UKC

Hi All,

First of all, I'm new both here and to the sport so hello!

I started climbing about three months ago and am still very focussed on developing footwork and technique before tackling climbs that are too tough. I seem to be more drawn to vertical climbs with smaller holds than overhangs with jugs, but that may just be my lack of fitness. I'm also the sort of person that likes to really understand andvice when it's given rather than just act on it. It helps me to remember it and better apply it in the future.

Anyway... Somebody mentioned to me in the pub yesterday, that a way of getting a firmer grip on a small hold is to curl the thumb around the back of the fingers. He's a seasoned climber, and I don't doubt his information for a second, but I was wondering if anyone knew exactly why this helps?

Sorry if this sounds like a daft question.

In reply to Beginner: think about it. hook your fingers around the table edge and pull down. now try it with the thumb on top. thumb is strong and holds fingers in place. not rocket science!

In reply to Beginner:
The thumb is your strongest finger, if you put it over the top of the others, you're adding its strength to the others.
(Especially the first finger, which is in the knuckle of the thumb, so the forces of leverage also help)
Also, if you bring your thumb over your other fingers, your fingers get a better purchase.

In reply to Beginner:
I'm glad you asked that.... using the thumb as a stregthener hadn't even occured to me!

will try it next time i'm near a rock (or more likely at the moment, plastic)

Ali x

Thanks all, I guess it is fairly obvious now I think about it!

I'd been thinking allong the lines of why it would make the grip on the rock better as opposed to why it would make the grip inherently stronger (which I assume therefore leads to a better purchase on the hold)... D'oh!

In reply to Beginner: you obviously not been trying it on tiny enough crimps! try it on some nice slate and see what a difference it makes

In reply to ceri:

Another little trick with small crimps is to brace/press your whole forearm close to the rock, to support your hand and minimise leverage on your fingers.

In reply to Beginner:
be careful though as it puts more presuure on your fingers...

In reply to Beginner:

Just don't use the other thumb!

Surely though it depends on the type of hold - angle/friction etc - pushing with your thumb might put different directional pressure on the finger/s which could be undesirable. Never used it meself but there you go...

In reply to Wilbur:
I've heard this as well. I think the throry is that because you get more strength with the thumb over your fingers you can put more weight on them, and can consequently also strain them more if it goes wrong.

In reply to John Lambert: yes, have had sore finger tendons after popping off nasty crimps in this way before(pex and awesome) i dont know whether the thumb contributed to pain or not though!

In reply to Beginner:


Not convinced that having the thumb over your fingers helps at all to be honest, could just be a mental confidence thing. may also depend on your finger/thumb size ratio though, if your fingers are long, mine are, then locking a thumb over the top forces an odd crimp grip.

On small crimps, my thumb ends up pressing against the side of my finger but not over, possibly helping things stay in place.

In reply to siho:



Some of you must have long, ape-like thumbs. Mine only goes over one finger, and that's at full crimp. I find that if the hold has a side to it, getting the thumb around that gives a stronger purchase. That's because the thumb is designed to oppose the fingers, not complement them.

Well, I'm going to the wall after work today so I'll give it a go and see how it feels. Having tried it on the desk, I'm guessing it also forces the heel of the hand into the rock below the crimp which may add to stability?

Cheers again for all the help.