UKC

weight difference when belaying

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 latam2012 14 Feb 2009
Hi,

I'm not an extremely experienced climber but I have been going regularly like maybe twice a week for a couple of months.

I'd like to start going with one of my friends back home but he is 6"3 and I'm only 5" so there's a weight difference of nearly 5 stone.

is this safe? and whats the best way to tie in to the sandbag?
 apulmatt 14 Feb 2009
In reply to sharene: You probably do want to tie into a sandbag, just clip in with a spare carabina.
 anansie 14 Feb 2009
In reply to sharene:

I used to have this problem as, i'm only 5'3 and weigh about 8 stone and the partner i was belaying was about 13 and a half stone but we practised with it and now i can belay him fine and don't have to be anchored down..just practise and being prepared to be lifted up a little every now and again

Hope it becomes easier for you soon
 Dave Ferguson 14 Feb 2009
In reply to sharene:
you could always eat loads of pies

works for me, although not for my climbing!
 JoshOvki 14 Feb 2009
In reply to sharene:

It should be fine with practice. I've belayed someone twice my weight, a 22st rugby player, and I weigh 11st. Keep one foot infront of the other to brace yourself and keep as close to the wall as possible.

You will be taken off the floor alot, if you start to swing put one foot out to stop you going face first into the wall while keeping the other down incase something changes and you end up decending. Other than that it's the usual don't take your hands off the dead rope etc.

Good Luck.
 escalator 14 Feb 2009
In reply to sharene:

The weight difference should not be a problem, there is usually enough friction as the rope passes through the karibiner(s) at the top of the wall, or the quickdraws. As the others have said already be prepared to be lifted once in a while, and don't let go. A good tip is when you start lowering do it very slowly, and don't jerk the rope, the sudden stop (or slowing motion) will again lift you off the ground. I've belayed some real lard arses and it has never been a problem!
 katie75 14 Feb 2009
In reply to sharene: my son who is 6 stone lighter belays me, and mainly without a sand bag, but he has to pay alot of attention, but has never had a problem.
jusy make sure you stand right next to the wall so you wont get pulled off your feet.
OP latam2012 17 Feb 2009
Hey thanks for ur replies, makes me happy that it will be ok as I don't really have anyone else to go with.
J1234 17 Feb 2009
In reply to sharene:
Weight yourself down, the slightest inattention/distraction and things could rapidly get out of hand. Ask the advice of the staff at the wall if indoor climbing.
 ceri's 17 Feb 2009
In reply to sharene: I belay my husband who is 6 or so stone heavier than me, we were shown that by putting two or three twists in the rope (i.e., walk around your climber two or three times once tied on/clipped in) more friction is introduced to the system between the climber and the belay device, hence the belayer isn't lifted off the ground. Use less twists for furrier ropes.

Obviously this only works when top-roping, plus the caveat of the climber can't usually reach the top hold with a tight rope due to the twists, and it doesn't do the ropes much good.
 cmgcmg 17 Feb 2009
In reply to sharene:

Get your partner to fall off a few times with varying lenghts of slack (a foot or two max). I once saw a chap who was belaying a lead and not concentrating take a massive face plant into a climbing wall. He managed to keep it together but hurt him self on the protruding holds. I've been lifted into the air by a lighter lead taking a long fall. You just have to be alert (as you should be when belaying ) and quickly get your feet up onto the wall. The weight difference becomes quite insignificant when there is some velocity involved.
 Bill Davidson 17 Feb 2009
In reply to sharene:
Use Ceri's suggestion when top roping, works great.
Anonymous 18 Feb 2009
In reply to sharene:

Being about 10 stone and 5'4, I have the same problem (but rarely).

As mentioned above, the frictional losses should even it out a bit... but you can cross the rope over itself once or twice to introduce a little more friction into the equation.

You can also use the sandbags.

There are sometimes bolts at the bottom of a climb (about a foot off the ground) which you can attach yourself to via a sling and krab.

Careful which belay device you choose - I had an ATC which was fine most of the time, but on one occasion when I was belaying someone much bigger than me, it was awfully difficult to hold him when he fell! I really had to hold the rope tight in order to avoid dropping him.
oggi 18 Feb 2009
In reply to sharene:
Make sure you use a suitable belay device (one that is more more "grab" than "slick")and don't be afraid to use the technique mentioned earlier of putting a twist or two in the ropes. It does not wear the rope as it is always a different part of the rope being "abused".

I have used and taught this for many years and never had a significant problem. Too many twists can make it dificult to take in and it can occasionally be slightly more difficult to top out. I thnk the advantages outweigh these.

Good luck, Oggi


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