UKC

Howdy

Just recently starting out.
Been deliberating over shoes for too long.
(Been squeezing my feet into some ex-hire shoes, way too small, absolutely killing/crippling me). Not after a pair of shoes that'll last forever, nothing too technical yet, just something to get me going, until I (hopefully!) start to advance.
I have quite big feet, tried loads on & narrowed it down to a shortlist of two.
Both seem to fit ok in the shop, heard various cons about both.

Evolv Defy: Start to honk after a short time (like landfill someone said!)
Don't last too long.
Scarpa Vantage: Rubber isn't too sticky.

Anybody out there use/love/loathe either of these shoes.
(Realise that stickiness would mean lasting less time).
Had some bits of really good advice of users, so would really appreciate any comments.

Taa

In reply to Roger Irrelevant: go for the scarpers. I have them and there fine. supper comfy and there sticky enough.

In reply to Roger Irrelevant:

The Scarpa's are pretty decent all-rounders to begin with and are reasonably comfortable too.

I've only climbed once in Evolv shoes - didn't suit me.

In reply to Roger Irrelevant:

Scarpas...

In reply to Roger Irrelevant: I have Vantage and Thunders, I think thunder are by far the best. Very comfy, stiff ish sole and grippy. Going cheap at Go outdoors last I checked.

In reply to Roger Irrelevant:

The Evolvs are good, very soft and comfortable. Good allrounders but not especially tough. They do stink like death very quickly, mine have periodic bleachings to keep it bearable.

No direct experience of the Scarpa though I'm sure it'll be fine if you prefer them or thy fit better.

jk

In reply to Roger Irrelevant:
Scarpa Thunders are good. They fit well (well ok they fit me well) and are comfy.
Go to a climbing shop. Get a snug pair which fit but aren't floppy.
James

In reply to Roger Irrelevant:
Had/got some Vantage. Good thick supportive sole. Will stretch a wee bit. I wear socks with mine. Evolvs do whiff!
Rubber will bed in a bit.

In reply to Roger Irrelevant:

I've had the Vantages for a year now - still use them. They are a good shoe - absolutely great for smearing (better than my La Sportiva Miuras!), and people used to complain that at the indoor wall I would simply "use the wall as a foothold"! Anyway, they do smell just as bad as the Defys I'm afraid, but they will do well!

Chris

In reply to Roger Irrelevant:

if youve only just started cimbing, the only things you should be worried about in a shoe is the fit and the price!
basically as long as they are comfortable, buy them. not only should they be comfortable standing on the ground, but try them on foot holds as well if you can.
if the most comfortable ones are cheap, bonus!

In reply to Roger Irrelevant: Been using Evolv Defy as my main shoes for the last 3 years and they excel as a comfortable all round shoe.

They are less stiff than many other shoes but are superbly comfortable straight out the box and the rubber offers an excellent blend of stiffness, good friction and reasonable durability. I also can't fault the build quality of any of the pairs I've had.

For long days outdoors standing around and doing a few easy routes the Vantages are probably better but for indoor climbing and more technical sport climbing or bouldering the Defy are probably more suitable.

However, I do need to admit a vested interest as I supply Evolv shoes to some of the climbers and climbing clubs I work with.

In reply to Roger Irrelevant:

I got the scarpas and they are great, good price at go outdoors at the moment 2.

In reply to Roger Irrelevant: Hi Roger. The two on your shortlist are very different in shape. Do they really both fit you equally well?

That aside, the Defy isn't a beginners shoe (and shame on anyone that sells it as such). I'm not a great fan of pushing beginners into stiff old-school shoes but even so the Defy is just too soft for the average beginner. That said, if it fits you much better than anything else, I'd recommend getting it in spite of the softness.

Rubber makes no difference at all in comparison to fit. Nor does smell really in my opinion.

HTH, Iain

In reply to Mark Stevenson:

But you've been climbing, what, 15 years and lead E5. I'm sure your feet have the strength to edge fairly well in soft shoes. They probably also have the toughness to find a tighter-than-average fit comfortable.

In my experience beginners buying Defys don't get on so well in the long term.

I agree completely with your comments on the quality. All the Evolvs I have owned have been excellent and the overall rate of returns is very low indeed.

In reply to IainWhitehouse:

Spot on. It is very definitely a mid-range shoe but an extremely comfortable one which leads to the common recommendation to beginners.

As it happens, I currently only stock Defy up to size 9 and have other stiffer Evolv models in the larger sizes. Evolv Quest AF in particular offer really good performance despite being a stiffer older-style design.

In reply to IainWhitehouse:

The Defy is *very* soft. I must admit it's never even crossed my mind that my feet have toughened up over the years but I guess they may have. My Defys are like comfy (if rancid) old carpet slippers that I happen to climb in... brilliant, I love soft shoes though I can see how they could be a problem on soft feet.

jk

In reply to Roger Irrelevant:

Evolv Defy are really good. I rate their sensitivity and softness ( I hate stiff edging shoes).

In reply to IainWhitehouse: I have been climbing for 13 years now and have just bought a pair of Scarpa Vantages. I hope to be climbing E2 this year in them. They have a tough sole which means that you don't have to have toes of steel to edge on the tiniest pebble - the shoe does it for you.

My recommendation to the OP is to buy a comfortable shoe. After seeing blood from my toes come through the leather of my 5.10's after a trip to Yosemite, I have never been able to justify the theoretical (as far as my ability is concerned) increase in performance of a tight pair of shoes against the joy of climbing well in comfortable shoes.

In reply to Roger Irrelevant:


I bung my Evolv Elektras into the washing machine periodically on a Delicates cycle with a bit of Bold. Gets rid of the smell and the rubber is extra sticky for a while.

In reply to EeeByGum: I've climbed up to E2 in vantages, I really rate them. had to move on last month though due to having NO edge left on them what so ever!

In reply to Roger Irrelevant:

I really like my Vantages as they've been pretty comfy from the start & they're my 1st pair of climbing shoes. When I went to buy them the shop assistant had me trying on about 7 different pairs of shoes in 3 sizes each & that's how I landed with these. I like the fact that the arches are shaped & they thus provide a bit of support. I have found that the heel has gone a tiny little bit baggier, but not enough to bother me in anyway. They're lasting me pretty well (almost 2 years) as I'm no aspiring mega hard climber & thus don't need anything mega technical. Also the guy that went to the beginners course with me is on his second pair of shoes already (& he climbs a bit less than me as well) & mine's still going fine & have loads of mileage left in them!

Brilliant stuff.
Big thanks to everyone for your replies, much appreciated.
Looks like the Vantages it is then!