/ Dartmoor bouldering
Any recommendations on the area for a beginner boulder on Dartmoor. Requirements need to be accessible via road so I can park up and sleep, I don’t expect it to like Stanage as a walk in, or is it? Thanks
Closer than Stanage at Bonehill, Coombestone Tor, Hound Tor etc... More of a walk for Coombeshead Tor/Cuckoo Rock, Staple Tors and good stroll required for Fur Tor. Loads to go at.
Have a look at:
Down Tor sounds like it matches your needs- easy bouldering, short walk, you can park and sleep. Good pub as well.
Sounds just the ticket,ta
Down Tor is a good shout. Lovely area around burrator. Also Cuckoo Rock area is worth a look. Down Tor about 10min walk from carpark. Quiet, you're unlikely to see many (or any) other climbers. Great spot to bivi/camp. There's a guide on rustypeg.co.uk as well.
I'd suggest Bonehill Rocks. Two minute walk from the car park and some trad there too. Have fun!
As others have said, Bonehill has a tiny walk-in, good range of problems and there's a free campsite back-up the road opposite Haytor (or at least used to be?) with toilets etc.
If you've not climbed Dartmoor before, you'll want to bring tape and magical-skin-regrowing-cream as the rock is SHARP. Or "remarkably positive" if you're being optimistic.
There is no free campsite, There is a toilet block at the pay and display car park.
Wild camping is permitted on Dartmoor in CROW open access land, unlike much of England and Wales. However, staying in a motorhome / van overnight is technically against national park bylaws. It's not enforced, but please don't shit in the car parks.
Ah interesting - my only experience was getting there very late at night, in the dark so didn't bother pitching the tent, parking in the car park by the toilets, having a terrible nights sleep in the back of the car, then waking up and seeing in the "field" just outside the car park, loads of tents with families camping.
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