/ Hard crimpy face climbs

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dan gibson - on 07 Mar 2019

I'm looking for sport venues that have sustained crimpy face climbs(not slabs) in the high 7s and 8s.

Siurana has plenty of routes in this style, anywhere else people would recommend, or particular skin shredding favourites?

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Tyler - on 07 Mar 2019
In reply to dan gibson:

Do you mean UK or abroad? In UK the Malham, Creag a' Bhancair and Welsh Slate all have plenty. Abroad the 'original' bits of Verdon gorge?

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AJM - on 07 Mar 2019
In reply to dan gibson:

Smith rock

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cb294 - on 07 Mar 2019
In reply to dan gibson:

Large parts of Frankenjura (where it is not one fingered pocket puling),

CB

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keith sanders - on 07 Mar 2019
In reply to dan gibson:

Chuilla big long routes fly to Valencia Just got back myself, also my type of climbing.

keith s

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dan gibson - on 07 Mar 2019
In reply to Tyler:

Was thinking Europe.

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dan gibson - on 07 Mar 2019
In reply to keith sanders:

I've been to Chulilla quite a bit. Agree it's a great place.

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dan gibson - on 07 Mar 2019
In reply to cb294:

Never been to Frankenjura as my perception was that its steep pocket pulling. I will investigate further...

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dan gibson - on 07 Mar 2019
In reply to AJM:

Been to Smith about 20 years ago, definitely need to go back.

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Ramon Marin - on 07 Mar 2019
In reply to dan gibson:

Voralpsee?

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jackob - on 07 Mar 2019
In reply to dan gibson:

Chapel head scar

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MischaHY - on 07 Mar 2019
In reply to dan gibson:

Definitely get to Verdon if you like that crimping style. The rock is a little friendlier to the skin than in Siurana and even more compact! Happy to recommend some routes, drop me a PM. 

Don't assume it's all multipitch either (although many utterly brilliant routes are!), there's been much development in recent years and there is a good amount of long, crimpy single pitch with rarely any other climbers around. 

It's also worth contacting Alan Carne on Facebook about Verdon, he's got a wealth of information to share. 

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dan gibson - on 07 Mar 2019
In reply to Ramon Marin:

Nice one Ramon, that's exactly what I'm after.

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Emilio Bachini on 07 Mar 2019
In reply to dan gibson:

Mama Endika (8a+)

Deseo en Vida (8a)

Ace ventura (8a)

You might struggle with conditions for the first 2, being South facing and access with the Camino on the third but they’re all meant to be really good. 

Post edited at 14:05
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llanberis36 - on 07 Mar 2019
In reply to Rebecca Ting - UKC and Rockfax:

Great call. Incidently looking for a partner to work this, this summer

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TonyB - on 07 Mar 2019
In reply to Rebecca Ting - UKC and Rockfax:

I was about to recommend the same crag. The 7c there is hideous, but if you like horribly tiny crimps you might not think it as heinous as I did.

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Ramon Marin - on 07 Mar 2019
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rachelpearce01 - on 07 Mar 2019
In reply to dan gibson:

You certainly have !! Nearly every route I try you’ve done hehe

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zv - on 07 Mar 2019
In reply to dan gibson:

Arco, crag Nago in particular. 

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In reply to llanberis36:

Given I can abseil into it from my front garden, I might manage some belay duties. I would need to shed some serious weight and get serious on the fingerboard to even get into the pulling on zone though... 

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llanberis36 - on 12 Mar 2019
In reply to Rebecca Ting - UKC and Rockfax:

Cheers will take you up on that when dried out 

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