UKC

/ New Rose Thorn Crag

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Dibona - on 15 May 2018

Thorn Crag

For any Thorn Crag enthusiasts out there the description for the route New Rose seems to have become confused over time.

It does not finish up the dirty crack up which it starts. It traverses left below the roof and climbs the wild heel hook roof crack up which the excellent looking Brief Period of Fuzziness also now finishes.

It is a great route probably E2 5C and the roof finish is the whole point of the route. 

Owain Jones

Post edited at 00:12
petegunn on 16 May 2018
In reply to Dibona:

I recorded this in my entry, so did i do the finish wrongly??

"A superb top out where you have to contort around the roof and blocks. The 2nd chockstone is a big wobbly".

 

Phil Kelly - on 16 May 2018
In reply to Dibona:

Just for reference, here are Owain's FA notes (dated 18th August 1986):

New Rose E1 5c * 30ft

Climbs the chockstone-filled crack 10ft right of GF [Grimly Fiendish] and the weird roof just left of the termination of the crack.

1st Ascent Owain Jones, unseconded

2nd Ascent Steve Edmondson

Both were climbed totally on sight. Summer 86.

Dibona - on 16 May 2018
In reply to petegunn:

Hi Pete I'm not sure if you finished directly above the start then no. If you look in the latest Lancs Guide New Rose is marked incorrectly. It is also marked incorrectly on the Rock and Run mini topo.

You climb the crack to level with the top of the solid buttress traverse this a fair way left and pull over at the obvious heel hook, flounder move. 

I bivvied there as a youth with Steve Edmondson and we both led Grimly Fiendish and New Rose on sight. Whilst hiding from the gamekeeper!

The finish of the new E6 described as the best heel hook in Lancashire is actually the route New Rose. You don't have to climb E6 to enjoy it though so I thought it worth pointing out.

 

 

Post edited at 14:36
Phil Kelly - on 16 May 2018
In reply to Dibona:

When I said "Owain's FA notes" maybe I should have said "Your FA notes"...?


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