UKC

/ Beginner routes in the North of England

Kat132 on 12 Jun 2018

Having recently received some instruction on leading (trad), I am looking for some crags in the north of England with well protected routes in the diff and vdiff grades (poss severe too). I'm familiar with many crags in the area from seconding but keen to know which might be ideal for early leading with plenty of well protected routes. Areas handy for me are North Yorkshire, North York Moors, County Durham and Northumberland (although I know there are plenty of places further afield). The Lake District is easily accessible too but there seems to be more information readily available for this area. 

Many thanks for any help. 

Post edited at 12:43
no_more_scotch_eggs - on 12 Jun 2018
In reply to Kat132:

Low man at almscliff should do the trick- a number of good routes in the diff to severe range, with decent protection, in a friendly setting. Fluted columns in particular is a classic at the grade (though some suggest the grade it’s a classic at is severe...)

 

Lots of good easy bouldering too. 

Post edited at 12:50
GrahamUney - on 12 Jun 2018
In reply to Kat132:

Hi Kat132. You should try Scugdale near Swainby on the North York Moors, and Brimham Rocks in Nidderdale. Both very good for low grade climbing, but you'll need to grab yourself the guidebooks to make sense of it all. Good luck, and let me know if you want to try multi-pitch in the Lakes!

Simon Caldwell - on 12 Jun 2018
In reply to no_more_scotch_eggs:

I first climbed at Almscliff when I was in a similar position, and it put me off gritstone for about 3 years!

 

Simon Caldwell - on 12 Jun 2018
In reply to GrahamUney:

Good suggestions. I'd add Rylstone to the list as well. And on the limestone Twistleton, Hawkswick, and Attermire. And maybe Oxenber.

Kid Spatula - on 12 Jun 2018
In reply to Kat132:

I suspect Alsmcliff, and particularly Fluted Columns could potentially put a beginner off climbing.

It's a lovely route, but it's quite spooky.

John Gresty - on 12 Jun 2018
In reply to Kid Spatula:

Fluted Columns. About the first route I was ever taken up, about 50 years ago now. And I went back the following week and soloed it wearing a pair of Dunlop Green Flash tennis shoes on my feet, bit stupid that was. Certainly did not put me off.

John

Andy Gamisou - on 12 Jun 2018
In reply to Kat132:

Kyloe (out) and Bowden Doors would be pretty good too.  And maybe Peel crag and Crag Lough.

Lornajkelly - on 13 Jun 2018
In reply to Andy Gamisou:

Bowden doors is lovely - my first lead was there. There's a few really nice, fun, easy routes.

If you're going to almscliff, consider low man easy way and the stewpot over fluted columns. Better gear (mostly).

If you're strong, nailbite in ilkley quarry is strenuous but very well protected 

didntcomelast on 14 Jun 2018
In reply to Andy Gamisou: Peel crab and Crag Lough May be a bit ‘steep’ for a beginner. I agree with Almscliffe lower man as a good choice. 

CurlyStevo - on 14 Jun 2018
In reply to Kat132:

This is superb Russet Groove (VD)#photos

also really rate this but its a bit more goey and a little harder to protect (need some larger hexes and cams and a little more of a steady head) Castle Crack (HVD)

CurlyStevo - on 14 Jun 2018
In reply to Kat132:

Berry Hill has a good selection of easier routes 

Berryhill

Kat132 on 18 Jun 2018
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

Some interesting places there that I haven’t been. Great, thank you. 

Kat132 on 18 Jun 2018
In reply to Andy Gamisou:

Really liked Bowden Doors and will head there again. Attempted to climb at Crag Lough last Autumn and when we arrived, the rain was horizontal! Will head there again. 

Kat132 on 18 Jun 2018
In reply to CurlyStevo:

Thank you for the link. This is a new venue for me 

tripehound - on 19 Jun 2018
In reply to didntcomelast:

> Peel crab and Crag Lough May be a bit ‘steep’ for a beginner. I agree with Almscliffe lower man as a good choice. 

Not as steep as Sandstone..

spenser - on 19 Jun 2018
In reply to Kat132:

There are some good routes at Crag Lough, however you definitely need to be careful of loose rock there. Scugdale is a lovely short crag on the North Yorks Moors, some routes have gear, some don't (it's really obvious what doesn't have gear opportunities).

machine on 16:33 Wed
In reply to Kat132:

Crag Lough, Peel Crag, Corbys Crag, Bowden, Kyloe, the list is endless. I would suggest purchasing a guide book like the north of England Rookfax guide by Chris Craggs which is a selected guide of some of the popular crags in the north of England. The good thing about this guide is that it tells you a bit about the route ie if its pumpy or scary and not well protected ect.