UKC

Training for a bouldering comp.

What type of areobic fittness shall i do?

I'm thinking some type of short burst running stuff..

In reply to Liam Copley:
Don't waste your time.
Work strength.

In reply to dirtbag1: ok, so im guessing its not that important then

In reply to Liam Copley:

for a bouldering comp just stick to power, unless you drastically need to lose weight, which you clearly dont

In reply to J.Wells: ok cheers

In reply to Liam Copley: What boudlering comp are you training for?

In reply to Liam Copley:

Short burst running is an-aerobic isn't it??

Might be wrong...

In reply to Liam Copley:

Running is good for everything.

In reply to elephant0907: So is tiddle-winks, but that won't help your bouldering either.

In reply to elephant0907: yeah i dont really know much about running and stuff lol, i just thought i would generally call it that lol

In reply to elephant0907:
yes you are correct. Will use either the phosphocreatine system or the lactic acid system.

In reply to Liam Copley:
Don't bother. Strength and power will be much more effective.

In reply to Liam Copley:

youtube.com/watch?v=PNRIA7ckJeE&

Dave seen here fell running - best climber in world - must be worth something

In reply to highrepute:

Better than Patxi, Andrada, Sharma, Graham, Ondra, Ramonet?

In reply to Serpico: Check the clip. Maybe he runs past the best climber in the world.

In reply to Liam Copley:
There's a fair bit of info around on this if you dig. You're talking about cross-training. The general gist is that having a good base of aerobic fitness allows you to tolerate more power and strength training by recovering faster. Also increased capilirisation of muscles helps you deal with lactic acid more effectively. Just don't over do it else you'll get weaker by being tired from the running. Dave McCleod apparently used to run 10km after his strength session as active recovery!

In reply to Serpico: yes he is better than all off them, prehaps even all of them put together.. end of potential arguement

In reply to TeaGirl:

Except your knees

In reply to james oswald:

haha, A-level biology huh? Rocks all over the place. But it's a good point, I didn'y really read the first post properly - short burst running (if you mean sprinting) wont do anything for your aerobic fitness. If you have loads of spare time in which to train, it wouldn't hurt to go for a few long slow runs to burn off any excess fat if you have it. It probably won't make any noticable difference though. On the other hand, sprinting definitely won't help, as it'll only build up unnecessary muscle. It's a good point about the active rest thing though. Theres a fair bit of evidence to suggest that you recover faster through light activity than just doing nothing, so you could always cycle or run to and from your local wall, and even if it doesn't actually help your climbing, it'll at least act as a much better warm up/warm down. I cycle to mine and it takes just as long as the tube, but means I don't have to spend any time trying to warm up before I stretch before I climb.

In reply to J.Wells:
Nope A level PE.

In reply to Liam Copley:

aha! I should have known, I was thinking you must be really into it to have just pulled that up without checking a textbook first.

In reply to Liam Copley: Running at least three times a week would be of benefit to you longer term. Stronger legs and core with increased felxibility are some of the additional benefits to the aerobic aspect of running.

As for damaging knees. It's complete bollocks and don't listen to those that tell you otherwise. Just build up slow if you are going to start running. A famous American big waller used to run uphills in Yosemite and then walk down just to build leg strength.

In reply to TeaGirl:

Are you a podiatrist (sp?) by any chance ;-P

In reply to iain roberto:
Very interesting advice....but useless.
His time (the crucial factor in everybody's training) would be better spent training weaknesses. When did you last fall off a BOULDER PROBLEM in a comp due to not having strong enough legs!
Hanging a crimp on a 45 degree wall and throwing to another is going to to need other factors than leg strength and aerobic fitness.
In a well rounded training programme aerobic exercise has an important place, but three times a week in training for a boulder comp? He'd be better off spending that time (3 hours?) hanging off a fingerboard, doing weighted pull-ups, broom-of-doom, presses, rotator cuff work, core etc etc etc.....then when body fat, weight, aerobic fitness for sport routes etc become his weakness start with more of a focus on aerobic training.

In reply to dirtbag1: Read my post. I said in the longer term it would be of benefit if he ran. I agree that short term, sprinting would be useless for his competition.

What is the broom of doom ? Tried googling and didn't come up with anything that was realted to climbing or training ?!?

Ol

In reply to iain roberto:
You did.......I need at least 2 cups of coffee before I can see properly nowadays.
Apologies Mr Roberto.

In reply to Oliver Wright:
Yes it is related to climbing and training!
Get a broom handle, cut it to about a foot in length, attach about a metre of cord (3mm/4mm) to the centre of the broom handle with a knot and the bit of gaffa or the like to stop it slipping around the handle when twisted. Attach a plate weight(or full water bottle etc) to the end of the cord.
Stand up with arms held out to the front holding the handle on each side of the cord and start to wind the cord up with a controlled shuffle/twist motion, then when then weight get to the handle reverse the process (controlled lowering, don't just let it slip)....keep doing this until your head explodes, experiment with various weights, it's about duration not how heavy the weight is. Keep good form etc etc. (If it gets too easy make the broom smaller diameter).

In reply to mas:

Some good advice here. While running might not immediately make you a better boulderer, it can't hurt. I run a lot (mostly off-road, hills and endurance) but don't boulder much so, guess what, I'm not good at bouldering. But I'm fit and that's useful for everything!