Posted on planetfear.com
Alex Huber has to say (from Desinevel): ...which raises a number of issues!!!!!
Hello!
I have just read the news about fernandes' first ascent, which should be 9b+. I am
not in the world of superhard sportclimbing routes anymore, so it does not affect
me directly any more. still, sportclimbing is very important for me and therefore i
keep on being interested, what's going on.
In fact, fernandez is in the same
position than fred roughling 8 years ago, when he gave the grade 9b for his route
akira. he had no references, which could prove his ability to climb routes of that
difficulty. Doubts will continue about the ascent of akire for several reasons. we still
do not know, how hard akira is in fact. it could eventually be not harder than 9a?
but it also could be something like 9b - but then i would simply not believe him that
he has climbed it. Or he has climbed akira and the route is really 9b today, but he
might have chopped some of the holds. who knows?
Fact is, that if he would have climbed a route of the grade 9b, he should have been
able to climb a route of the grade 9a on 'second go', at least 'within a day', and he
should be able to 'on sight' routes up to the grade 8c+. roughling, though a strong
climber, never did come even close to be such a capable climber, so there is no way
that the climbing community could give him any credit at all.
The same problem will
have fernandez now. if he would be able to climb 9b+, then he must be in the
position to climb 'realization' at 'second go', at least 'within a day'. and he should
be able to 'on sight' routes of the grade 9a! i wonder if he could come even close to
climb 'action directe' within in a day!
I hope for fernandez that he is going to make a documentation, which should be
made now - after he proposed the grade 9b+. he should be still able to climb the
route maybe with no more than one time resting in the rope, because the ascent is
still 'fresh'. the climbing world could then believe him doing his route if we can see
a documentation like ramonet on la rambla.
If fernandez would like to have the
credit for doing chilam balam, then he should go with you and a video filmer back
to the route next week. make a documentation like on la rambla! then we could
believe that he did this route.
Concerning his capapbility to climb 9b+: he goes to ceuse and he sends chris
sharmas 'realization' second go. but, to be true, i am sure that fernandez is far
from being capable to achieve that. Please, let also know fernandez about this
matter. maybe you translate this email and send it to him. i do think not bad about
him at all. he just should not make any mistakes now. he should know that he has
to prove his ability to climb 9b now, if he is not ready to do that then he will loose
the credit in the international climbing world completely. For sure.
As you know, i also do speak castellano. so let fenandez know that i am ready to
give him advice in this matter. let him know that proposing grade 9b+ is a serious
matter, whereabout he should not make a mistake.
Proposing the grade 9b+
means that he does make other capable climbers such as sharma, ramonet, iker
pou, dani andrada.... look like a kindergarden...Also you should know about the
important position, which you have for the climbing world. desnivel is one of the
most important magazines in the world and therefore you should think about
seriously, which ascents you are going to give credit.
Best regards,
Alexander.
