Does anyone have any ideas about where to take a group to play on some rocks without a rope at Portland? I know about some of the sport climb areas there e.g. the Cuttings and Blacknor but would love some suggestions for places to take a group of beginners to mess around on some rocks for a morning/ the day.
Mugley's Plain part of the Lighthouse Area is a great spot for beginner bouldering and hanging out/taking a dip. To quote Rockfax's Dorset Bouldering: "A quarried area with over 50 vertical problems of a perfect height above predominantly flat landings. The expansive ledge at the base creates a pleasant family-friendly location..."
Mats definitely an advantage as the landings (although flat) are on rock.
About 20 of the problems are in the V0 - V1 range, with more of the same in adjacent coves. There is also a couple of good easy DWS routes nearby The Red Crane Traverse (VS 4c) & Temporary Lifestyle (HS 4b). Cafe/ice creams available by the Lighthouse too.
This photo gives a good idea of the place: https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=265187
Once took a group of my son's friends in their mid-teens on a few hundred yard low tide traverse, easy + walking, including Cave Hole. One end is the rickety ladder (still there?) by Temporary Lifestyle. Interesting. We did it from other end and they got down using my shoulder to step on. Short swim prob near ladder. Prob best to reconnoitre first. Mentioned in the old "Into the Blue" DWS book.
