UKC

Pen Llyn (Lleyn) New Guidebook

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 mike lawrence? 09 Jun 2024

The new CC guidebook is out and is fabulous. Really inspirational for any trad climber heading to North Wales. Good for bad weather but also any time of the year. Together with last years CC Moelwynion guidebook it will hopefully popularise some of the more neglected areas of Wales.

1
 George_Surf 09 Jun 2024
In reply to mike lawrence?:

Is it only a year since the Moelwynion guide came out? I thought it was 2 or 3, we’ve done so much exploring up there because of that new book! Loads of inspiration! By the looks of things the lleyn guide will be exactly the same, and although bleanau isn’t as bad as people make out, the weather on the lleyn is even better than Tremadog! I’ve already seen some wild looking routes and with the amount of volcanic / granite / dolerite crags dotted about there will surely be some memorable and unusual climbing to hunt out. The funny thing is it looks like Pat and Tim (and a few others) have gone round checking and cleaning virtually every single route, if such a ridiculous idea is even possible! Total machines (titanium Tim is half machine 🦿).

 George_Surf 09 Jun 2024
In reply to mike lawrence?:

Anyone got anything on the radar or any recommendations beside the obvious? Gwylwyr Quarry looks wild and has what looks like a Pat Littlejohn mega adventure hard e6…

 Andy Reeve 09 Jun 2024
In reply to George_Surf:

Hi George,

I've benefited from the beta you wrote in your logbook a few times now - thank you - so much so that's its prompted me to make mine public in case it helps anyone else.

So in return, I would like to suggest The Apprentice (E6 6b). Its a fair few years since I did it, so take my memory with a pinch of salt(!), but I remember decent rock (for the Llyn), small cams, and sustained good moves. It's in the new guide at E7, but I'm led to believe that that's more because Pat was sure he would have done it if it was E6!

In reply to George_Surf:

Well for anyone new to the Pen LLyn (Is Lleyn the wrong name?) then there are some really amenable crags like Pen Y Cil, Carreg Lefain or the Ty'n Tywyn quarries (which have a couple of fantastic looking E4s) all of which have lots of mid grade climbs. I think Craig Doris is unfairly maligned and should be much more popular but i do seem in a minority of my climbing partners there. Basically if you haven't been to the area then whatever the grade get the guide and go!

 Alex Riley 10 Jun 2024
In reply to mike lawrence?:

Trwyn yr Wylfa Area is nice and friendly too.

Haven't got the guide to hand but there is a *** E6 (bridge over troubled water?) that sounds good.

The apprentice mentioned above looks good too, I've got a bit more time once I get back from holiday, let's get out

 Tom Valentine 10 Jun 2024
In reply to mike lawrence?:

I think LLeyn might be more correct  ( though unfashionable) than the use of LLyn without the circumflex above the letter y

1
 Tom Valentine 10 Jun 2024
In reply to Tom Valentine:

Lleyn

1
 Myfyr Tomos 10 Jun 2024
In reply to Tom Valentine:

This. Pen Llŷn.

The circumflex (tô bach or acen grom) is all important, otherwise it becomes Pen Llyn (End of the Lake) and that's near Llanberis.😊

ps,  press alt gr and 6.

Post edited at 15:55
 Tom Valentine 10 Jun 2024
In reply to Myfyr Tomos:

 Diolch. 

But I still can't get my keyboard to do it

In reply to Myfyr Tomos:

Great thanks for that, have now installed a Welsh keyboard on my phone!

 Myfyr Tomos 10 Jun 2024
In reply to Tom Valentine:

I'm on Windows 11 and simultaneous press of alt gr, 6 and y seems to work... ŷŷ 😉

 Tom Valentine 10 Jun 2024
In reply to Myfyr Tomos:

My keyboard is more than suspect anyway . I have to press the @ key to get " and vice versa.........

 George_Surf 11 Jun 2024
In reply to Andy Reeve:

Thanks I rekon I must take a bit of flak for making my personal diary public but I do hope it at least gives the odd pesone some inspiration to get on or seek out (or consider avoiding!) certain routes! might feel like Pokémon but I’m glad I’ve got a ukc log, I can read any of them and immediately be transported back to that day! Thanks for the recommendation 

1
 Tyler 12 Jun 2024
In reply to George_Surf:

All hail to anyone who makes their logbooks public, especially if you add comments. I’ve found myself reading your comments a lot lately as I’m exploring the Moelwynion 

In reply to George_Surf:

On the very rare occasion i do a climb in North Wales that you and/or Rachel haven't done I feel a real sense of triumph!


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