UKC

Sharma has once again proven his greatness by despatching Dreamtime, the worlds first font 8c! Amazing.

In reply to Chris Doyle:

cos hes grown his hair again, he gets stronger as it grows in lenght!

In reply to Adam Lincoln:
Aye strength is in the hair for sure.

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

nope. theory doesn't hold. I grew a "beard of power" a la sharma for the Birmingham comp. Climbed like a housewife in marigolds

I reckon it's cos he's really, really strong, and climbs every day.

Isn't it funny, how every now and again someone says that climbing has become too specialised to be good at many aspects of the sport. Now Dave Graham and Chris Sharma are proving that wrong comprehensively. (and don't pull the usual RT trick, and ask what they've done in the alps, or I'll wave Huber in your face.)

In reply to midgets of the world unite:
Yep, both done 9a/9a+ French, both done Font 8c and both onsighted 8b/8b+ not bad!

In reply to midgets of the world unite:

but what's he ever done on grit?

In reply to JonC:

Well he couldnt do Brad Pit, but it was raining!

Mr Graham is UK bound this winter so will probably tidy the place up

In reply to Chris Doyle:

Is that his own route then? I know there is no direct comparason, but would this qualfy for English 7c/8a?

PS. Sorry for my ignorance, I will do fifty one armers as a penance.

In reply to Anonymous: I'd say its not yet specialised enough. Dreamtime font 8c and about 15 moves long, surely font 8a and an 8b (ish) on top of each other. Gaskins just done a font 8c which is a 8a+ sit start into an 8b. Kaizen is getting nearer the mark, font 8b+ but only 4 moves. 8c will be truely defined when its one/two moves....

ummm

In reply to Paul R: Yes, please more specialization. I can't wait for the day when there are problems with NO moves: just dangle foot-free from the worst holds possible for one second or more.

In reply to Mark:



don't even joke. I had the wierdest climbing day of my life following johnny round the plantation as we tried to find the worst holds we could just hang from.

The day ended with johnny trying to deadhang from a perfect right-angle of grit...."if I can just, like. throw my hips in. y'know. whilst I'm falling. Bollocks. This is great!. this is the future of climbing!....."

In reply to Chris Doyle:
This is great! I just hung from a very bad slope for 5 secs. We have to form a union. "The stoned hangaround club"?

In reply to midgets of the world unite:
Of course the problem 'joker' used to be called 'hampers hang' before it was done, the aim being just to hang on the starting holds.
Well done in Bristol Stu, it's good to see you hitting some form again.

In reply to midgets of the world unite: This is tooooo funny. You've got me in stitches at work.

If you buy an Entre Prises finger board, they include a leaflet with a bunch of figures from the Petit brothers' best efforts at various hangs/moves on the board. If the figures are true, it is just f*cking amazing what top level climbers can manage, one handed, etc, hanging from dime edges, etc.

8c doesn't sound do tough if you can imagine having that kind of strength. It's getting that sort of strength that I find confusing.

In reply to Dom Orsler:
Yeh how the **** does anyone develop that kind of strength, particularly the tendon strength required for the muscles to be this strong!.....

In reply to Will:
System Board Training.

Ive been doing it for 2 weeks now and feel strong as an ox!

In reply to Adam Lincoln:
Feeling strong and being strong are sometimes very different things!

In reply to Adam Lincoln: Adam, give us a quick summary of your system training and how the board is made up would you...pleeese.
I am thinking og building one in my flat.

In reply to Nj: http://www.planetfear.com/climbing/training/neilgresham/ng_system.htm
http://www.trainingforclimbing.com/html/hit.shtml

explanation of why and how here
http://www.trainingforclimbing.com/html/training/strength.shtml

In reply to Will:

Most of them are both with it. John Dunne didn't know what a one arm pullup was until he saw someone doing it, had a go and voila! a 1 arm pullup, apparently. Most of the top athletes are genetically gifted, they are naturally strong, respond well to training and have good recovery rates. They start out from a much higher level than the rest of us and the vast majority of people would never catch up.

In reply to midgets of the world unite:

They did Huber in the Alps? That's outrageous! was it a gay threesome?