UKC

Hey all,

Off to Glencoe this weekend. Its been pretty sopping this week, but is dry on Friday and most of Saturday. Anyone got any reccomendations for VS-E2 routes that dry nice and quickly? Looking at the guidebook lots seems to be slow to dry...

Cheers!
From Oscar Dodd

East facing crags will likely be better. Rannoch Wall, Northeast Face, North Buttress on the Buachaille and the higher more exposed crags (Terrace Face, Lower NE Nose) of the East Face of Aonach Dubh where the rough texture of the rock will help if there is any moisture. A lot of the Weeping Wall and Lower Walls routes can be slow to dry but if you are there anyway have a look as there are plenty of brilliant routes at your level. I've done most of the routes there at those grades albeit 30+ years ago, I wouldn't know where to start recommending individual routes, just go and do what looks good. 

The East Face of Gearr Aonach might be worth looking at too though I've not been up there enough in summer to comment.

Ask around about E Buttress on the West face of Aonach Dubh, it's exposed so might dry quickly.

Rannoch Wall and the adjacent East face of Crowberry Ridge are very quick drying. Grooved Arete with Right Finish & Engineers Crack both superb, with convenient abseil from block.

South Face of Central Buttress has very sunny aspect and immaculate rock. Two abseils down Pegleg.

For single pitch stuff, Great Gully Upper Buttress has one of the best VS pitches around - May Crack. Yamay is a great E2 here also. 

Echoing the recommendations above, we climbed on the East Face of Aonach Dubh and Am Buchaille’s Great Gully Buttress after similar wet weather earlier in the year. https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2023/05/26/glorious-glencoe/

and Gearr Aonach is another good option https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2022/06/06/gearr-aonach/

Cheers, Dom 

It's not a particularly amazing forecast. I'd head up to Rannoch Wall and drop your grades a bit. You've then got all of Rannoch Wall, crowberry ridge area (engineers crack etc) and North Buttress(Crows Nest Crack etc..)Your fallback is always curved ridge which is doable in most conditions.

If it looks dry heading up you can always break off left (faint path) and do North Face Route into Hiccup and then traverse over to Rannoch Wall.

ps, Gary suggested May Crack which is one of the best pitches of vs I've ever done (even better combined with June crack)

Thanks for suggestions all, in the end we did June Crack (which was quite wet in places but very good) into Yamay which was really bloody brilliant.