UKC

Extending Belay with GriGri when rappelling

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 Thomas J. W. 11 Jun 2024

Hi folks,

I've been using a tube for a while and got used to rappelling with it using a belay extension so I can have a 'third hand' on the break strand(s). Recently I switched to using a GriGri to belay. I wonder if any of you have experience/thoughts on using the GriGri with a belay extension to rappel? Cheers.

2
 nikoid 11 Jun 2024
In reply to Thomas J. W.:

I've never felt the need to use a third hand when abbing with a gri gri, so I've never tried it, but I suspect it will be make it more difficult to smoothly control the descent. Attaching the gri gri directly to the belay loop works fine and is very easy to control.  Keep it simple!

 Cheese Monkey 11 Jun 2024
In reply to Thomas J. W.:

I consider the assisted locking function of the grigri to be the back up

1
 cch0223 11 Jun 2024
In reply to Thomas J. W.:

As Grigri adds twist to the rope, it’s gonna twist the extension when you let go. I imagine it would do wired things to the prusik

9
 Alex Riley 11 Jun 2024
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OP Thomas J. W. 12 Jun 2024
In reply to cch0223:

Excellent point, thanks.

OP Thomas J. W. 12 Jun 2024
In reply to Cheese Monkey:

Thanks, just thought because the emphasis remains that one should not let go of the brake strand. Just wondering what people do in case they need both hands to fix something. I guess one can always tie it off ...

OP Thomas J. W. 12 Jun 2024
In reply to nikoid:

Thanks.

 Murcantile 12 Jun 2024
In reply to Thomas J. W.:

I recently saw something on this, sorry can’t find source. But basic premise was that you should not extend belay with grigri as it effects the leverage you have moving it away from the body!

Guess that means it could be harder to control descent and release

OP Thomas J. W. 12 Jun 2024
In reply to nikoid:

As said in reply to Cheese Monkey, just thought because the emphasis remains that one should not let go of the brake strand. Just wondering what people do in case they need both hands to fix something. I guess one can always tie it off ...

 jezb1 12 Jun 2024
In reply to Thomas J. W.:

Just tie and overhand in the brake strand as a catastrophe knot if you need to go hands free.

 john arran 12 Jun 2024
In reply to Thomas J. W.:

> Just wondering what people do in case they need both hands to fix something. I guess one can always tie it off ...

It would be simple to tie a knot but in practice a lot of people don't bother, and for good reason. The main danger of not holding the brake rope is of the grigri not locking up when loaded in a fall. This can happen in some circumstances, notably with a new, thin rope, a load which increases gradually rather than abruptly, and very little weight of rope below the device (e.g. when belaying from the ground). Once the grigri is already locked, this particular danger no longer exists. It then becomes a matter of making sure the device is not released accidentally, which would need either the lever to be snagged and pulled by some item of gear or clothing, or the weight released from the device and it not auto-locking again when reloaded. With a fair weight of rope below, this is highly unlikely, so many people will be happy sitting on a locked grigri without a backup while sorting out rope tangles and other issues.

Edit: To clarify that, when hanging on a locked grigri, it's far safer to keep it weighted and locked while you sort a problem out than unweighting it and perching on a small ledge, for reasons explained above.

Post edited at 08:20
 nikoid 12 Jun 2024
In reply to Thomas J. W.:

Yes as Jez says just tie an overhand to act as a jamming knot or go a step further and clip the bight back into your belay loop.

In a perfect world you shouldn't let go of the braking strand as you say, but it feels pretty safe if you do. Just be careful the grigri handle doesn't get fouled on something.

Another thing that hasn't been mentioned is the DMM Ceros crab is widely accepted as being a good match for the grigri.

 Neil Williams 12 Jun 2024
In reply to Thomas J. W.:

Probably shouldn't let go of the brake strand deliberately even with a prusik on it.  Prusiks can and do slip.  If you want to let go to fix something, tie a backup knot.

 spidermonkey09 12 Jun 2024
In reply to Neil Williams:

In the real world, though, its completely safe to let go of the grigri handle when abseiling on it 99% of the time and most people will do so if they're stopping for whatever reason, without tying a backup knot. 

3
OP Thomas J. W. 12 Jun 2024
In reply to john arran:

Thanks

In reply to Thomas J. W.:

Just wrap the brake rope round your thigh.

 CantClimbTom 12 Jun 2024
In reply to cch0223:

It's unpopular to say that GriGri adds twists - always seems to be downvoted here. GriGri makes 2*90 degree bends that are in different planes from each other. A friend of mine insists on using the daft thing every ******* time and if we have to ab (rappel ) in somewhere he always leaves my ropes in a twisty mess. He did that in Gaping Gill (dihedral) once and the rope was tied below (rebelay) and it made a hideous mess (but he didn't learn!)

If the rope twist can be ignored/managed (e.g. not constrained at the bottom, common for climbing scenarios) using a GriGi doesn't need a third hand/prusik or extending, so GriGri might be a solution for OP, without extending it!

Doing a lot of abseil (rappel) the only fancy pants extra is to consider using a Petzl Freino carabiner as it can help smooth the descent especially it a weight of rope below with the extra rope-brake bit to clip. Petzl recommend, but it's hardly ever done.

5
 CantClimbTom 12 Jun 2024
In reply to spidermonkey09:

99% safe?

For that 1% personally I'd tie an knot in rope below, any type will do..

Edit, which can be done easily without unweighting 

Post edited at 12:16
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OP Thomas J. W. 12 Jun 2024
In reply to Neil Williams:

Good point. For some reason I've always preferred a Klemheist over a Prussik (no idea why), but then again, I reckon a Klemheist too can slip.


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