UKC

I'm looking for some things to aim at on Southern Sandstone, having just discovered it.

What would you recommend?
I am keen on bouldering because I can do that alone but also keen on trying some f the top roping and soloing.
Grades wise: anything on the easy end of the spectrum is welcome, I',m no grade snob. Uper eand, i'd love to try to 6a and 6b tech moves. On trad I operate up to and including 5c normally in other environments. Sport up to f6c.
What would you recommend to me?

In reply to puppythedog:

At Harrisons, Niblick is a classic along with Unclimbed Wall, Scoop and (if you're feeling brave) Left Wall on Isolated Buttress.

In reply to puppythedog:

Crowbrough Corner at Harrison's is one of my favourite problems - a bit high to boulder though and is the isolated buttress accessible these days?

Otherwise the one to the left of Pig's Ear at Bowles (I forget its name) stands out, as does the banana for something a bit more bouldery.

In reply to Owain Young:



Hate

In reply to Trangia:


Never managed it but I did the lower 2/3, that alone is very good.

In reply to Owain Young:

Pigs Ear is very worth while and a bit more doable than Hate.

Plus 1 for Niblick - probably the best all round climb on sandstone which so many different moves and techniques packed into one climb.

Plus 1 for Banana too

Also recommend Birchden Wall

Unfortunately the lower grade climbs tend to lack the quality, and are often very worn, but Long Layback is good (polished start) and Bow Window is fun, as is Isolated Buttress Climb.

Most of the routes on Unclimbed Wall are good, and for something a bit easier Zig Zag and Hell Wall.

There are a number of nice routes on Hut Boulder at High Rocks, but be warned you will need to solo Crack Route 4c to set the rope up, and it's committing. At Stone Farm there are some good value routes on the West side of Inaccessible Boulder but you will need to be comfortable at leading and descending the easy SE Corner Crack at 4a to set the rope up.

Cat Wall is another Stone Farm classic.

Have fun!

In reply to CurlyStevo:


Ditto. I came very close to getting into the final crack 20 odd years ago when I was a spring chicken of 51, but now I'm the wrong side of 70, I have to accept ever climbing Hate has become a past dream

In reply to puppythedog:

Really anything at 4c and above with 2-3 stars in the guide book!

my favourites are:
Harrisons:
The Niblick (5b)
West Wall (5c)
Isolated Butress (4c)
Birchden Wall (5b)
Birchden Corner (5c)
Unclimbed Wall (5b)
Zig Zag Wall (5a)

Bowles
Burlap (5b)
Abracadabra (5a) (realistically most/all 5bs are easier)
Devaluation (5b)
Pigs Ear (5c)
Pigs Nose (5a)
Larchant (5a)
Hennessy Heights (5b)
I never got up Hate all the way, but the bit I did was great!

Stone Farm
Pinnacle Butress Arete Right Hand (6a) (really quite good worth a couple of stars)
Key Wall (5a / 5b)
Thin (5c) (worth 3 stars I think)
Leaning Crack (5a)

In reply to puppythedog:

At Harrisons:
Sossblitz (7a)
The Flakes (7a)
Hangover 3 (7a)

At Bowles:
Serenade Arete (6c+)
Burlap (6a+)
Sapper (5b)
Pig's Nose (5c)

In reply to RFWilkie:

+1 for The Flakes 6a

In reply to puppythedog:

Thanks for teh suggestions so far. I'm thinking of turning this into a ticklist if I can work out how.
Keep the suggestions coming

In reply to puppythedog:

theres a whole bunch of harder climbs (6a / 6b) that tend to dry quite quickly in the area of the flakes - they seem quite popular...

The Flakes (7a)

In reply to CurlyStevo:

I would caution, with all this talk of 'Hate' that it's among the hardest routes at Bowles to rig properly for a toprope if that's what you intend. There are 2 roofs at the top and a hard thin move below them To avoid the possibility of a moving rope cutting the rock if you come off low down you need to hang the belay below the roofs, which requires a long length of static rope. This then opens you to the possibility of a big fall if you fail higher up.
The only solution I've found is several krabs and re-clipping the rope as you go. Hard to describe but sort of a top/rope sport hybrid.

