UKC

It's been five weeks, today I saw the consultant again and he took some more X-rays. I followed the instructions to a t, but still no good, he thinks there is some healing perhaps (some calcification but not a lot), but he suggested another four weeks wearing the splint before coming to see him again! I despair. Anyone got any advice or positive thoughts, it's the best / main rock time in Scotland ruined. And it's really hard to do anything with this bloody splint - I can't even clean the house. I am now getting wrist strain on my other hand as I have to do everything with this one, particularly typing.

Anyone got any amusing thoughts, helpful hints of how to cope with inactivity? I am just so bored doing nothing...

My only thought is, you can still run with a splinted finger! Best get fell running...

Thanks! Yeah, but even that is not great. It's a pain to tie shoe laces and everything to pick up, opening a door is rubbish. I was set to run the Stirling Marathon, but I canned it as I just couldn't perform at my best. I think walking might be the way forward. I have 28 Corbetts left...Maybe that's an idea?

Buy a battery powered friend to prevent you getting wrist strain in the other hand?

Haha! You mean somebody to do the cleaning and typing..? hmmm still won't help with my bloody frustration. 

Good point and they're absolutely rubbish at getting a round of drinks in!

If it were me, I'd read lots.  Well that's what I did when I had a month long infection.  That and I watched all of Fullmetal Alchemist Brotherhood (if you only want one non-miyazaki anime, watch that).  Can you do other things (run? walk?) without having to use your hand?

Sorry to hear that, sounds like a solid six on the betamonkeys scale of injury... 

http://betamonkeys.co.uk/injury/

I'd try to see it as an time to do something else rather than time you can't be climbing. If you're looking for exercise you've got running, swimming, cycling, yoga etc. If you're stuck inside try something new art, music, craft, reading, learn something like a language etc.

Good luck! 

Yeah, a definite grade 6! Cheers for the assessment, greasy prussic  ! Unfortunately the exercise thing is rubbish as well. Swimming - no, can't get it wet. Running, no good, because of having to use injured hand. Yoga. even worse.  I just have to suck it up and do something else - which is very hard. Particularly after the last 6 months of hideous weather in Scotland. 

Yes! Go finish the Corbetts. You need a goal.(or atleast, I'm always happier with a goal!)

I've had a fairly rubbish time with my quite drastic hernia repair. My goals are all now surf / running based. I've resigned myself to not bouldering properly ever again - atleast not the next few years. I've had to readjust and come to terms with injury. Atleast you'll be back on rock soon!!!

Best wishes,

BB

Thank you for your comments. Very kind, particularly as you are having trouble yourself! Hope it goes well for you and you will be climbing again sometime!!!

Yes, I  think am going to go for the Corbetts, that would be  a nice goal anyways...

Thanks again

Hmm that's a pretty demanding finger you've got there. I'll keep thinking about the exercise and see what I can come up with.

At least you'll have loads of psyche when you do get back climbing though but in the meantime don't miss a chance to make people bring you food! 

Is this the only consultant you've seen? When I get suggested a treatment like that which will have potentially long lasting negative impact (or they're really keen to operate), I get a second and third opinion before going with it. Volker Schoffel is reasonably priced and available as the world leading expert on climbing finger injuries. I've never yet regretted shelling out for top notch care of my joints, you only get one body.

Bring me food??.. Goodness, I need to stay light. (I would like to eat food though ..., but hey!!!) 

Thanks, I am already shelling out. I went to a private consultant (the Nhs person I saw for one minute was a nurse who send me on my merry way) I now went private (180 pound a pop it costs plus the the X-ray at 120 pound and that is already my second private appointment and now I am booked in for the third...). The guy seems nice and I have seen the X-rays and have made my own research,  I looked at lots of studies. I don't think he is wrong, it is just disappointing how long it takes. I had hoped for a quicker resolution...

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Sorry to hear that. I’m 6 months into a mallet finger injury and no amount of splinting or exercises have helped.

Whilst I’m now pain free, the hope of ever straightening that bit of my finger is long gone. 

The fact you’re only 5 weeks in suggests you’ve got to give it way more time.

Sorry not to be more positive, but think you need to be realistic about how long it could potentially take to heal. 

Like others have said, try and keep yourself distracted with physical activity you can get away with. 

Best of luck. 

Thanks for your reply.

Oof. sounds grim  What a nuisance.

My finger is  straight now , consultant checked today and there is no pain, the x-ray shows the broken bone still though. 

Keep looking forward at what you can and will be able to do.

This got me through several dark months a few years back when I had to have my face rebuilt after a fall winter climbing. If you focus on the 'I can't do that' side of things you may slide in to a very bad place.

You mentioned the Corbetts - do it. It's a great target and should cheer you immeasurably when you complete. Then go running and when the finger is fine back to climbing.

Sounds easy I know and it won't be, but you WILL get through it!

I actually thought that your injury was caused by a wooden hitty thing and didn't realise that 'mallet finger injury' was an actual medical term.
Got to love UKC, it's a total educational experience...
 

Great advice.

Advice I'm trying to follow myself!

Healing takes a lot longer than people anticipate, particularly when the summer climbing season is about the same length as an expected recovery period!

Good luck.

Haha, I did the same with my injury recently. Also watched (and would recommend) Magi the Labyrthing of magic, and Samurai Champloo (if you like Cowboy bebop).

Yes, it's such a stupid name! Particularly as a lot of people get it from making beds and tucking in bedsheets. In my case it was almost right as it was 25 kg landing on my fingers at great speed ...

Assuming you can still drive then Corbett bashing may be the way to go.

Can you still cycle - either MTB or road bike (dif handlebars), worth a try.

Or Dawes stylee climbing on slabs - nae hands, only feet.

Or just "man up" and go climb, even with your splint - hasn't stopped Kev Shields! (and I know he doesn't have a splint)

I can drive and I have  a supportive husband who can drive...so maybe it's the time to knock those Corbetts off - 29 to go. I can cycle on the road, I think off road might be causing too much damage. On road you only really need one hand, particularly if you are not pushing it. I tried some slab climbing with holds - as we had  a holiday booked to Greece, it was remarkably ok as long as you have holds, but a bit unsatisfactory overall as the only thing I could do was up to 5c sport (with lots of holds and it being a slab) But hey, beggars can't be choosers....

I think I leave the man up approach...I thought about it, but I think I'd rather suffer in the short term for long-term gain. It's just so bl***y annoying

Ive had three mallet finger injuries, both little fingers and my ring finger  on my left hand wore the splint as i was told to and only one finger actually healed straight the other two didn't really improve the last specialist i saw said only surgery to re-attach the tendon has a good chance of working. the two that didn't heal dont bother me at all. I was left with the feeling next time i'd have the surgery or just sack it off completely.  dont know if thats a very responsible attitude, but your right the splints are a pain in the arse.

Cheers. Keep at it, even when it seems not to be going well, as it does get better eventually...