UKC

/ Best early season venues Lakes

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ROBBIEB - on 01 Mar 2018

So its nearly spring, therefore nearly dragging weather, so where do people rate as the best early season venues across the whole of the Lakes, which benefit from sun (When its shining) ? Discuss 

Jon Stewart - on 01 Mar 2018
In reply to ROBBIEB:

Black Crag (Wrynose)

Had beautiful spring days there.

Castle Rock of Triermain South also dries out very fast, and isn't so exposed. 

petegunn on 01 Mar 2018
In reply to ROBBIEB:

Before the Beast from the East hit loads of people were already out cragging on the langdale crags

dunnyg - on 01 Mar 2018
In reply to ROBBIEB:

Shepherds was tshirt weather last weekend. Bit of a contrast to the summit of scafell like a few hours earlier. People seemed to have got stuff done at bowderstone crag the same day too.

Rog Wilko on 02 Mar 2018
In reply to ROBBIEB:

Wallabarrow and several other Duddon crags.

C Witter on 02 Mar 2018
In reply to ROBBIEB:

Pretty much any south-facing valley crag will come into condition quickly. So, Langdale or Wallowbarrow are great. I spent a lovely day at Wallowbarrow on the 13th of Feb last year, when the wind was howling from the north; belays were spent loafing in calm pools of sunlight, but when you topped out you suddenly saw the fells covered in snow and felt the bitter wind buffeting your ears and chilling your bones.

If it's dry for a sustained period, as it was a couple of weeks ago, then more places become doable. Eastern-facing means it'll get the morning light, to aid drying. Wind helps with drying, but can be cold!

Shepherds dries very quickly, and if you're going to go there at all, it's better to go very early in the season, when you'll only see a handful of teams, rather than people on every route. The good thing about Borrowdale (and Langdale) is that you can check out one crag and, if it's taking drainage or whatever, easily and quickly head to another - e.g. Lower Falcon, Shepherds, Black Crag and Quayfoot can all be checked out with minimal time spent walking in.

Black Crag and Long Scar are great unless there's a wind blowing, in which case they can become bitterly cold, depending on the wind direction. However, they have different aspects (W and S), so sometimes Long Scar is bitter (N or NW wind), but Black Crag is calm and sunny.

Silverdale's quite good for early season, too - Trowbarrow dries reasonably quickly and is sheltered from the wind, whilst Warton has small crags facing SE and SW, so you can make the most of the sun.

After a while, I get sick of going to the same valley crags, though, and take a punt on something higher up the hills!

 

ROBBIEB - on 05 Mar 2018

Thanks guys, I'm from the North West originally, but have an ageing memory which needs prompting from time to time. fingers crossed for good weather the 24/5 th of this Month when I aim to spend the weekend in the lakes  

 

ROBBIEB - on 05 Mar 2018
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Can you get back on Castle Rock now ? 

climbingpixie on 05 Mar 2018
In reply to ROBBIEB:

Most of Castle Rock is climbable, you just have to avoid the bit that's falling down.

Skyfall - on 05 Mar 2018
In reply to ROBBIEB:

A bit of a longer walk but relatively low altitude is eagle crag grisedale  Eagle Crag (Grisedale)

Kestrel wall, Sobrenada etc.  Mini adventures. 

Jon Stewart - on 06 Mar 2018
In reply to ROBBIEB:

> Can you get back on Castle Rock now ? 

There's never been a problem. It's a shame that one of the best crags in the lakes (North crag) has become neglected because people mistakenly believe it's going to fall on their head. Everything right of mayday cracks is as solid as it ever was. Which isn't completely solid, but plenty solid enough, and they're brilliant routes!

That said, north crag takes a while to dry out, but the south is very open and quick drying with nice routes up to e1. 

Jon Stewart - on 06 Mar 2018
In reply to Skyfall:

> A bit of a longer walk but relatively low altitude is eagle crag grisedale  Eagle Crag (Grisedale)

I've not been, and I imagine it's pretty neglected and dirty. Faces east. A better bet in summer rather than early season? 

I'd like to go this year, but I'll be waiting for a warm dry spell.

 

Simon Caldwell - on 06 Mar 2018
In reply to Jon Stewart:

The left hand side (where estrel Wall is) doesn't take much drainage and is a year-round option, I've seen people climbing there in January! Farther right (Doctors Grooves) is more vegetated and dirty even in the summer.

Jon Stewart - on 06 Mar 2018
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

Thanks - any idea about the upper tier where the starred E1s and E2s are?

Simon Caldwell - on 06 Mar 2018
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Sorry no, too hard for me! 

ROBBIEB - on 07 Mar 2018
In reply to climbingpixie:

Thats really useful thanks, i will bear that in mind, and not climb on the bit thats falling down !


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