UKC

Help identify this injury

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 ebdon 16 Apr 2021

Bouldering last night I managed to injure my ring finger, I have no pain in the finger itself but feel it mid forearm when loading it, I also felt somthing in my forearm go when I did it. I presume this isnt a pully thing as my fingers themselves feel fine? I'm probably going to go climbing tomorrow as the weather looks nice so will tape it to f*ck, but I'm not sure what to tape!

 Stairclimber 16 Apr 2021
In reply to ebdon:

No idea what your injury is but if you do go climbing tomorrow you will make it worse and take longer to recover and so miss more climbing than you need to. Listen to your body.

 LakesWinter 16 Apr 2021
In reply to ebdon:

flexor unit strain.

Look it up - just crimp loads and dont open hand, weird eh.

OP ebdon 16 Apr 2021
In reply to Stairclimber:

My body says send!!!! (Apart from my forearm which says go to the pub)

1
OP ebdon 16 Apr 2021
In reply to LakesWinter:

Amazing, thanks that's exactly it, I didn't think it was a pully as it was a weird deep 2 finger pocket (which is how everyone else on the internet seems to have done theres) 

Sounds like taping to the little finger is the way to go (and being gentle) 

That will serve me right for limestone boldering.

Edit: I just tested taping my ring finger to my little finger on my board and can confirm this works a treat! Thanks Lakeswinter

Post edited at 20:08
 LakesWinter 16 Apr 2021
In reply to ebdon:

Thanks - it shouldn't hold you back when climbing - way better than getting a pully injury

 tehmarks 16 Apr 2021
In reply to ebdon:

100% don't climb on it if you feel actual acute pain, and especially if you felt something go at the point of injury. Injuries suck and missing good weather sucks - but being out for a long time or causing a permanent/recurring/chronic issue because you climbed on an injury sucks even more, and you'll kick yourself very hard for how avoidable it was if it does happen.

Edit: but you seem to have had better and more specific advice since I last refreshed, so ignore me!

Post edited at 21:09
OP ebdon 16 Apr 2021
In reply to tehmarks:

Cheers, fortunately I don't think it's that bad an injury and it only hurts in a very specific set of circumstances, hopefully by being careful and lots of tape I can climb through, I am very wary of ruining this season,especially after lockdown!


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