UKC

Headed the the Dolomites in a couple of weeks, and looking at doing Piaz Arete on Vajolet Towers. I've read conflicting things regarding the gear, from a full trad rack to just draws and slings. Anyone have any advice on what's best to take? I don't fancy lugging a full rack up if its not needed!

Thanks!

I think I took cams silver to bigger yellow, so 5 cams in total and half a set of wires.  You'll need 2 x50m or 2 x60 for the abs. It's amazing at the grade. Enjoy. 

There is no right answer to this, it's entirely dependent on how comfortable/confident you are running it out at the grade. I've done it twice, with a few slings and about half a dozen medium nuts. I was ok with that, to supplement the in situ gear, but another person might not be. Deffo half ropes for the abs though. And if you get catastrophically stuck Pietro from the rifugio will probably come to the rescue, if he's there 

Oooh okay amazing, thanks! Already got the two 50s ready. I'll chuck a few cams in as well then. Yeah really excited for it, been on the list for a long time! Thanks for the advice! 

I'm not too fussed with run outs provided the climbing is steady. How much fixed pro is up there? 

from memory there is quite a bit of fixed gear, all pegs. I believe belays are all in-situ as well. I echo what others have said: definitely take trad gear, but probably not that much, maybe 1 set of nuts and cams 0.5-1? i have a vague recollection of there being some nice threads that you can get a standard extendable quickdraw around. 

caveat: it was 9 years ago i did it, so my word is far from gospel.

Oh okay, that sounds good then! Think a set of nuts and a couple cams is the way to go then. I'll make sure I've got a few slings too. Thanks for the reply! 

According to bergsteiger.com, all stances are now equipped with double bolts and chain. The mobile pro is apparently not really necessary if you have a couple of grades in hand and are ok with the exposure; the main pain would seem to be overcrowding, often with 10+ teams on the route.

Has anybody done the abseiling for this route with a single rope instead of double ropes? I know it's obviously a lot faster to use two, but bringing multiple ropes isn't really an option for us on this trip. I found this topo that suggests it could be done in 5 sections (20m, 20m, 20m, 20m, & 30m) instead of the two 60m sections, but I wanted to see how feasible that is since everything suggests double ropes for this route.