UKC

I know it is cheating asking for info before attempting a climb, and not in the spirit of things, but Hoy is a long way from, well, anywhere I normally would be. So... apparently the crux move is reaching out over the small roof just after the traverse on the second pitch. It looks very hairy in the Whillians photo I have of it. Can anyone who has done the route recommend protection for that move? Can you reach up and put a #8 Cam in it for example?

In reply to Tom Povey:

The protection is good as I'm a coward and it was my first climb of the season 4 years ago between the rain storms...the fulmers are a pest though so wear old gear!

There used to be an old wooden wedge in the crack that you could thread a sling round backed up with large friend later when they were invented and nuts below... I think...(I was last there 4 years ago so my memories a bit vague!)....not sure if the ancient wooden wedge still there as local climbers of the Orkney Mountaineering Club cleaned up some of the old tat....some of which was left over from the BBC's first remote outdoor broadcast in the 1960's real history!
It was literly a major miltary operation to do the filming in the sixties with Bonnington, Patey etc...I remember being glued to the tele and then borrowing my mums washing line to climb the midgies line in Glasgow's Mount Partick Tenement....

When last there 4 years ago we filmed the whole climb with a small mini DV camera clipped to my harness, which if you wish I can send you some copy on DVD...
Amazing the advances in technology...even the mini DV camera seems big now compared to my new digital still and video camera...still cant beat a good old wooden wedge sawn from a table leg though...dad wasn't pleased!!

You'll find further info on the link below
http://www.orkney-seastacks.co.uk/om-org-route.htm

Cheers Ron

In reply to Tom Povey: Take a small child for the crux!

In reply to Ron Walker: Hi Ron, I'd certanily be interested in that DVD, email me?

In reply to Ron Walker:

Thanks very much for the info -- would love to see the DVD.. would be very interesting and useful. Would you mail me so I can get properly in touch?

In reply to Smitz:

If you send me a recordable DVD, SAE and postage I'll try
and burn the video on it with my new DVD burner!!

Cheers Ron

In reply to Tom Povey:

You have mail

I/ we Climbed the old man in the summer after the 'clean up' by Orkney Mountaineering Club. The crux is fairly well protected by old wedges/ tat but a friend 5 ish would be handy. We were a little disappointed about the state of some of the re equipping, while I appreciate the fantastic effort made by the Orkney Mountaineering club, some of belays were poorly equalised and using very poor rusty pegs. Obviously I wasn't expecting double bolt belays but it could have been a little better. I would love to go back with a saw and remove the old rotten wooden wedges on the crux pitch which would add to the adventure feel of the route. Overall though one of the most memorable routes i've ever done in one of the most outstanding settings ever. Don't forget a visit to the local pub, great beer!!

Enjoy
Gareth Hobson

In reply to Ron Walker:

Will have to start charging for video burns at £10 a piece if I get anymore enquiries!!

Guided ascents of Old Man of Hoy and Old Man Store with your own video can be arranged for May/June....great fun!

See Talisman Activities website....

Cheers Ron