UKC

Possibly heading to Verdon in October for the first time. What is the best guidebook for the area?

Route recommendations are very welcome too (around 6a to 7a+) 

I thought Gwendal was utterly brilliant when I did it (in ‘92). The short 7b section was bolted so you can aid past which leaves 6c+ as the hardest free climbing.

Do check for up to date info before committing.

I enjoyed Mort a Venise, Necronomicon, Surveiller et Punir, Wideislove, Boulevard des Stars.

L'ange en Décomposition (7a)

possibly the best 7a in the world. 

Quite probably the best I've ever done at the least!

Rêves de Fer (6b+) is a great intro to the multipitch climbing at the Verdon, Incredible exposure and technical climbing on immaculate rock.

The main pitch of Ctuluh (7a) is also magnificent.

I used this blogpost a lot for recommendations on a recent visit. https://steepground.blogspot.com/2020/09/twenty-five-routes-worth-doing-in....

The best guidebook (52 years and 520 routes) is hard to get hold of in paper form but all the content is available here https://omegaroc.com/en/rock-climbing-in-verdon/ - being honest it’s a bit of a crap format, but I found by screenshotting the topos then I didn’t have to faff around too much on route. 
 

I enjoyed Série Limitée (7a), Les Marches du Temps (7a) and Rivière d'Argent (6b+)

I had to do both Ula and Demande on my first visit, memorable experiences and then get stuck into some stuff from the rim.

Glad you mentioned two of the best long classics, Peter.

Back in the 70s, folk used to retreat from Alpine weather or just drive direct with the latest Mountain mag article, basically a photo of the crag and a list of classics. Later Pete Livesey's guide came out with pitch descriptions but we had managed without as the lines were so strong that it was OK once you had the right start.

The list of standard classics was something like

Demande

Ula

Luna Bong

Eperon Sublime

Triumphe d Eros

Micronicron

Pichnibule

Estemporane + another on same crag

Enrages

Solanuts

 Dalles Grises

Please excuse my spelling, any others?

I think we only started doing shorter 4! pitch routes mid 80s.

Pilier des Ecureuils ?

Thanks. I could remember who I did it with and the year but not the route name. Doh.