In reply to Removed User:

thank you, I think I understand what you mean.

In reply to puppythedog:

Yeah Niblick's properly good innit.

In reply to puppythedog:

Thank you all for your contributions.
I have what is shaping up to be a ticklist. In my head i am thinking a Southern Sandstone apprenticeship, but an apprenticeship for me as a reasonable, competent climber who can climb in the extremes in other environments.
That said I am keen for any grade so the next question is what is missing from the list?

Ticklist here:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1226



Bow Window none 4a ** 489 6m Harrisons Rocks
2 Isolated Buttress Climb none 4c *** 398 ? Harrisons Rocks
3 Long Layback none 5a *** 525 ? Harrisons Rocks
4 Zig-Zag Wall none 5a *** 419 ? Harrisons Rocks
5 Hell Wall none 5a ** 424 ? Harrisons Rocks
6 The Niblick none 5b *** 417 7m Harrisons Rocks
7 Unclimbed Wall none 5b *** 485 ? Harrisons Rocks
8 Birchden Wall none 5b *** 306 ? Harrisons Rocks
9 West Wall none 5c *** 140 ? Harrisons Rocks
10 Crowborough Corner none 5c ** 166 ? Harrisons Rocks
11 The Scoop none 5c * 137 7m Harrisons Rocks
12 Birchden Corner none 5c *** 221 ? Harrisons Rocks
13 Hangover II none 6a 15 ? Harrisons Rocks
14 The Flakes none 6a *** 107 ? Harrisons Rocks
15 Sossblitz none 6a *** 51 ? Harrisons Rocks
16 Sapper none 4c ** 274 ? Bowles Rocks
17 Abracadabra none 5a 96 ? Bowles Rocks
18 Pig's Nose none 5a *** 561 ? Bowles Rocks
19 Larchant none 5a * 279 ? Bowles Rocks
20 Burlap none 5b ** 207 ? Bowles Rocks
21 Devaluation none 5b ** 386 ? Bowles Rocks
22 Hennessy Heights none 5b * 231 ? Bowles Rocks
23 Pig's Ear none 5c *** 282 ? Bowles Rocks
24 Hate none 6a *** 161 ? Bowles Rocks
25 Banana none 6a ** 216 ? Bowles Rocks
26 Serenade Arete none 6a ** 69 ? Bowles Rocks
27 Key Wall none 5a * 118 ? Stone Farm
28 Pinnacle Buttress Arete none 5b * 67 ? Stone Farm
29 Cat Wall none 5c * 85 ? Stone Farm
30 Thin none 5c * 50 ? Stone Farm

In reply to puppythedog:

Love and any at the principal SS outcrop, of course.

That said, I'd sooner you batter the crap out of Harrisons than anywhere that I prefer to go.

In reply to Mike Highbury:

Batter the crap out of? What do you mean by that?

In reply to puppythedog:

really all the stared climbs in the guide are worthwhile You'll find your self running out pretty quick (of dry climbs in condition you've not climbed before). So I wouldn't worry about a mega list too much

In reply to puppythedog:

Oh and you better get a move on as typically most / all southern sandstone isn't climbable between start of october and end of march, bar freak years or very short spells on limited climbs.

In reply to puppythedog:
I'd drop Banana from that list. it was good many years ago but either some chipping/brushing or just years of failing to clean shoes properly have turned a crucial smear into a huge sandy bucket making the lower section farcically easy. The wear on the top out by contrast has made the last move absolutely desperate turning a good route into a one-move wonder.

In reply to puppythedog:

Eyelet (4b) at Harrisons is always worth a punt.

In reply to Removed User:

Thank you

In reply to Dell:

Added thank you.


Any more from anyone?

In reply to Mike Highbury:




I'm trying really hard to imagine how you might have meant that without it being offensive towards me and I am struggling.

In reply to puppythedog:

Can't believe nobody's mentioned Slimfinger Crack (5C) at Harrisons

In reply to puppythedog:

You've left High Rocks out of your list.......

