UKC

Willersley - routes cleaned recently

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 Ian Milward 02 Aug 2018

Boomerang - top half unearthed, remaining peg replaced. Cleanest it's been for 20-odd years? As polished as ever (but there's a reason for that...)

PTO - clean, dry, new tat, finish tidied up. 

Pleasure Dome - was largely ok but the overgrown finish currently unearthed and de-brambled.

Last Testament - essentially clean, peg still ok, good route!

Babylon - the hanging gardens which provided the name are once more confined to the last 7m. . A Matlock classic properly back on the menu for the first time in mega-yonks! Major line with great features above the tree and through the overhang. Care required in the exit groove.

 

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 Offwidth 03 Aug 2018
In reply to Ian Milward:

Cheers Ian 

 Luke90 03 Aug 2018
In reply to Ian Milward:

Lots of routes I'm interested in on that list. Thank you so much!

 Graeme Hammond 03 Aug 2018
In reply to Ian Milward:

Thanks very much!

Did Babylon a few weeks ago and pulled a few bits of veg and dusted a few holds off as we went but sounds like you have done a proper job. Was an excellent route so must be even better now, assume the last 7m ish is still fairly grotty though! 

Had been thinking of cleaning/replacing the peg on boomerang to try to revive this once classic so will be heading down for that before it gets any more polished.

Pleasure Dome is on the wish list so cheers!

Did PTO last year and was one of the best peak lime routes I'd done in ages (well worth the 3* it got in the new guide) would be good to see this get more attention. Think I managed to get alternative cams to the manky tat but I'm sure everyone appreciate its removal!

Great escape from the heat while it lasts

 robert-hutton 03 Aug 2018
In reply to Ian Milward:

That Peg was passed its best 40 years ago when I did it with you.

"Thanks Ian"

OP Ian Milward 03 Aug 2018
In reply to robert-hutton:

Ey up, Rob! I think I've only done it twice since! The last time was about a month ago and I was so disgusted at the state of the top half I felt compelled to tidy it up. Rugs of grass, etc... The peg at the start of the traverse was bent and unconvincing but actually fairly solid. Hopefully the replacement will last as long... 

In reply to Ian Milward:

Nice one Ian, haven't been to Willersley in ages but this'll give me good reason to go back.

OP Ian Milward 03 Aug 2018
In reply to Graeme Hammond:

Yep, they're all good but were all suffering from a lack of gardening. Pleasure Dome is a great route and for now you can top out without having to put up with loads of spiky things scratching your suntan.

Good effort on Babylon beforehand. I lowered a 30-40 kg tottering pillar out of the top groove! You can now do the starting move off it!

 

Post edited at 16:14
 steveb2006 03 Aug 2018
In reply to Ian Milward:

Good effort. 2 or 3 years ago I led Pleasure Dome carrying a pair of secatuers up with me to snip away the horrendous wild rose bushes at top.  The (cheap) secatuers snapped in half at the first cut!. Best intentions - just had to battle through.

In reply to Ian Milward:

Well done Ian, good effort. I keep cleaning plants off the traverse every time i go down there, it's been the only place out of the sun locally for ages.

 Alkis 06 Aug 2018
In reply to steveb2006:

Lead it once, seconded it once. Drew blood both times...! :-D


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