the best part of a year, obviously i'll have to work for a while to afford the train ticket and time off to project it, i've also got a STACK of washing up that needs doing...the missus is also nagging me about finishing some flooring in the spare bedroom.....but as soon as that's out of the way in ooh say 3/4 years i'll be ready to crush it. I'm practising my victory dance already.
I'd like to match Franco's offer - I too will accept the challenge of a hard headpoint, name it and i'll do it....but I won't be in the country for the best part of a year, obviously i'll have to work for a while to afford the train ticket and time off to project it, i've also got a STACK of washing up that needs doing...the missus is also nagging me about finishing some flooring in the spare bedroom.....but as soon as that's out of the way in ooh say 3/4 years i'll be ready to crush it. I'm practising my victory dance already.
In reply to Kemics:
This route is going to have a long new name, when all the names of these jokers are added to it.
This route is going to have a long new name, when all the names of these jokers are added to it.
In reply to Franco Cookson:
A fifi? Wouldn't a small beak or a narrow skyhook be stronger, maybe a cam-hook if the pocket is the correct shape but all of them are probably garbage
A fifi? Wouldn't a small beak or a narrow skyhook be stronger, maybe a cam-hook if the pocket is the correct shape but all of them are probably garbage
In reply to Franco Cookson:
helpfully the initials of my name are HVS, so you'll be able to kill two birds with one stone
helpfully the initials of my name are HVS, so you'll be able to kill two birds with one stone
In reply to Reach>Talent:
Ultimately they'll all (at best) just snap themselves out of the pocket and you'd still be 8 metres from a bad landing if they slowed you down at all.
Ultimately they'll all (at best) just snap themselves out of the pocket and you'd still be 8 metres from a bad landing if they slowed you down at all.
In reply to Kemics:
That did make me laugh. This is one of the loopiest threads I've ever read.
Carry on...
> (In reply to Franco Cookson)
>
> helpfully the initials of my name are HVS, so you'll be able to kill two birds with one stone
>
> helpfully the initials of my name are HVS, so you'll be able to kill two birds with one stone
That did make me laugh. This is one of the loopiest threads I've ever read.
Carry on...
In reply to Franco Cookson:
If tying a skyhook down is fair game, what is to stop you propping one in place with an 8m scaffold pole?
If tying a skyhook down is fair game, what is to stop you propping one in place with an 8m scaffold pole?
In reply to Reach>Talent:
The widest point of a tricam (on mine anyway) is in the middle, not at the split pin. That said, a weaker tricam is better than nothing (or a micro nut you can't hang a coat off)
The widest point of a tricam (on mine anyway) is in the middle, not at the split pin. That said, a weaker tricam is better than nothing (or a micro nut you can't hang a coat off)
In reply to Reach>Talent:
And if the pocket is quite deep nothing wrong with using some 8mm steel bar pushed into the hole. Thread the end, put a bolt on it, push it into the hole then tie it off. Might as well bolt it hey Franco?
And if the pocket is quite deep nothing wrong with using some 8mm steel bar pushed into the hole. Thread the end, put a bolt on it, push it into the hole then tie it off. Might as well bolt it hey Franco?
In reply to JR:
Sorry, didn't explain myself clearly:
Hold the tri-cam as if you'd placed it to cam in a pocket, the distances that are critical to where it cams are the point to pivot distance and the width of the pivot as these 3 points will be your 3 points of contact. To fit the tricam into a small cylindrical pocket you'd want to take material off the curved back, particularly at the ends near the pivot.
Sorry, didn't explain myself clearly:
Hold the tri-cam as if you'd placed it to cam in a pocket, the distances that are critical to where it cams are the point to pivot distance and the width of the pivot as these 3 points will be your 3 points of contact. To fit the tricam into a small cylindrical pocket you'd want to take material off the curved back, particularly at the ends near the pivot.
In reply to Reach>Talent:
NO! You want to take metal off the SIDES. it fits in fine height-ways.
JR: The problem is that it's overhanging, so anything placed in the holes would pull out if it's not camming. You could place an expansion bolt in one of the holes probably, but then you might as well just go sport climbing, or somewhere with no soul like the peak/lakes.
NO! You want to take metal off the SIDES. it fits in fine height-ways.
JR: The problem is that it's overhanging, so anything placed in the holes would pull out if it's not camming. You could place an expansion bolt in one of the holes probably, but then you might as well just go sport climbing, or somewhere with no soul like the peak/lakes.
In reply to Franco Cookson:
How's an expansion bolt who's nut fits those Petzl nut keys with the hex spanner on them (so you can remove it) in a hole that's already there any different from a cam?
How's an expansion bolt who's nut fits those Petzl nut keys with the hex spanner on them (so you can remove it) in a hole that's already there any different from a cam?
In reply to Franco Cookson:
http://www.mudgrubs.com/images/camp-tri-cam-size-1.5-large.jpg?1203455720
I was talking about the sides and lower edge, if the tricam is roughly the right size for the pocket then taking a bit off the lower edge may give you a bit more wiggle room without affecting the camming action.
http://www.mudgrubs.com/images/camp-tri-cam-size-1.5-large.jpg?1203455720
I was talking about the sides and lower edge, if the tricam is roughly the right size for the pocket then taking a bit off the lower edge may give you a bit more wiggle room without affecting the camming action.
In reply to Reach>Talent:
O, OK. That's kind of right, but the bit that catches is the end of the pivot its self and that bit of metal that surrounds it. Filling this down *could* work, but it also has the potential to just weaken the whole thing so much that it explodes.
O, OK. That's kind of right, but the bit that catches is the end of the pivot its self and that bit of metal that surrounds it. Filling this down *could* work, but it also has the potential to just weaken the whole thing so much that it explodes.
In reply to Franco Cookson:
IF you want the most secure solution what about stacking ballnuts or brazing a carefully sized lump onto a single ballnut?
IF you want the most secure solution what about stacking ballnuts or brazing a carefully sized lump onto a single ballnut?
In reply to Franco Cookson:
Better be careful then. I'll raise my challenge to Widdop Wall, at least you'll get to re-use it... if it hasn't exploded
> (In reply to mkean)
>
Filling this down *could* work, but it also has the potential to just weaken the whole thing so much that it explodes.>
Better be careful then. I'll raise my challenge to Widdop Wall, at least you'll get to re-use it... if it hasn't exploded
In reply to Franco Cookson:
Good man. I enjoy armchair punditry at the worst of times. Will you video your onsight attempt please.
Thanks
Chris
> (In reply to Kemics)
>
> ...Looked at least H6 to me.
>
> ...Looked at least H6 to me.
Good man. I enjoy armchair punditry at the worst of times. Will you video your onsight attempt please.
Thanks
Chris
In reply to Reach>Talent:
Sound like good ideas, but I'm crap at doing things like that, so will just wait till I can solo it.
> (In reply to Franco Cookson)
> IF you want the most secure solution what about stacking ballnuts or brazing a carefully sized lump onto a single ballnut?
> IF you want the most secure solution what about stacking ballnuts or brazing a carefully sized lump onto a single ballnut?
Sound like good ideas, but I'm crap at doing things like that, so will just wait till I can solo it.
1
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