UKC

out of curiosity i was wondering what is the best sequence for this problem theirs the way jerry does it but are their any other ways of doing the problem.As i was looking thorufgh some old posts and midget of the world mentined theirs the way jerrys does it and the way everyone else does it.
Adam you mentioned ryan did it what sequence did he use,
any help would be apprecited
thanks richard

In reply to R Simpson: i thought most people campused it now

mark, hi mark i take it your the one whos friend with liam, while your on here can i pick your brains for some local knowledge of the roaches, do you no how many people have done mushin and who they are,

thanks richard

In reply to R Simpson: malc smith flashed and mark croxall has done it.did you do not long ago?

In reply to mark s:

Ye just over a week ago do you no what the consensus grade is.
liam tells me yove been getting alot of stuff doe round staffs lately nice one whats your nxt project

In reply to R Simpson:
Ru (Davies) has done Mushin I think, early this year, or was it last, I forget.

In reply to R Simpson: good effort.about 7c+ i think.ramshaw i think next,clip clop and tom briggs route.then bamford now slab season is about here.what have you been up to?did you top mushin out or finish on the round break like malc did?

In reply to mark s:

No way, i didnt top out i dropped of, ive mainly been bouldering trying to get some classics done. i have a few grit routes in mind for this year, one chromosone have you tried that, painted rumour, parthian shot and captain invincible aswell as some other classics, do you have a cam 6 for clipoty clop, im tryin to persuade liam to try and flash it i think he will piss it, but he will only try if he gets a cam, i also want to do art noveua that looks awesome, but my main project is that traverse on the lower tier inertia reel im phyched for that. I think you piss alot of the slab routes at bamford i heard your pretty handy on slabs, anyway i look forward to seeing you around.

take care richard

In reply to R Simpson: my mate has one,liam will romp up it.i did benign lives on sat thats a awesome slab.painted rumour is good the head wall is the tricky bit

In reply to mark s:

good effort on benign lives on sight or headpoint, it looks pretty thin that one, whats the gear like in the roof b4 the hole on painted rumour and how good is that sling in the hole thinking of trying on sight,

In reply to R Simpson:
Hi Richard,
Sounds like your crankin at the moment, good on yer. Are you thinking of going back to Spain/France sport climbing next year? Im going for 2/3 months from the beginning of March get in touch if you want a lift out.

Cheers Steve..

In reply to mark s:

Nice one MArk, top route isnt it! Did it last year... Quite tricky, i nearly fell off! I trust you being an ethical man didnt use flake to right, some people do this and claim the route! Got it on video and you here me moan as iam about to jump off! Though that was it

In reply to Steve:

Hi steve it took me a while to remember which steve it was as i didnt think that you used these forums hows it goin, i heard you were cranking hard aswell doing them new routes at kilnsley and raven tor etc and repeating trigger cut, good effort man you must be going really well, what do you have in mind for the winter mainly grit bouldering i expect, do you still live up in yorkshire as i have the week off work next week and am planning on heading up that way fancy meeting up. i was planning on a trip to south of france around easter next year so i would definetly be keen to get some climbinng done with you, i think i have your phone number somewhere but am not sure il give you a call sometime, if i cant find it il send you an email. Anyway i look forward to seeing you soon hows dalvinder,

anyway take care richard.

In reply to R Simpson:
Hi Richard,
Good job on Mushin. I had a look at it on Saturday and it looked well hard, the last moves look nails. Where abouts is the crux?
Cheers

James

In reply to R Simpson:

I have been trying it going up of the crimps right handed, it seems to work better for me than trying it jerrys way, anyone done the ace yet, thats next on my list

In reply to Adam Lincoln: no i didn't use the flake.did it before it got warmish on sat morning.took some pics,first time ive botherd for ages.the light was really good hope they come out.

In reply to James Pearson: getting up to the lip pocket is easy,the rest is is very hard.

In reply to mark s:
Cheers for that info. Good going on Benign Lives. It is on my to do list for this winter. What is it like?
Cheers

James

In reply to James Pearson: not 2 bad,the top move for the break is a bit thin.

In reply to James Pearson:

Ye like mark said geting to the lip is easyish if your are quite tall if your noty its hard 6bish as i had to through for the lip hold then a couiple of hard moves leading to a very hard last move it also wrecks the toe on your boots as you have to pull very hard on a toe hook in the undercuts, its an awesome problem one of the best ive done, good luck trying it anyway.

freeclimb do yuo have your feet on of off,

In reply to R Simpson: hi rich,justin said paul higginson was trying it from the pocket straight to the break.
c u up the roaches soon,gotta go boulder dog needs walking.

In reply to mark s and richard:
Thanks again guys. Probably be a while before I try either. Its tough without a car.
Cheers

James

In reply to R Simpson:

Adam i trust you being an ethical man, you didn't have a spotter tied into the ledge at a solid e4!