/ Climbing without a fingernail
Wasn't sure where to put this but.....
I got a subungual hematoma and will very likely be loosing my nail. Haven't climbed for three weeks already from the injury and was wanting to ask if anyone has experience of/advice for climbing while the nail grows back? Seems a bit too specialist a question for healthcare professionals
I had this when I dropped a rock on my finger making a bouldering landing better. It felt like I had broken my finger for a few weeks, but after x-rays ruled that out I just kept climbing. It wasn't too bad until the nail became loose and everytime I chalked up the chalk packed under the nail forcing it off.
I doubt you will do any more damage, but it might be sore.
I can't comment on this exact point but I have done winter climbing and hillwalking without a big toenail and after a couple of days from the day of losing it it was not too uncomfortable despite my fears.
No experience from climbing, but regularly trained and competed in Judo with that problem, which puts similar stress on the fingers.
Tape the nail down tightly, securing the tape further up your finger, and ignore the pain.
>.... everytime I chalked up the chalk packed under the nail forcing it off.
Chalk! there's a simple answer
I crushed my big toenails in a fall once, they eventually came loose. I trimmed off what I could as bits came away, glued carbon fibers over what I couldn't until they were ready then when all the loose bits were gone I protected the nail bed and the new nail with tape and plasters while it was still tender.
If climbing hurts enough to not be fun after you've done what you can to protect the finger take the cue to do something else for a while. If it doesn't then I don't see a problem.
Mrs J recently lost a thumbnail after shutting it in the car door. After the initial pain, the subsequent draining of blood from behind the nail by a doctor with a needle pushed down behind the nail to relieve the pressure, and the discomfort before it finally dropped off, actually climbing with(out) it was no problem whatever.
Thanks Jon, They put a hole in my finger, but i think it came a week too late cause my nail bed (and nail) is ruined
I just taped down the loose nail until it fell off. I then used a plaster covered with finger tape to protect the exposed skin ,which was a little tender, but had no difficulties with it when climbing or doing other activities. However I wasn't climbing anything very hard.
It was about a week before she was forced to go to the doc as the pressure behind the nail became unbearable. The needle down behind the nail relieved most of it, then the doc drilled a hole straight into the nail like yours. I really wouldn't worry too much, the nail will grow back like before. Like one of the posters above, I lost a toenail after it was crushed by a large rock. It grew back just as ugly as it's been all my life! Give it a few months...
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