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Working a steep route

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 tmawer 26 Jun 2020

Just looking for any tips around working overhanging routes where you tend to swing away from the rock when you come off . Got to be a better way than lowering off each time. 

Thanks. 

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In reply to tmawer:

Double ropes (or 'twin ropes' I think is now the jargon). Then you can just haul yourself in to the rock face/previous runner and clip into that for a rest. Then have another go. ?

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 1poundSOCKS 26 Jun 2020
In reply to tmawer:

I presume you're top roping? It can be easier to work them on lead.

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 john arran 26 Jun 2020
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

I'd be careful to avoid creating more confusion over 'double' and 'twin' than already exists; they're very different beasts!

In reply to the OP: If it's steep enough so that it's difficult to get back on again after a fall, you'll almost certainly be better working it on lead. If it seems a bit intimidating, then either it'll be good practice at accepting small falls or the route will have been unhelpfully/badly bolted.

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 tmawer 26 Jun 2020
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

Thanks. That makes sense. 

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In reply to tmawer:

As previous posters have said, it's normally easier to get back on after leading.

If you're top roping a sport rope, clip "your end" (the leaders end) of the rope into some of the bolts as you lower down from the anchors which will keep you from swinging as far out. 

Or "second yourself" after you've lowered off by pulling the rope through from the other end. Easier than the above method but you don't need to unclip all of the draws as you climb past.   

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