......or don't you like paying £10 ?

In reply to Postmanpat:

only because I can never do it! Needs a good prolonged dry spell that one.

In reply to puppythedog:

Regarding the remark Mike made.

I'll say it another way, I guess you know all the basics, don't let the rope rub, don't climb damp rock, don't lower off etc

There is one other rule that I think is also only fair to the rock and the future generations - only climb climbs you think you will get up in a few goes, if you fail repeatedly on the same section, leave it for another day. As you'll find most the rock is quite easily abraded there and once the skin is through the rock varies between soft and a sandpit!

Stevo

In reply to CurlyStevo:

Yes I have done my research about how to be kind to the rock and I am respectful in all environments of the rock. Struck me as an offensive comment and I've still not been able to think of a different way to take it.

In reply to Trangia:

No one suggested any climbs at High Rocks if it's not in the list.

In reply to Postmanpat:

Added to the list, thank you

In reply to puppythedog:

i've always liked Yo Yo - Slab (6b)

In reply to kingborris:

Thanks King Bo, have added it to the Tick list.

In reply to puppythedog:

Yeah I think it probably was.

In reply to puppythedog:
There is lots of harder climbs at high rocks that are good, however it faces north and is in the main very slow drying. The bouldering is quite good though, some of it is on some of the least sandy rock about and some of that is quite fast drying too.

The price is pretty extortionate too and whilst it's comparable to a climbing wall in London, it feels wrong to me to pay to climb outdoors, I don't really agree with it.

Bowles at least is cheap and a charity, although I do think it sets a bit of an odd example to the kids to see people paying to climb. I'd rather they made their money from climbers another way (selling refreshments, climbing kit, courses for beginners to learn to climb outdoors etc).

In reply to puppythedog:


High Rocks

Simian Progress 5a
Roof Route 5a
Birthday Arete 5b
Swing Face 5b
Pussy Foot 5b
Pinch Grip 5c
Crack Route 4c
Celebration 5c
Advertisement Wall 5b (normal)
Advertisement Wall 5c (direct start)
Henry the Ninth 5b

Eridge Green Rocks

Siesta Wall 5b
Innominate Crack 5b
Big Fat Tart 5c
Equilibrian Wall 5b
Libra 5c
Hanging Crack 5c
6.0 am Route 4b
The Pillar 5c
Hadrians wall 5b
Remus 4c
Roman Nose 5a
Romulus 5b
Capstan wall 4a
Concorde 5b
Battlements Crack 5a
Portcullis 5c

In reply to Trangia:

I'm a bit surprised no one's mentioned the High Rocks' Coronation Crack, 5c. When it's dry, it's about the best climb at High Rocks below 6a, and one of the best on SS.

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:



Agreed, but I think the key lies in your first three words!

In reply to CurlyStevo:



However the access rules for bouldering seem now so restrictive and Byzantine as to be , in effect, a complete ban.

I would add to "I guess you know all the basics, don't let the rope rub, don't climb damp rock, don't lower off etc" - clean shoes thoroughly at all times (this really requires some carpet to sit/stand on in order to do so).

& to the OP I wouldn't get offended by the assumption that you're unable/unwilling to follow a simple set of guidelines for preserving our playground. Bitter experience has taught that hardly anyone is.

In reply to Removed User:
I have found many of the climbers that definitely should know better will still climb damp rock and broadcast reports of doing so and pictures on the internet!

Yeah having a bit of carpet or door mat to clean you shoes of pre climb is defo a good idea, makes the climbing easier too

In reply to CurlyStevo:

It definitely does !

In reply to puppythedog:




The best routes are either:
Dover - Calais to Font
M25 then M1 or M6 to The Peak/Yorkshire/Lakes/North Wales.

Andy F

In reply to CurlyStevo:



I am pleased to say that we stopped climbing on Southern Sandstone last night when the rain arrived.

I'd like to claim that we were thinking of the rock, but we were also starting to get wet!

In reply to andy farnell:

Thanks Andy, I'll remember that for when I have more than a day available.

In reply to Trangia:

Thank you, I will add those when I get time later.