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anonymous12309 Jan 2018
Can someone please elaborate on and explain the differences, pros and cons of each of the following ways of defeating a loaded belay device in guide mode (say, ATC guide as an example):
- re-directing the brake strand
- re-directing the load strand
- LSD-Load Strand Direct lower; Marc Chauvin's system
Your method will be dictated by the device, ie. the Pivot may be easier to lower on than a ATC Guide.
Whichever method you choose, practice it before you need it, there's been near misses in the lowering process.
That was a great video. I learned an almost identical technique years ago (with the only difference being the inclusion of a stopper/catastrophe knot) but am yet to do this in anger.
+1 for practice, tried this on a vertical route in the gym once without redirect and it was nearly a disaster.
thereafter went for a redirect and munter on the harness and changed to a pivot when they came out.
Your use of a prusik looks a good idea, I will give it a go when I can find a victim ????
I'm just wondering why anyone would do anything other than redirecting the brake strand as you do in the video - seems much simpler than the LSD lower.
I'd probably use an italian hitch on the redirect for added friction and backup with a catastrophe knot until i was sure the prusik would hold (maybe overkill, I haven't tried guide mode before).
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