Hello guys. Hoping for some advice on crampons and supposedly boots.
Basically hoping to get into winter hill walking and scrambling this winter However pretty inexperienced with winter conditions in the mountains. ( I will be going with some experienced people 1st few or more times )
Little list I have for next year is the likes of grib goch, blencathra, tryfan, hellevyan. Basically grade 1 scrambles.
What would be the best type of crampons for this grade of scrambling, and therefore type of boots as well?
I cannot see myself passing grade 2-3 scrambles for the foreseeable future
Have a look at the winter grades for those routes and you'll see quite a lot of variation. A grade 1 scramble in winter can be straightforward or it can become more complex and serious - it completely depends on the route. I found the north ridge of tryfan in winter as serious as curved ridge and a similar level of difficulty, despite curved ridge being a solid grade 3 scramble or even a moderate rock climb.
Get some steel c2 12 point mountaineering crampons, eg grovel g12 or bd sabertooth, and some lightweight B2 boots, eg Scarpa ribelle or Charmoz.
Find some boots that fit- then crampons that fit those boots- doesn't work the other way round!
And remember that you can use a C1 crampon on a B2 boot, but not a C2 crampon on a B1 boot!
Go to a decent shop that sells both boots and crampons - somewhere like Outside in Hathersage, or your local equivalent - and tell them what sort of stuff you want to do. Get them to help you find some boots, and then choose crampons to suit the boot.
> Get some steel c2 12 point mountaineering crampons, eg grovel g12
> I cannot see myself passing grade 2-3 scrambles for the foreseeable future
You're being realistic about what you'll be doing, which is good and means you don't need to over-spec the crampons. I recently got some new ones just for glacier approaches and easy snowy alpinism (and I was really trying to keep the weight down for the rock climbing). Something I hadn't taken into account was how light they could be and how neatly they could be packed for carrying (a revelation compared to my ancient ones).
I got some basic Petzl Arvis 10 points, which (a) were the ones that happened to fit my boots the best, and (b) slide closed and pack together really neatly (I have a bag and some packing sponge I can stick over the front points). If you are carrying them more often than wearing them this is important - and if they are no hassle you are more likely to actually have them with you when you need them.
Bloody autocorrect 🤣
Although saying that I find winter mountaineering generally involves quite a bit of grovelling.
I like the Grivel Airtech for winter scrambling along ridges. The points are a bit shorter so you don't find yourself tripping up so much and your walking gait will feel more natural.
Having said that, if you plan to progress to steeper snow and ice gullies then something like the G12 or Petzl Vasak are a good all round crampon.
French climber Seb Bouin has made the first ascent of a new 9b/+ at Pic Saint-Loup, France. The route is 50m in total and breaks down into a 9a+, followed by a Font 8A+ boulder problem. He has named the route Beyond Integral.