UKC Forums - pitons on trad climbs

pitons on trad climbs

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Tony T 17 Oct 2003

Hi
I just got access to hundreds of pitons. I am a fairly competent trad climber and I was wondering when is a situation that it would be better to bring pitons instead of using a standard rack of regular trad gear. Also what are the advantages of using pitons as suppossed to stoppers, cams, hexes, etc.?

OP chris tan 17 Oct 2003

In reply to Tony T:

What sort are they? Any surplus for sale? There's a line on a small crag called Stanage that might take a peg or two.

Cheers, chris

paul 17 Oct 2003

In reply to Tony T: I can only think of a handful of routes that rely purely on leader placed pegs. They are usually very very scary. There are some scary ones that need pegs, but you'd be crazy not to take clean gear too (a leader placed peg when free climbing is no mean feat). Occaisionally there are non scary but adventurous routes that need pegs, they are usually in remote areas.

If you are not just winding up the more parochial brits, where are you getting all these pegs from, and can I get some?

jason s 18 Oct 2003

In reply to Tony T: I saw this troll on the US climbing.com? today.

Dave Stelmach 18 Oct 2003

In reply to Tony T: Bang them in wherever you can, it'd save me carrying all those friends and rocks and hexcentrics, it could also severely hit the gear dealers.

Nestor 19 Oct 2003

In reply to Tony T: I've got some spare pitons if anyone wants them! Three broken arrows, two short, one long, four knifeblades and a kingpin. Two of the lost arrows are brand new and never been near a rock. The rest are used but in excellent condition. Anyone interested? Best offer gets them. Remember to include p&p unless you want to pick them up (NW England).

Dave Musgrove 19 Oct 2003

In reply to Nestor:

It would be a great gesture if you used them to replace some of the old and rotting ones on certain Yorkshire Limestone or Lake District crags. New pegs cost more than bolts these days. A few classic trad routes that have traditionally required just one or two pegs for proection (or aid - i.e. Carnage) would benefit from replacement.

Dave

Nestor 19 Oct 2003

In reply to Dave Musgrove: Tell me where, and are you coming with me?

Jamie B 19 Oct 2003

In reply to Dave Musgrove:

> A few classic trad routes that have traditionally required just one or two pegs for proection (or aid - i.e. Carnage) would benefit from replacement.

Or, arguably, elimination.

JAMIE B>