UKC

If you're heading to Gilwern now that lockdown in Wales has eased, be aware that some shameless scumbag has systematically stolen all the bolt hangers and belay rings from the routes at the entrance to Tyla Quarry. I don't understand how anyone could have the immorality to do this. It wastes all the hard work of the equippers, has cost them hundreds of pounds and makes that section of the crag unclimbable. If it's been done by other new routers who've used the hangers elsewhere then I can't express how much I despise your attitude. 

Yeah, whoever did this are utter c***s.

I'm not familiar with the location. However my first thought was is it possible given the systematically removal that this could be action taken by the land owner?

Don't think so. I have not heard of any access problems.There are dozens of other routes in Tyla Quarry which are untouched. It looks as if the thief just systematically stripped the first section as they walked in. The fact they screwed the nuts back on after taking the hangers would suggest they are climbers, who know that the hangers could be replaced. There was no attempt to damage the bolts themselves.

For those with the new Gilwern Area guidebook, the routes affected are on the Entrance Wall of Tyla Quarry,  page 66, routes 19 to 23. Obviously other areas could be affected but we didn't spot any other missing hangers yesterday.

If you do search on here you will find that there have been some access issues in the past.

I think the access issues were with the farmer who owns Gilwern East and re that crag. The bolt hangers have been missing for over a year prior to the publication of the new guide book,presumably in plenty of time for this to be mentioned in the guide.Must have been an oversight hey Mark.

That would be an ecumenical matter.

You have to be careful describing in print situations which could be only temporary, though. When doing FCQ I was sent some new route information which said "traverse all the way to the white bush". Turned out it was only white for a few weeks in Spring when in flower

Perhaps these were deciduous hangers.

Oh I love imprecise descriptions. "Start at the obvious flake". I can see five obvious flakes.

I understand there has been some sport v trad ethic debate at gilwern before - e.g. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rockfax/gilwern_east_sidewinder_6b+__bolt...

Possibly this is related

In that case the two (apparently very good) sport routes were debolted, the holes filled with resin and in one case a new peg placed.

Yes, they were returned to their original (very good) trad status by the first ascenionists.