UKC

Just looking for a little injury advice, I’ve been climbing for about 6 months, and I can feel myself plateauing at v3/4 because of continuous issues with my DIP joints in my index, middle and ring fingers on both hands. I feel like the finger strength isn’t the problem, I hangboard with an open grip fairly well, can do pull-ups on a hang board without issue and actually really like a crimpy route, especially slab, but the joint strength doesn’t seem to be improving. 
 

since the issue started about 2 months ago I make sure I warm up including my fingers but still, after every session I wake up the next day with swollen achey DIPs. I’m holding myself back when I’m climbing now I’m fear of doing more damage than what I suspect is Capsulitis, from what I’ve read it’s manageable and it is if I don’t push myself, which I’m trying not to. I’ve rested until I’m feeling almost no ache and gone back easy but with the same outcome.

Is this fairly common and is the resolution to just keep at it, staying at a comfortable level and crimping less until the joint strengthens? 

In reply to Woodsie: capsulitis is caused by repeated stress to the joint so just doing more of the same won’t make this issue go away. check you’re not hyper extending your DIPs when crimping. Try to vary your grip and climbing style. If you’re over using the crimp grip this could be due to other factors like not trusting your feet or muscle imbalance in your shoulders. Perhaps consider  some technique coaching or just videoing yourself to see if you can pick up on things you are doing habitually that might be contributing? 

In reply to Woodsie:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/injuries/finger_care_for_climbers-14850
 

My advice - see a physio. My armchair opinion is that getting capsulitis after 6 months of climbing would be a bit of an odd one, as it’s an overuse injury that (as I understand it) usually manifests in climbers after climbing for long periods (like years/ decades) and/ or after excessive or intensive finger loading. Anyway, the article offers good advice but speak to a physio and would be best.