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Beginner bouldering, V3 too hard?

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 Evilllamas 04 Nov 2010
Hi

I cant attend to local indoor wall, as I'm not yet sixteen, though will soon be acquiring a crash pad etc, and will be able to boulder outdoors, in the local area.
most of the problems nearby, seem to be v3 ish, will these be ok for a beginner (I can climb about 6a-b) though am in the process of improving my grip etc.

I will be climbing at Hutton Roof probably (Cumbria) and maybe kentmere.

Thanks
 terryturbojr 04 Nov 2010
In reply to Evilllamas:

I think V3 will be pushing it for a 6a/b climber. I'm sure you'll find stuff to climb outside though, even if it's not in a guidebook.
 @ndyM@rsh@ll 04 Nov 2010
In reply to Evilllamas: V3 sounds fine, go for it.
 MHutch 04 Nov 2010
In reply to Evilllamas:

You should have no trouble finding easier problems at Hutton Roof. A lot of the steeper stuff on the RH side can be downclimbed or jumped off after a couple of moves if you have a pad. The long traverse is harder, but there are plenty of sections at English 5a/b V0/V1 if you break it up. And there are dozens of shorter walls and boulders at an easier standard if you have a wander around.
In reply to Evilllamas: V3 sounds pretty much spot on to me. Most people I know that climb in the low 6's tend to be able to do V3/4 in not too many goes.
Get on it and have fun.
OP Evilllamas 04 Nov 2010
ok thanks for the info and encouragements
 Tiberius 04 Nov 2010
In reply to Evilllamas:

> I cant attend to local indoor wall, as I'm not yet sixteen,

Do you only have one wall? My 15yo son is a full member of Leeds wall and The Foundry, he can go whenever he wants and lead climb and belay, the only thing he can't do is sign guests in (until he's 18). However he can't join The Edge until he's 18...but he is allowed to lead and belay as long as he's signed in by a member.

I climb 6b ish and boulder v3 ish, so sounds about right.
In reply to Evilllamas: Kentmere - Little Font and Badger Rock have loads to go at from V0 - V6... Grab a pad and head down there. Also Lakes Bouldering is a good book.
OP Evilllamas 09 Nov 2010
In reply to Tiberius: damn my location!
only about 5 months to go though
 EeeByGum 10 Nov 2010
In reply to Evilllamas: Get down there and give em a go. V3 ain't that hard! Even I have done a V3 in my time!
 Alun 10 Nov 2010
In reply to Evilllamas:
V3 can be very hard for a beginner, don't be disappointed if you get spat off quickly, especially if you've not done much bouldering outside. But in a way it's a perfect grade because it's not so hard, a V3 could be a great project.

So get your mat and get out there!

Also, try to focus less on your grip and more one your feet, body position and balance. Being strong is important, but without good technique you will struggle.
 MidnightR 15 Nov 2010
In reply to Evilllamas:

6a-b English or French? If the former then V3 will be easy, if the latter then probably a little hard. I'm doing V4/5 (4 outside) and can only climb around 5c-6a English. I don't much like sport/trad climbing mind you.

I would guess it depends a lot on the problem & what your good at too. Only way to tell is to try out some stuff...
 terryturbojr 16 Nov 2010
In reply to MidnightR:

> (In reply to Evilllamas)
>
> 6a-b English or French? If the former then V3 will be easy, if the latter then probably a little hard. I'm doing V4/5 (4 outside) and can only climb around 5c-6a English. I don't much like sport/trad climbing mind you.
>

I was thinking that. I climb French 6b/6c and have only done a couple of V3s, hence the post above saying it was a bit high, then everyone came in saying it was fine so I'm thinking they're talking English grades, it is a UK site after all.

I think I need to get my bouldering up to speed though as my English 5b/5c only translates to about V1/V2 for my bouldering.
 Kid Spatula 16 Nov 2010
In reply to Evilllamas:

I'm all over the place

I can top rope a French 6c+, lead about 6b with the odd 6c.

I can boulder around V4/5

I can trad lead around HS, second and top rope about E2/3

Hmm looks like I'm a massive coward.
 Chris Shorter 16 Nov 2010
In reply to Kid Spatula:
> (In reply to Evilllamas)
>
> I'm all over the place
>
> I can top rope a French 6c+, lead about 6b with the odd 6c.
>
> I can boulder around V4/5
>
> I can trad lead around HS, second and top rope about E2/3
>
> Hmm looks like I'm a massive coward.

Christ! The last time I could boulder at that standard I could lead E5!
 Kid Spatula 16 Nov 2010
In reply to Evilllamas:

I used to be able to lead E4

I fell off an E2, decked and done smashed me up about 10 years ago. Still a bit wonky about it, as it stopped me climbing for around 8 years.

Hence the massive discrepancies
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