In reply to petellis:
A quote from a document on the website you link to (
http://www.nicros.com/pdf/Binder1.pdf )
"....
6.) don't forget to train the antagonistic muscles on the back of your forearms!
"The last rule will help prevent the common elbow tendonitis some climbers develop due to muscle imbalances in the forearms. Simple reverse-wrist curls are a powerful means toward prevention of such setbacks. Perform three, twenty-rep sets at the end of each workout. A ten or 15 pound dumbbell is all the resistance needed to make this exercise effective."
I actually use a Metolius Grip Saver ball to perform this exercise, and find it very effective. If I were doing it with weights, I wouldn't use such a heavy weight as 5Kg, and I wouldn't go to failure. But then I'm doing it for rehab rather than prevention.
In his book "Conditioning for Climbers", Eric Horst suggests two sets of 15-20 reps per arm with 2-3 mins rest between sets, using a 5- to 15- pound dumbbell. He says to go heavier if you can easily do 20 reps. "Well-conditioned individuals may need as much as a 25- to 30-pound dumbbell"
I'm only just beginning to learn about this stuff, and I have already found much disagreement and confusion over the benefits of different training/conditioning exercises.
Cheers
