UKC

Looking to break out of the gym this year and start doing outdoor climbing. 

Blackford Quarry is fairly local to me, and I noticed it looks like its setup for top roping but I have a couple questions.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/blackford_quarry-3509/#photos&...

Route 3 here appears to have a ring bolted in at the top. I've attached a photo and circled where the rings are (terrible quality, wasn't expecting to upload these!).

To top rope, would you just climb up the back and loop the rope through the ring? Or carabiner into ring then rope?

Because of the ring placement, it looks like the rope would be rubbing against the rock. Would I use a rope protector?

Slightly lower, roughly where "route 2" is there are another couple rings, but they seems even "worse" placed in terms your rope rubbing at the rock. Have I misunderstood what these rings are there for? Also uploaded a picture of that from above.

There are actually 3 anchors at different places, each with 2 ring bolts. They are all easy to access by walking/scrambling up the gully/rib on the right.

To use them safely, you need to use some long slings to extend the anchor over the edge and equalise the load on the two bolts. You can then clip the rope into a carabiner at the bottom end of the sling(s), which should be below the edge. See here for how to do this: https://www.vdiffclimbing.com/anchors-equalize/ 

Spent many happy hours soloing there  while  at uni back in the sixties

You are/were braver than me, given the general snappiness of the rock! 

Appreciate the quick response and the link, that makes much more sense that what I'd imagined.

Looking at slings (for both this route and moving forward to sport climbing), what would you suggest would be a reasonable first purchase in terms of sizes? Seems 120cm is the most common, but you mentioning 'some long slings' makes me think a couple 240cm would be useful here? Happy to buy a few.

No problem! For the quarry, at least one 240cm sling is useful: that and a couple of 120cm ones would be fine. I normally carry 3 120cm ones for single pitch trad climbing: I have a couple of 240cm ones which mainly get used for scrambles, mountain routes and winter climbing as well as top rope rigging, but other folk will have different preferences! You will also probably want to get 3 or 4 screwgate carabiners. 

I'm local and happy to show you how to rig a top rope up safely, and I can show you where the best climbing in the quarry is!

Use long sling and and screwgates.

Personally I like using the big ass nylon slings for this situation, because even a well equalised sling can move and rub across the rock, and they seem to be more resistant to abrasion than the thin dyneema ones.

Obviously follow usual rules of setting up an anchor.

It can be a nice quarry on a good day, can feel very sheltered. But the rock can snap at any time.

Beware of NEDs and broken glass from buckfast bottles.

There is some decent bouldering nearby too (Agassi rock or sth like that)

That'd be great! Thank you. I'll drop you an email.

Good luck. Lived in the Hermitage in the 1980s when partner was Ranger. Scrambled and climbed here. Got shot at by guys with air rifles. Entertainment I suppose 😀

More like assault, I'd have thought.

Edinburgh's premiere climbing / rave venue

Hey! Did you end up going to the Blackford Quarry for top roping using the existing bolts? I know how to setup an anchor and have suitable slings (but don't have gear to place any additional protection). Could use some tips about where the bolts are and what routes they belong to!

I did. tlouth7 was an absolute gentleman and showed me the basics (though he's cost me a small fortune since on sport climbing gear and I've been visiting crags ever since).

There is only one "sport" route, and it is very very basic - the rest are setup for top rope.

I've circled roughly where they are, they're difficult to miss once you've gone up the ridge, though some are quite a bit away from the wall so I'd bring long slings with you. I personally didn't pay attention to formal routes and just climbed up in several different ways where the top rope anchors were.

I'd be happy to pay it forward and show you myself if that would be helpful - the next two weekends I will be away though (climbing!).

Thanks, this is fantastic and very useful! I have done the sport route but keen to explore the crag further as it's so close to home - possible to do some evening climbing after work. Very kind of you to offer to pay it forward but I think I'm good to climb!